akirby

Stop exaggerating already. It's an infotainment problem, not a brake issue. It seems to only be affecting a small percentage of vehicles. It sucks for those that have problems and Ford totally screwed up but they seem to be doing everything possible to fix it. Why not focus on the solution and provide information to others on what works and what doesn't and who's getting updated and when. That might actually be useful information.

Folks - we now have active moderators. If you see offensive or disruptive posts just hit the Report button.

Of course there are many, but many appears to be one out of several hundred, not every single one.

This is what we've been trying to tell SOME people but all they want to do is bitch and moan and accuse Ford of doing the wrong thing.

Please stick around. The conspiracy theorists will be taken care of one way or the other in a few weeks.

Please explain - what did they redirect and where? The dealers now have new software to upload if that's your problem. It it's a hardware problem then that's a different story. Stop with the conspiracy theories.

That was absolutely true - the fix wasn't available to all dealers until very recently. And it won't affect their warranty numbers because those vehicles will eventually be brought in for warranty repair. This is a terrible situation but it's not as widespread as some would have you believe and it's definitely no scam. Stuff happens and it's taking longer to fix than it should. I wonder if people would be bitching so loudly if it was a normal engine or transmission problem?

Just stop. It's not a scam. Once they found out about the problem they did put a shipping hold on new vehicles until they could be updated. They would not have shipped any vehicles if they knew that a large number of MFTs would be inoperable. And they've been working diligently to come up with a fix. You can certainly blame their testing, quality control, communication to dealers and dealer preparedness to deal with this problem but don't exagerrate just because you're upset. And posting the same thing over and over in different topics is getting old. At least confine your rants to one topic.

I did say "slight" but it's good that you have a tire gauge now. Be sure to check them monthly at least and any time the ambient temp changes a lot. And don't forget the spare.

It's hard to compare prices because incentives can vary but more importantly you don't know what type of deal other people got on their trade-ins. A dealer will adjust the price of the new vehicle up or down to compensate for the trade-in price. Local demand also affects price - some vehicles sell better in some areas which affects the price. The best way to negotiate is to first find out the dealer invoice price by going to edmunds.com or kbb.com and getting the dealer invoice price for the vehicle you want. Then add $500 to cover the FDAF fees which are real and part of what the dealer pays but isn't listed on internet websites because it varies by vehicle and location. This will give you an estimate (within $100 or so) of the dealer invoice price. You can expect to pay anywhere from $0 - $1000 over invoice depending on supply and demand. The dealer will also charge a documentation fee (otherewise known as additional dealer profit) so you have to figure that in. Call the dealership and ask for the new car sales manager. Tell them what you want and ask how much over invoice they want for it and how much is the doc fee? Any manager that won't tell you that straight up on the phone isn't someone you want to do business with. Then call the other dealers and ask the same question. Personally, I think $500 over invoice including the doc fee is a very good price. I wouldn't expect to pay more than $1000 over invoice including the doc fee. But again it depends on your local dealers supply and demand.

That makes sense. If it was going towards the cost of the vehicle it would just be a regular rebate.

I have a 2008 with absolutely no problems with the HVAC system. Works like a champ whether it's 18 or 102.

Not sure what you're asking here. You need to get it fixed by the dealer. They have TSBs on this.

You might want to have someone else doublecheck the tire pressure. There is a slight possibility the first person didn't check it correctly or had a faulty gauge and you might actually still have a tire with low pressure.

I thought it was Wilsons66604 the first time his MFT bit the dust.......

Assuming the dealer reprogrammed the keys when he added the new one then the old one won't work. If you're not sure that's what happened you can take both keys to the dealer and they can reprogram the vehicle for only those 2 keys. Eack key has a unique code that has to be recognized by the vehicle.

It's real. Some dealers are already installing it while others are waiting for the special cable that they were told they would need but many didn't bother to order until now.

Looks like they changed that for MyTouch.

The hard drive did exist on the pre-2011 models (some at least). It was part of the hard drive based Navigation system. The salesperson just didn't realize they changed it for the 2011 Edge models.

What you read in the manual is all you can do for now and it only applies to one key that you designate MyKey. What you want was hinted at for My Ford Touch but isn't yet available or advertised. I expect to see it within the next 2 years or so although it may only be available on the MKX as a Lincoln feature.

Don't ever believe anything a salesperson says. You probably know more than they do. That said, if they specifically said it would play DVDs then you might be able to get a few free oil changes or something like that.

If that's the case then maybe everyone needs to disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes or so. That will kill everything - more than just pulling fuse 29.

Your vehicles are modified to be able to use 25% - basically they have to be flex-fuel E-85 capable to use more than 15% Ethanol.

Correct. The slot is right next to the fob reader in case the battery is low. The metal key is only to open the door.

Turning back on when you start the car is probably normal but it's hard to say for sure unless the owner's manual describes it. What did the OM say? I believe what's happening with defrost is that you have 2 modes - automatic and manual. When you set the temp to 68 and you're in automatic mode it will warm up the interior to 68 so you'd get warm air if it's below 68. When you switch to defrost you're in manual mode and 68 becomes the actual air temp. Try putting the temp on 80 or 85 when selecting defrost and see if that warms up the air. If not then it's probably defective.