akirby

That post was 10 months ago.

What does the owner's manual say about turning it off and on?

While the OS may still be microsoft I believe Ford did 100% of the UI coding as well as the applink interface.

Exactly. No word on whether the hardware upgrade can be done retroactively and it's also possible Apple will reverse it's position on allowing it without the hardware chip over the next few months. http://www.motorauthority.com/blog/1044357_ford-sync-applink-voice-control-hates-iphone-loves-blackberry-android

Yes I have an iPhone 3Gs. Actually what happened is Apple doesn't want to allow apps to connect to other devices unless they have some type of authentication chip (not sure about the details other than it's a chip in the hardware device). Sync doesn't have it now but will in a few months. At that point iPhone apps can connect to the car and control infotainment functions and access other info. Other smart phones can do it now (or whenever that feature is allowed in mytouch). I think it's a really smart move - letting all these smartphone app developers do it their way. The possibilities are enormous.

What would Ford have to do with the trade-in value? That is strictly between the dealer and the buyer. I'm guessing you meant the dealer when you said Ford. Anybody who trades in a 1 year old vehicle is going to lose their shirt in depreciation. That's just the way the market works.

I wasn't questioning it - I had just not heard it before. Actually I had not heard anything about the UI code or platform. Maybe that's why Apple doesn't want iPhone apps to interface with MyTouch yet. (that was a joke - it has to do with the hardware itself).

Source?

One was probably the crankshaft sensor.

You obviously don't know wood. Veneer is real wood. It's just a thin layer on top of cheaper, more stable wood or other material. Veneer is usually stronger than a solid piece of wood and less likely to warp. You're talking about real wood versus fake wood. The real wood in most vehicles requires SO much varnish to protect it that it sometimes ends up looking more fake than the fake wood. With todays technology and the high varnish requirement it's easy to mistake real wood for fake and vice versa.

I've heard it can be a little slow and there might be a few bugs still to work out. No hardware problems reported so nothing that can't be fixed with a user initiated sofware upgrade - probably within a few months.

What usually happens is some dealer gets upset and complains - probably because they lied to the customer about the order and got caught on it. Or a customer complains to Ford about their order using this info. The problem is the ordering system is setup for dealers, not customers. Ford has to walk a fine line with customers because ultimately the dealers are their customers and they're limited by franchise laws as to what they can do. People point to Amazon and being able to get exact status on their order including delivery info but that's not the right analogy. The analogy is you order a Sony TV from Amazon and they have to order it from the factory in japan. Now you go and call the factory in Japan wanting to know when your TV will be shipped and where it is. That part of the business is not setup to handle customer inquiries about TVs that they manufacture and ship to Amazon. It would be nice if we could order directly from Ford - then it would be a whole different ballgame. But unless you can convince the lawmakers in all states to repeal the antiquated auto dealer franchise laws it won't happen.

And that was precisely my point. I don't doubt the rotors were "warped" - whether they were deformed or had extra pad material or had debris on them and that they pulsated and the dealer had to turn them. But if he lost braking power then it was some other problem - not the brakes "suddenly" warping.

Outside of the EXTREMELY rare situation where your rotors are overheated (which should never happen in the first place) and you throw COLD water on them, brakes do not "suddenly warp". Is that better? Besides, in the beginning you stated that "brakes are pulsating" and "all 4 rotors re-cut". You never once mentioned sudden warpage or brake failure in your first post. That came later. Rotors do warp (or appear to be warped) and recutting the rotors will fix it. It doesn't affect stopping ability. Therefore I (and others) think you're being a little overdramatic. That's not being rude - it's just being honest. I'm not saying you don't have problems and that you shouldn't be upset. But you don't have to make it sound like it's a deathtrap over a few rattles and some bad electronics and a warped rotor. I think you should be more upset at your dealer for lying to you and failing to fix problems repeatedly and not filing the correct paperwork with Ford.

Not that it's any of your business but I do own an Edge. Your brake story still doesn't add up. You say that very hot brakes doused with cold water can cause sudden warpage, yet you admitted there was no water present when yours "suddenly warped". That doesn't make sense. And even if they warped, it wouldn't cause a loss of braking power like you described. I'm not trying to belittle your problems but I think most of your problems are being caused by a bad dealer who doesn't know what they're doing and they're probably feeding you false information about the brake problem. I told you twice you need a new dealer but you ignored that. I don't like to see misinformation posted and I don't like to see Ford blamed for a dealer problem. And if you truly want to get your vehicle fixed rather than bitch about it on the internet then maybe you would listen a little more and stop being so defensive.

Sounds like the torque converter locking. If so it's normal.

The "factory" windshield goes in the same way a replacement windshield goes in. There should be no difference. I think the point here is simply to allow the damage to be repaired and then inspect it and determine if you want to accept it or not. This is still cosmetic damage that shouldn't affect it assuming the repair is done correctly. And it will be covered by the warranty. If it just bothers you knowing about it then go get another one. The other point is that even a new one could have had this type of repair at the factory and you'd never know it.

I didn't say that you didn't have a brake problem. I guess they don't teach reading comprehension in trooper school. First you say the brakes warped and you lost braking effectiveness. Then you say that it can be caused by really hot brakes getting wet and cooling too quickly - which you also admit didn't happen. So we're back to some other braking problem, not suddenly warping rotors which is what I meant when I said "something else is wrong". You need a new dealer that can accurately diagnose and fix the problems the first time.

Look in the manual for the entertainment system and see if there is a separate equalizer setting other than the normal bass adjustment. Look for settings like "rock" or "classical" or "jazz" or "news". Other than that I'd do the comparison with a new one like I suggested. That's the only way to really tell if it's working normally.

There really isn't a way to check or change it other than to listen to it. If it passes the speaker test then it should be working. You said you checked the bass levels. What about DSP modes? Turn the bass all the way up and you should hear something. If not then go back to the dealer and compare it to a new one. That will tell you if it's normal or not. Factory systems will not put out the type of bass that you'd get from an aftermarket sub so it's possible your expectations are a tad too high.

Since when is theft a matter of opinion? You're no better than a shoplifter. Asking questions on a public forum on how to steal software is stupid to begin with.

Brakes don't "suddenly warp" and it doesn't affect stopping when they do. Either something else is wrong or you're overdramatizing. Sounds like most of your problems are caused by the dealer not making repairs correctly or not even trying. It happens. Find a new dealer before you give up.

Not for the 2010 model - but have you looked at the 2011? WAY better.

Oil life has nothing to do with the proper oil level so I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Too little or too much oil are both really bad for your engine. The dipstick is the only accurate measure.

Which is exactly why you should trust the stick and NOT the book. The book doesn't know how much oil you left in the engine when you drained it or any other changes that may have occurred. The dipstick goes directly into the crankcase. There is no other way to accurately measure the oil level.