akirby

Or you could call it peace of mind like everyone else. Seriously though - you might want to get the oil checked if it looked that bad after 3k unless you've been running high rpm or high temps.

Snake oil. Won't protect any better than a regular wax or protectant on the paint and you don't need or want anything to protect the leather - just a good cleaning and conditioning periodically. The dealer is more likely to screw up the paint applying it.

5K seems to be the minimum with some going to 7500, 10K or even higher with full synthetic. That won't stop the dealers from putting 3K stickers on your windshields (drives me nuts).

It is a waste of money and perfectly good oil. It won't hurt anything on the Edge but be aware that some vehicles may come with a special break-in oil or special additives that need to be left in for some period of time so make sure you check the owner's manual before doing this on a new vehicle. Engines don't burn oil like they used to and they don't have "metal shavings" from the factory any more. Ford factory oil is a synthetic blend and changing oil 2.5 times more often than recommended is just wasting good oil (forget about the cost).

There aren't enough watts per channel to worry about. Just get some good aftermarket speakers (Infinity and Polk Audio are my recommendations). They're just cheap paper cone speakers that can be easily upgraded.

This is an after the sale, mfr rebate. The fact that most dealers give you credit for it at the time of sale doesn't change that fact so you pay taxes on the sale price, then you get the rebate. That's just how it works. If it was a mfr's discount then that would come off the purchase price. It's really simple.

In GA you pay tax on the purchase, then the incentives are deducted so yes, you pay tax on the rebate because it is a REBATE from the mfr after the sale, not a discount, even though the dealer gives it to you as a discount. The dealer is correct (in GA at least).

What did they do with the rebates? Typically they just replace the rebates with the employee pricing so the net result is almost the same.

Doesn't matter if it's Castrol or Motorcraft - using 5W30 is wrong wrong wrong and could void the warranty. That dealership needs to cease and decist with the incorrect viscosity.

According to a former Ford tranny engineer - almost anything other than long highway driving is severe. He recommends 30K service. Other Ford engineers say 150K is just fine. Personally I'd do either 30K or 60K based on your comfort level. It's cheap insurance.

Call Ford and report it. That could have serious warranty implications for Ford. I'm sure they won't put up with that.

It's not tied to the brakes at all - it's tied to vehicle speed. When you speed up the volume increases. When you slow down it decreases. Just hitting the brake won't do it unless you also slow down.

That is a 2 yr old post. Doubtful the OP is even still here.

To what purpose?

Doesn't sound right to me. If they're leaking oil then they should be replaced but that wouldn't normally be described as "sweating". It's possible at 30K if you have really bad roads but I'd get a second opinion.

Did you turn bluetooth on? It was probably reset to off with the upgrade.

Get an upholstery shop to fix it for you.

Expect 20%-25% worse fuel mileage, which will certainly eat up any savings per gallon. The biggest issue with a conversion kit is that you need new PCM programming to adjust the timing to compensate for a variable octane rating from 87 to over 100. The rest is just swapping materials to be ethanol resistant. It's very hard and not really worth it. Why isn't Ford doing more of it like GM? See previous statement. And the same reason Ford didn't copy GMs 100K mile, 5 yr warranty.

Put down the seat and see if it goes away. Then check the seat belt buckle. Also, check the cupholder on the armrest and the doors for loose debris.

You'd think they would deactivate at night (using the dash sensor). I can just see someone thinking their lights are on when it's just the DRLs (no taillights). Then again I don''t like DRLs or think they're necessary in the first place.

The headlight switch has 4 positions (L to R) - Auto, Off (straight up), Parking lights only and On. Make sure the switch is in the OFF position and the lights will not come on. If that doesn't work do you have DRLs? Perhaps there is is something with the DRL logic that turns them on even if the switch is off.

Make sure it's not just a loose sun visor. Happens to me all the time and every time I think the rattle is coming from somewhere else, then I remember to check the visor.

Disconnecting might reset it. Here's something to do that will fix the problem on your trip: Notice the thing on the dash with an E on the left and F on the right. When the pointer gets close to E stop and fill up. Seriously though - your trip mileage will probably be a lot higher than what you've been getting recently therefore the DTE calculation will be much more pessimistic, at least for the first 500 miles or so.

Wow - you are correct. No mention of time, just mileage. Personally, I'd change it every 6 months or 5,000 miles just to be safe.

First, I don't work on these cars (except my own occasionally). Doesn't sound like YOUR VHR is working properly so take it in and get it fixed. As Lex stated - you can get the codes read for free at most auto parts stores and it is still my understanding that a VHR will read stored PCM codes and translate them for you in the report. That doesn't mean it will DIAGNOSE the problem - any more than the auto parts store or some web site can diagnose it just from the stored code.