akirby

I installed a Hidden Hitch on our 2016 MKX and it didn't interfere with the sensor at all. But I don't think they offer anything for Edge/MKX now for some reason.

No and no.

Should have searched here first instead of YouTube: https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12731-radiator-fan-assembly-replacement-procedure/

Is there a history of these failing (I have one on my F150) or is it just a “it’s cheap and I’m paranoid” thing?

Also forgot - if you always get gas at the same place, try a different station.

It seems obvious you have some type of problem affecting fuel economy. Hopefully the dealer can eventually figure it out. Maybe they'll let you take a loaner and try the same routes and conditions and compare mpg.

8 miles at highway speed is barely enough time to let the engine warm up and that will definitely hurt your mpg.

Personal attacks are not allowed. Keep it civil please even if you disagree.

Ok I see what you’re trying to do here. You’re trying to equate the computer calculated mpg to the EPA test results. And since the EPA test results don’t include lots of idling you think the computer shouldn’t include it either. But that’s only one thing. Should the computer compensate for using E-10 instead of E-0? Should it not count any time you drive faster than 55 since that’s the EPA test avg speed on the highway? Should it compensate for tire pressure or different tires? It just doesn’t and shouldn’t work that way. The EPA test is just a way to compare different vehicles. There is no way anybody would drive exactly like the EPA test. MPG is simple - I put X gallons in and drove Y miles. Period. And that’s all the computer is measuring. It’s up to you to compare the results to the EPA and adjust the way you drive.

Thanks - that’s the post I remembered from the F150 forum but I thought it required Forscan.

I’m sorry but you’re dead wrong on this. There is no way to calculate MPG without including idle time because MPG is Miles per Gallon. Idling consumes fuel but yields no mileage, therefore it will lower your MPG results. If you drive 50 mph steady you might see 27 mpg. If I drive in stop and go traffic I might get 12 mpg. Both are valid.

What Jamie said. Go fill up, reset the MPG and then park and idle and you'll see the mpg drop as it idles. It's the same calculation either way. I'm not sure exactly why Ford's computers are always a bit high (insert conspiracy theory here) but I suspect it's unintentional and may have something to do with E-10/E-15 vs. E-0 on the EPA tests. Either way you can adjust this with Forscan to make it match your hand calculated values.

Idle/stopped time doesn't matter - it just lowers your mpg since you're burning fuel but not moving. But it still counts. I'm not even sure how you would exclude that from your mpg calculations? Unless I'm misreading what you're trying to say.

Not a fuse problem but it might be a weak battery. I’d just replace it to be safe and that will also reboot everything.

I know you hate Ford Performance but try reading the article before commenting.

Ford just released a new Mustang with a revised 2.3L based on the Focus RS engine. 330 hp, 350 lb/ft and 0-60 in the mid 4s. Anyone who thinks 4 cylinder turbos are wimpy haven’t been paying attention.

Owner.ford.com

They did add one acceleration up to 70+ but the average is still near 55 mph. As you approach 60, 70, 80 mph the HP required goes up exponentially.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=android+auto

Only by using Android Auto. iPhone users can do it via applink

The 2.0L has far more torque off the line which to me is far better for normal driving. Our 3.7L MKX feels sluggish by comparison. It does run out of steam at higher RPM but for most people that’s not an issue.

For the second time it is FAR from useless. I use mine all the time. They don't change existing roads and addresses very often. And I do think they'll eventually offer updates they're probably just extending the interval to save money since a lot of owners are probably using AA/Carplay and their cell phone apps now.

I get the mental bias but have you actually driven a 2.0L Edge?

You're not going to get any noticable power improvement from exhaust mods - only a different sound.

Had the same problem on a 2014 Escape. Replacing the button fixed it after the dealer first used the wrong button then neglected to actually test it before giving it back, prompting a call to the owner who promptly picked it up, dropped off a loaner, fixed it then delivered it back to the house.