akirby

If you press the horn button and you get a horn sound then it's normal.

Could have been a temporary electrical glitch. If there are no codes and it's working now there's not much else they can do. Next time it happens, pull over and turn the vehicle off and restart it and see if that fixes it.

They'll have the same style grill but they're different sized vehicles.

Nope - it's the MKX.

It can't be accidental - every new vehicle I've ever bought came that way. At least all the Ford products did.

Clarification - edmunds, kbb, etc. dealer invoice does include the destination charge (or it's at least shown). What they don't include is the FDAF (advertising) charge. This is a legitimate charge from Ford to the dealer and covers local advertising. It varies based on the vehicle and geographic area so edmunds or kbb can't possibly know what it will be for you specifically. It typically runs around $400, so adding $400 plus the destination charge to the edmunds/kbb dealer invoice price will be really close.

And still no update with successful repair stories on smokinedge.com. Real classy, Gary.

Hasn't bothered me in the last year + and we had 2 explorers, an expedition and an aviator.

With or without rebates?

The reviews on all the new 2010 Ford models have been very positive about the braking performance.

Try another dealer - it depends on the skill level of the tech and how closely they follow the procedure. I'd give them one more try, especially if you can try a different dealer.

Go to edmunds.com or kbb.com and figure out the dealer invoice price. Add $600 to cover the advertising fees that Ford adds to the dealer invoice and that would be the low end of the good price scale. $500 more would be the top end unless there is a shortage of Edges at the dealer right now. If you're serious - call the sales MANAGER and ask for a final price. Make sure you ask about the documentation fee - that can add several hundred and it's totally negotiable.

Obviously yes or there wouldn't be a TSB. This is a fairly common repair on newer vehicles. Sensors fail sometimes, even new ones.

So it's A plan but the dealer still charges their normal admin fee (doc fee). When Ford does this they usually lower the incentives so the end result is the same price out the door as before but they can advertise "employee pricing" so it sounds a lot better. In some cases the OTD price does drop some but again this is simply in lieu of bigger rebates.

Your facts are totally incorrect as many of us have tried to point out. I give up. Enjoy your alternative reality.

RWD tends to oversteer in slippery conditions. Recovering from oversteer requires opposite steering input and sometimes throttle modulation. Lifting off the throttle in RWD can make oversteer worse (ask 911 owners). FWD tends to understeer. Recovering from understeer only requires lifting off the throttle and/or applying the brakes. Lifting off the throttle helps reduce understeer. Which is why engineers always try to tune the suspension for mild understeer in normal vehicle - anybody can lift off the gas or touch the brakes but most people can't recover from the back end stepping out. Stability control can avoid both situations by braking one or more wheels individually to correct the understeer or oversteer situation. This can't be duplicated by a human since the brake pedal cannot brake only one wheel at a time. AWD (whether it's FWD based or RWD based) simply increases traction opportunities by sending torque to all 4 wheels (potentially). There is absolutely nothing inherently dangerous about FWD/AWD vehicles in adverse roadbed condtions. Any problems that would affect a FWD/AWD vehicle would affect a RWD vehicle the same or worse. Your theories are sheer uneducated speculation with no basis in real world experiences or physics. I apologize for breaking my own suggestion to ignore him, but I needed to get this off my chest one time.

It's an option in the radio menu. Read the owner's manual - it's all in there.

Just ignore wwest. He's not worth the effort.

Same principle - put the fan on high and the temp control on max cold.

Turn the auto hvac down to 60 degrees, roll down the windows for a couple of minutes, then roll them back up. You don't need to do anything else. You don't need to rewire your compressor or replumb the heater lines. Slowing down the fan so the air spends more time moving through the coils is ridiculous. Put it on high and forget it.

I just meant they are doing more than just "trying" to fix them - it appears they have fixed the problem on several vehicles including some that were done last year. The only question is whether the dealer can properly implement the repair. I understand the repair process is complicated, especially compared to other typical repairs, so it's understandable to some degree.

They have fixed the problem, but the repair procedure is complicated and a lot of dealers are not capable (or willing) to perform the repair correctly. Unfortunately this gets interpreted as "Ford can't fix my problem". I don't have an issue with posting repair horror stories as long as all the facts are included. But when you only post the very worst stories and you never post the successful repairs (including your own) or other facts then you're nothing but a troll with a web site.

Figure the cost of a new similar vehicle at dealer invoice minus rebates, then price out a similar 2008 model. Take 1/3 of the difference and add it to the 2008 model. That should get you in the ballpark.

No. Do you work for Toyota?

The fact that you continue to sign your posts "Smokin Edge" when that is no longer true says a lot. You're just an internet basher with an axe to grind and you won't let the truth get in your way.