akirby

Are you turning off the vehicle when you're fueling it?

I'm no attorney but I do watch Judge Judy. If the agreement doesn't have a specific description and/or a VIN number then I don't see how that would be binding. Because the dealer could say it's for this vehicle and you could say it's for this other vehicle and neither one of you can prove it one way or the other. So the contract would be unenforceable. I don't think the dealer would do that to you anyway - my guess is they just gave you a sample price and they'll update it and redo it once they find one.

Pull the hood release latch again just to make sure it did not accidentally close while the hood was open.

Not weird at all. How many times have you had to reboot your computer because it got flaky?

Easy - the dealer rep is full of sh*t and is just trying to bring in more revenue. Go by the manual that came with your vehicle and you're safe. Do it sooner if you want but there's no reason why you have to do that.

It resets the sync module. If that doesn't fix it then your usb port is dead.

I think so - never actually used that one myself - I had the cheap universal one. I'd double check and make sure it's made for Ford.

A nice gimmick? Not sure where you get that description. It's a useful feature, not a gimmick. I use mine at least once a week. With Intelligent Access you can use it to lock the IA fob in the vehicle. It disables the IA fob until you use the keypad again to unlock the vehicle. This allows you to lock the IA fob in the vehicle with no risk of someone smashing the window and driving off. No other IA vehicle mfrs offer this feature because they don't use keypads.

Exactly. When you're doing activities and you don't want the keys in your pocket - just lock them in the vehicle. You never have to worry about locking your keys in the car. You can leave the keys locked in the car and let someone else retrieve it just by giving them the code. Kids (or anyone else) can get stuff out of a locked vehicle without needing the keys. It can also be used to lock all the doors (pressing the last two buttons at the same time) or on some vehicles to open the trunk/hatch. You can leave the car running but locked. It's one of those things where if you've never had it you don't miss it but once you've had it you'll never want a car without it again.

I assume they turn in like all other Fords. Get the NAPA dedicated Ford tool. The universal one sucks.

Repeter, s'il vous plait - en Anglais! Nous ne parlons pas Francais!

Cold Air Intake

I think it's just for website registration. I don't think sync actually calls your cell phone.

a - you download it to a USB stick and install it - for the minor updates. The major updates have to be made through the dealer.

Nope. You'll have to contact a Ford dealer if you can't use the website.

syncmyride.com

I think it's normal if you hit the brakes. Someone else reported that once that happened it stayed that way and never returned to normal once they got back on the throttle. If that's the case try hitting the button on the shifter to turn off O/D then turn it back on. If that fixes it then you might want to report it to the dealer.

If you have 2 keys you can program a 3rd key yourself. If you only have one key the dealer has to reprogram the car for the new key (and the old one at the same time). This is a security measure - otherwise the valet could program a duplicate key using just the one you gave them.

Hi Kristina - very few Ford employees here to issue X plan pins. Try blueovalforums.com -> Employee section.

Unfortunately I think it's totally up to the dealer in this case. A good dealer would give you a loaner either way - whether Ford paid for it or not.

NOOO! Do NOT scotchguard leather seats! That's only for carpet and fabric. And that's the best protection for the floors and mats. Just use regular carpet cleaner if it gets dirty.

Buy it out now and you can turn around in 6 months and sell it for a $3K profit (or trade it in). I'd buy it, drive it for another year while they get the bugs out of the 2011s then see if you can make the numbers work.

If you only put 9500 miles on your 08 then you have paid more on your lease payments than the car has depreciated (most likely), so if you just turn it back in you're losing money. If you like it and can't really afford a new one then it's a no-brainer. As far as the extended warranty, I don't recommend them except where a new car buyer can't afford to pay for a large repair (fixed income, etc.) so you put the extended warranty into the price of the new vehicle so you only pay a few bucks per month. Otherwise if you can afford to pay cash for a $1500 warranty then you can probably afford to pay for a repair and if so you'll save money over the long run by self-insuring. If you really want the warranty then finance it with the car to avoid the large repair bill later. Also be aware the time and mileage limits on ESPs (make sure it's a Ford ESP - don't consider anything else) usually start when you buy the vehicle, so you would already be into year 4 or a 7 yr warrranty - you're only paying for 4 additional years. Doesn't sound like you'd ever hit the mileage limit.

The price difference between a SE and SEL is $2500-$3000, not $5K. By the time you add an aftermarket hitch and coolers and wiring and modify the bumper you'll probably be halfway to the cost of the SEL anyway. Get the SEL and enjoy the extra stuff and you won't have to worry whether the aftermarket stuff was done right.

New only. Why would Ford care if you bought a used vehicle?