akirby

You won't see maximum mileage until 5k or so. That said, you'll only get 18 if you drive the EPA cycle using their gas under their conditions. In other words there are far too many variables to accurately predict a specific person's fuel economy. If you do a lot of short trips, stop-n-go driving and/or hard acceleration then you'll get way less than 18. Your fuel blend also plays a part - 10% ethanol will drop around 2 mpg by itself.

The computer has been tested numerous times to be within 0.5 mpg - that's pretty accurate. Of course you must reset it at the beginning of the test.

I'm surprised by the seat comment - the Edge seats are some of the best available as reported by almost all owners and reviewers.

If you wire it directly to the battery then it will stay on until the battery dies. I think you meant that it was wired into a switched circuit that was only hot when the ignition was on. You can easily rewire or add a new outlet by finding a fuse in the fusebox that's hot only when the ignition is on and then tapping into it with a fusetap and connecting that to the old or new outlet.

Never hurts to ask, but I wouldn't count on it.

30 is fairly high - mine stays at 25 mph on my daily 11 mile commute - mostly 45-50 mph with several traffic lights and a couple of stop signs. It doesn't take much stop-n-go or idling at traffic lights to take a 50 mph average down to 25.

Every design is a compromise of something. That said, I just realized that my wife, who is 5'3" likes to have the vent blowing in her face so it's possible, but she has the seat up and back pretty far.

I'd be careful with the tire pressure - 41 is really high. 36-38 would be safer.

Have you tried moving the seat and steering wheel as far back as possible? I drove in 95 degree heat yesterday afternoon with no problems whatsoever, but I do have the seat pretty far back. I'm 5'11" so it shouldn't be that much different.

They're not available.

How would a 340 hp twin turbo 3.5l engine get better mileage than the same engine without the twin turbos? The 3.5L Ecoboost engine will get better mileage than a V8 that puts out the same power. It's not supposed to get better mileage than the NA version of the same engine.

Because you don't really need to watch the road while you're driving, do you?

Check tire pressure and make sure the transmission is in 6th gear (check the RPM). Are you sure you replaced the air filter with the correct replacement and it's clean? Are you using straight gasoline or an ethanol blend like E10/E30/E85? If none of those appear to be the cause I think you need to have it checked by the dealer.

The chrome clad wheels are steel underneath - it's more durable than trying to chrome plate aluminum and a lot lighter, too.

That is low - how are you measuring it?

Typically you do have to remove the intake manifold and sometimes other parts to get at the rear plugs. But you just said in another thread that you only have 20,000 miles - why do you want to replace the spark plugs?

Highly doubtful - those are normal wear items even at 20,000 miles. But it won't hurt to ask.

There is NO benefit to running 89 or higher in a vehicle designed to use 87. None whatsoever. What do you think will happen?

Those are not part of any Ford tow package that I've ever seen. You have to purchase those yourself. It only comes with the receiver hitch.

Why? You're just wasting that extra $0.10/gallon.

It's a bug - no other options work that way.

In addition to O/D lockout (which I think locks out 5th and 6th gear) you can use L. It provides engine braking, keeping the RPM around 4K-4.5K but still allowing gear shifts. Have not tried it on a mountain yet but it should help if 4th gear is too high.

Try another dealer - that isn't technically an alignment so I think your dealer is simply confusing the procedure and assuming it's the same as an alignment.

There is no evidence that Nitrogen expands less than Air (enough to make a difference) at normal tire temperatures and pressures. For racing applications where even a 1/4 lb makes a difference at drastically higher temps it might make sense. It's also true that nitrogen is less flammable than air due to the lack of oxygen, so it's used in airplane tires e.g. But again - not an issue with car tires. The only real benefit is that it reduces the slow leakage of air over time through the tire itself. As long as you keep the tire inflated properly it doesn't matter what's in it. Nitrogen will not improve your ride quality, fuel economy or tread life. But it won't hurt either.

It can but I thought the other poster was specifically referring to the extra width only.