akirby

How could that much rust build up in just 100 miles? I think it would have to sit for weeks in humid weather. Before taking it to the dealer - try a few hard stops from 50 mph or so.

Do those come from frogs?

I was talking about these being the first 20" chrome clad wheels that FORD has produced. The fact that Dodge had them already doesn't help Ford figuring out how to make them. I'm not a Ford employee, but I understand what goes on behind the scenes with these types of problems and it's a lot harder than most people realize. Yes, 6 months is a long time and Ford should have figured this out by now. No excuses.

This will happen if you park the vehicle on an incline and allow the transmission parking pawl to fully engage to stop it from rolling. It puts pressure on the pawl and it's hard to get it out. To avoid this engage the parking brake before removing your foot from the regular brake. If you're already doing this or it occurs on flat surfaces then it's probably the brake interlock as stated.

The airbags are tested every time the car starts. If they weren't working you'd get an airbag warning light. Sounds like it's working fine.

And BTW - there are a LOT of people who get the EPA mileage (sometimes more). In 2008 the EPA changed their test cycles to be more accurate and the advertised MPG dropped by a few mpg. Lots of good info here: http://www.fueleconomy.gov

The best way to test it is to try different weights and see if the light ever comes on. If not then something is wrong. That would be more productive than trying to figure out the programmed weight limit. Try a bag of sugar or flour or hand weights. The only danger I can see is if you have a small child (or dog perhaps) in the seat and it does NOT disable the airbags.

Power Takeoff Unit - sends power to the rear wheels. It has a seal which can leak.

I'm trying to be nice here but you're not helping. It's a well known scientific fact that the octane rating of gasoline only affects how quickly and easily it ignites. When the air/fuel mixture is compressed by the piston it's possible for it to spontaneously ignite before the spark plug fires. This is pre-detonation or knocking. The engine has a knock sensor and if it detects pre-detonation it will retard the engine timing to prevent it. When this happens both power and fuel economy are usually reduced. When an engine is tuned to run on premium it either has a higher compression ratio (or forced induction which has the same effect) or the timing has been advanced for more power and better fuel economy. If you run regular in a premium tuned engine the knock sensor will retard the timing to compensate and you lose fuel economy and power (best case) or (worst case) the engine cannot compensate and the pre-detonation damages the pistons. However, using premium in a car designed only for regular will not accomplish anything except to lighten your wallet, because the engine cannot take advantage of the higher octane by advancing the timing (compression ratio is almost always fixed). Some brands may use extra detergents in their premium fuel but they're just that - extra - and not needed since all fuel is required to have adequate detergent levels. So you're getting detergents and octane that you don't need and can't use. However, I have found no articles that state any specific damage that could be caused by using premium unnecessarily. So I don't know if that's true or not. If it is true then it's probably some rare case or requires very prolonged use and Ford is just doing a CYA with the owner's manual. You obviously have no clue about how the advertised fuel economy is calculated. It's done by the EPA - NOT by the mfrs. The EPA has a fixed test that they use for city and highway driving so that you get the same exact test for every vehicle. The test has certain parameters for how quickly the vehicle accelerates, how fast it goes and for how long, etc. This is the ONLY mpg figure the mfrs can advertise and again - they have NO CONTROL over the tests. This also means that unless you drive exactly the way the EPA does their test you won't get the same mileage. If you're getting 10 mpg in a car rated at 14 mpg then you can expect to get 10 mpg from ANY vehicle with a 14 mpg EPA rating. It's only for comparison purposes. Some people get way MORE than the EPA estimates. Maybe that's because there's no reason for you to know. You have no control over it and can't change it. What difference does it make whether it's 15 lbs or 30 lbs or 45 lbs? They don't publish every little spec detail, especially those that don't matter.

Whatever. I guess you're right based on your anecdotal, unscientific opinions and all of the engineers in the world who use scientific tests and measurements are wrong. If your engine knocks and doesn't perform well on regular gas then you've either got bad gas or there's something wrong with your engine.

Working fine for me right now. Could have been a temporary glitch.

Since when does dispelling myths with facts constitute bullying?

Premium has the same or more detergents as regular - that's always been the argument for using Premium over regular - it keeps you engine cleaner. Even regular gas has plenty of detergents today - it's federally mandated. Therefore the only practical difference is octane rating. And using premium in an engine designed for regular will not gain you anything - period. It's a scientific fact. Using regular in an engine designed for Premium will cause the timing to be retarded which will reduce power and fuel economy. But since you're a "professional", buddy, I guess you already knew that.

That is marketing BS. Higher octane won't help a normal engine unless it was designed for higher octane. And they no longer put more detergents in premium - all grades have sufficient detergents and one is not "cleaner" than another. Don't believe everything you read or see on TV.

The passenger airbag off light comes on when there is something in the passenger seat but it's not heavy enough to warrant the airbag (packages, dogs, etc.).

The point was there are certain times when you need chains and it doesn't matter whether you have FWD or AWD in those circumstances.

That's hard to do with a shifter that says PRNDL - there is no direct gear selection. You can select L which will increase the RPM and might give better response. But this isn't a transmission problem - it's the way the electronic throttle works.

AWD won't help if all of the wheels are on ice.

When the manual says "standard size" they're talking about the 17" tires, not the optional 18" or 20" tires. Which do you have?

You can't convert regular Itunes downloads, but you can convert your own ripped cds or Itunes plus. For regular Itunes downloads you can burn an audio cd then rip them back into Itunes. There is a convert to MP3 option in Itunes.

Nothing magic here - it works. Manual car washes have the same feature. It just softens the water so it doesn't leave any spots. I've also head of people using a leaf blower to get the excess water off.

That wasn't me - it was npggirl. Make sure the phone has the latest firmware and also make sure that Sync has the latest version (it should but you never know). Did you check the syncmyride forums?

I thought that was one of the big advantages of the new Nav system - that it was integrated with Sync.

Yes, it's an upgraded Nav system. In the 08 models Sync and Nav are separate so you have an extra step in voice recognition to tell it whether you want NAV or Sync control.

I thought you were implying that Ford didn't know how to do it and the Germans did. I don't know why they chose not to add it. Sounds like a project for Lex.......