akirby

Or you can find another dealer that knows how to fix the problem. It's a shame there are so many incompetent dealers out there.

It's really only useful for holding a particular gear (higher or lower). Makes it more fun if you're in the twisties or lets you prevent downshifts for better fuel economy. It is not a replacement for a manual.

The seat filter is underneath each seat - just reach under from behind. It's about the diameter of a baseball. $28 at the dealer, IIRC.

The wiring for the shifter is not there and even if it was, there is no compatible PCM software version for the 06-09 models. You CAN potentially add this to a 2010 model that didn't come with it by swapping out the shifter and getting a PCM reflash. This was possible on the Lincoln LS which was the first to offer SelectShift back in 1999. But it depends on whether the wiring is there in the non selectshift models.

Try to pay attention this time: 60 is not a normal temperature setting. It's for MAX cooling - when you first get in the vehicle on a hot day and you want it to cool as fast as possible. Same with 90 - Max heat. They made a gap so you can differentiate between regular thermostat settings (65-85) and the MAX settings (60, 90). And I don't know anyone who wants it colder than 65.

The length of the nozzle, not the hose.

No, but now that you've mentioned it I'm sure Lex will jump right on it! :shades:

Windshield damage is usually covered under the comprehensive part of your policy, not collision.

Apparently I was wrong and while I still don't quite understand the concept, I'll yield on this one. Carry on.

Ok, one more time. Yes, the expansion of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber when it ignites does generate the exhaust pressure (along with some help from the piston compressing the exhaust mixture on the upstroke). So I'll agree with you from that standpoint. However, once the exhaust reaches the turbo, it's the velocity of the exhaust that determines how fast the turbo spins and therefore how much it compresses the incoming air. If you have 10 psi at 40 CFM coming into the turbo then you'll get the same output regardless of whether the incoming exhaust is 400 degrees or 32 degrees. And exhaust velocity is dependent on volume and friction. The smoother the pipes and the less obstructions (bends, mufflers, etc.) the faster the exhaust will flow. But changing the pipe diameter also changes the velocity - smaller makes it go faster and larger makes it go slower. Temperature is one factor that affects volume, so from that standpoint cooling the exhaust will reduce the volume slightly but it's not the only factor.

Because that's what one does when you have a problem that's covered by the factory warranty - you let the dealer fix it. If it's anything other than a loose connection then you'll have to take it back to get it fixed anyway.

The temperature and pressure of the exhaust is based on the initial combustion. Once that leaves the cylinder it's the velocity of the exhaust stream that determines how fast the turbo impeller turns and therefore how much compression is achieved on the intake side. The point was that it's the velocity of the exhaust that turns the turbine and not the heat from the exhaust. You can get the same power from the turbo given a fixed exhaust velocity regardless of the heat of the exhaust.

One last time - heat does not turn the turbo. Air velocity turns the turbo. There is more exhaust velocity close to the engine than there is at the tailpipe. Heat and exhaust velocity are both by-products of combustion. And it doesn't make the engine burn fuel more efficiently - it simply provides more air and therefore more oxygen which produces more power. Overall it might be more efficient at certain speeds but that's not the goal. The goal is more power.

No, it's the force of the piston pushing the exhaust out of the exhaust valves and into the exhaust manifold that generates the energy to spin the turbo. The exhaust gas is at it's hottest in the cylinder when it ignites. In this case heat is the byproduct of the force that generates the energy - it's not the source.

18 yr olds with phones and text messages.............

Of course it does - how else would Sync be able to dial 911? It's a tradeoff. With OnStar you have a built-in cell phone that requires a separate number. You can't upgrade the phone. Those who bought older OnStar vehicles were stuck with an analog cell phone that couldn't be upgraded. 911 calls don't go to the local emergency center. A crash could just as easily knock out the OnStar phone or antenna. The advantage with Sync is you don't need a separate phone or phone number. You can upgrade your phone and service and use any service provider you want. And it works with ANY passenger's cell phone in any Sync equipped vehicle. It's not a foolproof safety feature and neither is OnStar. But it would certainly work in most accident situations.

I believe RSC is only on SUVs and CUVs and uses an extra sensor to gauge the roll. You don't need it in a car.

You're just not activating it. You'd have to either be on a very slippery surface (ice, snow, gravel) or driving very aggressively. Or both.

ABS sensor.

Where has Ford not been responsive? Trying but being unable to permanently fix the problem is a different thing. I also think this only affects a small number of vehicles mainly in colder climates and I think the problem is that the field techs cannot perform the repair procedure adequately. From the TSB description it sounds difficult.

It's working properly. Don't sweat it.

Double post.

I've only heard of a couple of wheel bearing replacements, but not the other 3 problems. My guess is they misdiagnosed the problem the first time. Hopefully they'll get it right this time.

$2660 off msrp plus the rebates sounds like a decent price. We chose the White Chocolate (might be a different name now but same basic color) over the Vapor Silver. It's probably even lower maintenance than the silver and looks great. It's a tri-coat finish and the depth is amazing. You don't need special skills to take care of a black car - you just have to use the right equipment and technique, and you'll have to wash it more often. Use car soap (not dishwashing soap) and rinse the car thoroughly to remove as much dirt and dust as possible (top down). NEVER use a sponge. NEVER. That is what leaves the spiderweb scratches you see so often. NEVER let the dealer wash it - they typically use sponges or other improper tools that leave tiny swirls and scratches. Avoid the cheap car washes - have it washed by hand at a good shop or use the high end car washes that use soft cloth strips. This is usually where the expensive cars go. Use a wool mitt (or I've heard microfiber towels work, too). The idea is to remove the bad stuff and keep it off the surface of the mitt or towel so it doesn't get rubbed into the paint. Rinse OFTEN. Do not use a chamois or towel to dry it unless you have to. Mr. Clean makes a rinse system that softens the water so you don't get water spots. Use clay bars to remove surface contaminants and put a good protective finish on it at least twice a year - 4 times would be better. Some people swear by Zaino, others prefer good carnauba wax. They all protect the finish. Lots of good info at www.meguiars.com.

Ditto for people who ask questions that are easily and obviously answered in the owner's manual. If you're too lazy to get the OM out of the glove box and read it or look it up online, then why should I waste my time doing it for you? That was a general comment and not directed at any one in particular.