akirby

Priority 10 is very good IIRC - the lower the better. But that's the priority within all the dealer's orders. If the dealer doesn't have allocation then it won't be built and that's the tough part because dealers don't want you to know that they have an allocation problem. I wish Ford would use the retail verification process which bypasses dealer allocations for pre-sold retail vehicle orders and prioritizes them in production. It seemed to work well with the Fusion Hybrid.

Those are all typos. The 2010 is 265 hp. The 2011 bumps it to 285.

Big Ass Moon Roof (really - that's what the engineers called it)

Sorry - forum confusion. I would call Ford to be sure - I can't believe they would sell remote start factory kits that don't have a bypass.

Check with Ford. According to this online retailer Ford makes a PATS interface kit for the 2010 Fusion that goes with the Ford remote start kit. http://www.partscheap.com/2010_Ford_Fusion_Remote_Start_Systems_p/8l3z-19g365-ba-f10.htm

It probably works as advertised but won't deliver much real benefit - if any. All it can do is simulate you pressing the pedal more quickly - it won't bypass the computer programmed delays.

1 - depends on where you tap in. If you tap in before the fuse, yes. If you tap in after the fuse, no, because the original fuse will still protect the circuit. OTOH - it certainly won't hurt to add another one either way. I'd get one of the fuse tap kits that use an existing fuse - no need to tap into existing wires. 2 - single fuse should be fine - just make sure you're the total amperage of the lights doesn't exceed the fuse rating. 3 - no. that's only when you have a sensor involved (to tell you the lights are not working)

There are TONS of actual mileage comparisons at fueleconomy.gov. Just go compare the fuel economy of vehicles with and without E85 and you'll see that it's almost universally a 25% reduction. it's all physics since the rest of the car remains the same. The point about GM's financial situation is that maybe they aren't the best role model when it comes to automotive decisions such as to make lots of flex fuel vehicles. It certainly hasn't helped them remain solvent up to this point. E85 is not the savior.

I think the plan was to make it standard with the 2011 models but I haven't seen that in writing yet.

More sound deadening and a longer warranty also.

Almost any car would be the same after only 4 months. Remember - you bought retail but when you trade it in you're selling it wholesale. You could probably get close to $25K selling it yourself.

Yes - for years. Works great. Edit - it's Mother's back-to-black, not Meguiars.

Last year's Edge AWD got 17/23 also, so it's the same but with 40 more hp. For comparison, the Buick Enclave gets 16/22 in AWD trim with 15 less HP. You can't compare FWD and AWD.

Exactly! Because most people don't realize that the dealer gets a spiff check from Ford for each x plan sale - a few hundred bucks if I remember correctly. So ask yourself why the dealer would turn down a guaranteed $400 check from Ford unless they were planning to make more than that somewhere else in the deal. If it doesn't make sense then it probably isn't true. (Judge Judy rocks!)

Open the glove box and pull out the owner's manual. Every spec you'd ever need for the car is in there. Try reading it once just for fun. If you don't have it or can't find it, they're available here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp And just so you know - the factory oil is a 5W-20 synthetic blend so you wouldn't be going back to regular oil but you should go back to the factory 5w-20. 5w-30 is not "better for the car".

It's called rail dust and can be removed with a clay bar. It shouldn't damage the paint if you remove it correctly.

Sounds like a stuck caliper of master cylinder. It sticks, causing the hard pedal, then it unsticks before returning to normal.

The X plan price includes EVERYTHING except tax, tag and registration. Delivery, FDAF, fuel surcharge, etc. are already figured in and do not get added to the X plan price.

Actually the x plan price is now 0.4% below actual dealer invoice PLUS $275. Your $32K invoice estimate is wrong. If you're using edmunds or kbb.com then you have to add about $500 to cover the FDAF fees that are part of the actual dealer invoice which X plan is based on. If X-plan is $33,340 then true dealer invoice is around $32,900. Remember that with X plan you can't be charged more than $75 doc fee. Without X plan doc fees can be as high as $400 or more. If there was dealer cash then that would most likely be available to x plan buyers in the form of additional rebates. Beware of any offer below invoice - they're making it up somewhere. There is no reason for them to sell one below invoice.

It has to be a marketing decision rather than a technical decision but nobody knows. You can see all the options at the edge website. The other more likely explanation is they're trying to limit sport sales for CAFE reasons. I've seen it before.

Limited only.

Probably meant FEM - front end module. I think that's just another term for the SJB. Sounds like they just rebooted it.

Try swapping fuses 7 and 8 and see if the problem moves from the left to the right. That would be the most logical explanation. Otherwise it looks like there is no relay in the power distribution box - it must all be in the smart junction box.

The relays are in a plastic box under the hood. There should be a diagram in the owner's manual.

Why on earth would change your oil every 2500 miles? How many months is that? You shouldn't need to touch the trans fluid until at least 30K. Some go 60K or 100K.