akirby

Emotional costs? Seriously? Get the latest update. If it still doesn't work pursue a lemon law buyback. Class action is a waste of time. The most you'd get out of it is an extra rebate on a new Ford vehicle while most of the money goes to the lawyers. Or just wait a few months and give Ford a chance to fix it. I see a pattern here that I didn't expect. It seems a lot of gadget geeks are buying this car like they would buy the latest smart phone and if the techy features don't work perfectly then they don't want the vehicle. Interesting.

Make sure you keep it charged and check it regularly.

Yes. Not sure yet.

If it's on level ground then it's probably not necessary to rock it back and forth, but if it doesn't work give it a try anyway. The OM says to turn the key to OFF and remove it, set the parking brake, then press down with the screwdriver. You may or may not need to pull on the shifter at the same time. You can buy a jump starter or a plug-in battery charger with 50 amp start mode for less than $75. A wise investment if you ask me.

Compare it to other vehicles on the lot (same color) and it if's that much worse then Ford may pay to have it color sanded as randyr described above. I know at least one person who had this done on a Ford vehicle but don't remember the details.

Not required. This procedure is used when the brake shift interlock fails and stepping on the brake doesn't work when starting normally. Two suggestions: 1 - go buy a stand alone jump starter. You can jump any vehicle without another one and the vehicle can be in any position. You can also take it with you if you're having or suspect battery problems. And some have other features like lights, etc. Very handy. 2 - You should have removed the key from the ignition and set the parking brake before releasing the shift lever. It looks like you just press down with the screwdriver to release it. If it wouldn't move then I suspect there was pressure on the parking pawl - rocking the vehicle slightly should help in that case. You do set the parking brake each time you park, right?

How many updates have you had done so far? If you really want to get rid of it you'll have to sell it yourself? It would be hard for a dealer to sell a used one that is so close to the new ones so it's not surprising you got lowballed.

Spend some time reading the topics in this forum and if necessary use the search feature. Lots of info already available.

Could just be tree or bird droppings that weren't cleaned. No way to really know.

Please don't quote the pictures when replying. It's not necessary.

You don't know what happened to it before you bought it.

Turn it on, select the top vents, adjust the fan and turn off the A/C

It uses the AC to dehumidify the air. It's normal. Fuel economy impact is negligible.

Your mileage may vary......... Ford doesn't dictate the EPA testing procedures. Obviously your driving doesn't match the EPA tests. It happens.

That actually makes sense - driver vs. rest of car. If that's the case it should solve Kimco's problem. Easy enough to test out - but 68/75 may not be enough of a difference to actually feel it in the backseat.

Plenty. There are several threads in the recalls and 2011 forums.

Throttle response and WOT power yes. MPG - no.

Definitely the clockspring. Classic symptoms.

Could be a bad clockspring in the steering wheel. Do other buttons work intermittently or do the wrong thing? That is the right button but it's behaving as if you're pressing the phone button. What happens when you press the phone button?

Not until the Ford applink software and associated Pandora app gets released. It was done as a proof of concept last year but I haven't seen any production dates.

The owner's manual hints that the rear should be separately controlled but doesn't actually say it. I suspect there is only one hose feeding the rear even though there are 2 vents in which case it would be impossible to have different temps for each side. Has anyone else confirmed this?

Outside of Sync I don't know of any bluetooth devices that would actually use that profile. Most of the devices are just headsets or streaming audio. As more sync equipped vehicles are sold and more mfrs add this bluetooth capability the cell phone mfrs should pay more attention.

Not confusing at all - the dealer is out to make money. Same reason they'll recommend 3K mile oil changes. You could change the tranny fluid at 30K but most think that's overkill. If you want to change it early do it at 60K.

It's a peer to peer connection - either side can cause problems that show up in strange ways. We're not saying it's definitely the phone, but unless you've actually tried multiple phones with the same result then you can't conclude that it's not the phone. Remove the battery from the phone to reset it, delete the phone from sync, do a fuse 29 reset on sync and re-pair it. If that doesn't work try a master reset. Then try another phone if it still doesn't work.

I think you're pressing the phone button, not the voice button.