akirby

You should change it somewhere between 6 and 12 months and 10K-20K KMs. Ford uses synthetic blend oil and the newer vehicles use a sophisticated algorithm that takes into account engine load and other factors to determine when it actually needs to be changed. Changing it every 3 months/5K miles is overkill and a waste of good oil on today's engines.

Wow - I had to go look up the owner's manual because I thought all Ford with keyless remotes came with a perimeter alarm on the doors, trunk and hood but it appears you are correct - the 2009 F150 offers keyless entry but no perimeter alarm. All of my vehicles have had it over the last 10 years so I didn't realize it was optional on some.

Hate to sound so obvious, but are you sure you're using the right code? Did you check the card in the glovebox? If so then you may have one bad button. Try each one to see if it lights up the display.

Sure it does. Have someone sit in the front seat. Lock the doors with the keyfob and wait 1 minute, then have the person inside open the door. The horn will start sounding, the lights will flash and the ignition will be disabled. Almost all Fords have had this feature for the last decade.

You might be able to pull a fuse and disable the rear wheels - that should rule out the AWD. The difference is probably the Hankooks versus your other tires.

It won't hurt to check with the dealer to see if they'll reimburse it. Did you check the fluid level in the old battery? These are not maintenance free and require adding distilled water periodically which I didn't think to do. The clicking is almost always a sure sign of a weak battery - it's the starter relay clicking on and off trying to engage the starter but failing.

Sounds like the tires. You need winter tires in really cold weather and/or snow.

Yes.

Stop vehicle. Turn vehicle off. Restart vehicle.

The bulletin states that cycling the ignition fixes the problem. You said that doesn't fix yours. If it's definitely not the APIM or software upgrade and your speedometer never works then I agree you should be given a new vehicle or a loaner vehicle to drive until yours can be fixed. However, to suggest this is worthy of a class action lawsuit is ridiculous at this point. I do hope you get yours fixed.

I think you're overreacting just a bit. There were some early software flaws that have been fixed and SOME hardware problems. It sounds like you have a bad APIM. Once it's replaced you should be fine. I don't think the intermittent problem mentioned in the Ford documents is your problem.

No, it's not normal if the garage is truly dark enough to require headlamps. If the light level is borderline then it's probably just a difference in sensitivity between the Ford and the Mazda. Does it turn on normally outside when it gets dark? If not then the light sensor might be faulty.

What do you mean "step in the garage"?

Exactly. The battery is toast. Did you check the fluid level? My 08 battery died in a similar fashion and I found it was almost a quart low on fluid. Replaced with distilled water and recharged but it didn't hold. Get a new battery or at least get the old one load tested.

It's not wrong - inside the hex opening is a phillips head screw.

Only if you had the unlimited plan at one time in the past. If you've never had the old unlimited plan then you can't get it now.

I never tried so that might be true.

That's possible. I think it also estimates mileage in between actual reports.

X plan plus $500? That's not a discount, that's a ripoff. Maybe they don't really like cops...........

You missed reading the owner's manual which explains how it works. You move it to the first stop position and release and it blinks a few times and stops. This is for lane changes. Bump and go. If you're actually turning you move it all the way past the first stop and release and it works just like the traditional turn signals. You're just not pushing it far enough. I don't think they'll work the same with snow. It uses a sensor behind the rear view mirror to judge the amount of moisture. Wait for actual rain then see how they perform.

It appears that if you did not have tethering on your unlimited plan you must switch to a metered 2gb plan to get tethering now. If you had it before you can probably keep it.

Create a playlist with the songs in the order you want, then play that playlist. With a usb drive you need a specific playlist file format - do a google search or check syncmyride.com for details. Although I don't quite understand why it's easier to click through dozens or hundreds of songs rather than click on one artist or just use the voice control and say play artist.

2 possibilities. 1 - they like policemen and give you an even better price than X plan. They still make some money with the holdback. Assuming that the "police" discount is a normal thing that they always do. 2 - they're charging a lower price for the vehicle and they're making up the difference with huge doc fees, add-ons or other upgrades or they're keeping rebates that you'd otherwise be entitled to meaning your out the door price ends up more than X plan. Remember the dealer also gets a spiff check from Ford for X plan sales so instead of $200 over invoice they'd actually be making about $600 or more. If you know the dealer and this police discount is legit then it's probably #1 - just make sure to check the doc fee and make sure you get any available rebates. One way is to get out the door prices both ways just to be safe.

I have the old $30 unlimited data plan and tethering is not included. I think it can be added for an extra fee but I haven't tried.

Yes. It's a factory option that's installed by the dealer. Or the dealer can add it aftermarket.