akirby

From previous discussions the difference seems to be M12 vs M14 nuts. M14s are 162 lb/ft. You’re an old Ford engineer - would you follow the factory recommendation on engine bolts?

So you think Ford just changed it for fun? I believe the reason is they use larger studs on some wheels with larger nuts and they do need more torque. It's not like there is some benefit to going way below the recommended torque such as ride quality. I'd get as close to the factory spec as possible.

Are you sure that was Ford? Sometimes those things are dealer sponsored and operated.

Not even close.

The difference is either in the actual Octane rating vs advertised and/or amount of ethanol.

No it won't. They'll just adjust production to match the new lower demand (if that were to actually happen).

Ecoboost engines seem to have a wider range of mpg depending on how you drive it. NA engines seem to have a much narrower range and is less sensitive. What that means is it's easy to achieve close to EPA test mpg in the real world under the right conditions but it's also easier to get worse mpg than a NA engine. There was also an issue with the first gen ecoboosts where the cylinder heads ran hot and that required the engine to run richer than normal and that hurt fuel economy. The 2nd and 3rd gen engines don't have that problem. Our 2016 MKX has the 3.7L. My F150 has the 3.5LEB. I'm averaging 21-22 mpg in mixed driving. Our MKX is also averaging 21-22 in the same situation. But my truck has about 200 more lb/ft of torque in a much heavier and less aerodynamic vehicle. The 2.0LEB delivers better low end torque (had it in an Escape and a Fusion) and I prefer that to the NA 3.7L in normal driving. You get much better performance off the line without having to rev the engine really high.

I thought so but I wasn't 100% sure.

You’re usually safe with the OEM sizes but the ST brake rotors might require larger wheels. Base ST is 245/50R20 without the brake package so that would be safe and would have a lot more options. You might be able to get away with 245/60R18s like the SE but you’d need to double check brake clearance.

Consider it cleaned.

Ok, so I'm just going to say this one more time and then I'm going to start deleting posts. If YOU think that the safety benefits are worth the cost and you don't mind spending the money, great. That doesn't mean other people feel the same way and their opinions are just as valid as yours because the probability of being in a serious accident is very very low. It just comes down to what is more important to each person. Now please let's leave it at that and move on.

They still work just fine 95%+ of the time. Even higher in areas that aren't growing fast.

The facts are simple. Buying a new vehicle every 3 years (whether you purchase or lease) is THE most expensive option. Always. In return you get the latest gadgets and safety tech and a full warranty. Buying a used vehicle and keeping it as long as possible is always the cheapest. But you have to do more maintenance and more repairs and you miss some newer technology. Which one is best is an individual decision based on what’s important to you. There is no right or wrong here.

Actually Ford has never mentioned the ST and Sport at the same time. Nor should they.

Interesting. A bad batch of solenoids would explain some of the problems at least.

The difference is usually octane - 93 vs. 87. If the transmission was working correctly the ST might have a slight advantage, but currently the ST is probably the same speed if not slower.

Aftermarket parts do not void the warranty. If the part causes a failure they may not cover that particular failure but the warranty itself is still intact.

Using your logic you could have bought a different vehicle that’s even safer with better crash scores and a higher IIHS safety rating if you think it’s really that important.

Whatever makes you feel better.

I think you’re overstating the safety benefit, statistically speaking. You don’t need to justify your decision to buy new unless you’re just trying to justify it to yourself. In the end it comes down to money and how much you’re willing to spend (or not spend). Neither position is wrong. Can we just leave it at that and move on?

So what would you do differently if you found particles?

Hard to see, but underneath the filter is a plastic pan maybe 6" x 8". That pan has a drain hole and a tube that extends down several inches and acts as a funnel. You just put the pan under the funnel, remove the filter and let it drain in place. Works great.

This debate is silly. It’s always cheaper to buy a used vehicle - the older it is the cheaper it is. It’s also more worn out, more expensive to fix, has outdated electronics, little or no warranty, can be harder to get parts, etc. It all depends on what is more important to you. If you prefer driving newer vehicles and you can afford it then great. If you prefer to buy older ones to save money, great. Neither position is wrong.

Because the plug seals inside the pan, it’s very easy to modulate the amount of oil that comes out by how far out you pull the plug. I was able to change my F150 oil without getting any on my hand or anywhere else on the truck or the garage floor. Very easy and very convenient. It also has a built in drain for the oil filter (3.5LEB) which also makes it a breeze to change.