akirby

We're not going to have that argument again.

Ask to see the invoice. Look up the vehicle options at kbb.com, take their dealer invoice price and add $500 - this will be within $200 or so of the actual dealer invoice (kbb.com and other internet pricing sites don't include the advertising fee which is a legitimate part of the actual dealer invoice - thus the extra $500). Ask about the documentation fee - this is additional profit and generally runs $300-$400 but could be much higher.

That is possible depending on how much you put down, how much you've paid up to that point and how much the vehicle is actually worth. Take the $0 down lease (or close to it). The dealer can still buy your car for the trade-in price and give you the cash. Use the money to reduce your monthly payments during the lease if you need to. If not you have extra money to put down on the loan to buy the car after the lease.

Who told you NEVER put cash down on a lease? It depends on what you're trying to do. Do you plan to keep the car after the lease (buy it out) or turn it in and walk away? Will your financial situation be better in 3 years?

The order bank opens at the beginning of June. The order guide should come out just before.

It's not a controlled test. Any number of things could have changed including ones you didn't know about. That's why you need controlled tests where the only variable is the filter. The fact that such a published test can't be found and hasn't been performed by K&N says all you need to know.

No, it's not obvious until you rule that out by testing it.

Ever hear of jumper cables/jumpstart box? For $75 you can keep one in the garage charged and ready to jump your car. If you suspect your battery may be dying throw it in the car and you can jump yourself off anytime. Or anyone else. Very handy.

Should have let them install it for you. Clean the terminals and check all of the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If you can jump it take it back and let them test it to be safe.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4264939 Popular Mechanics also tested all of the usual mpg improvers like the tornado, diy hydrogen fuel cells, etc. If Popular Mechanics figured out how to do a controlled scientific test on these then why can't K&N do the same test? And BTW - all seven of these actually make claims that they improve MPG - and they're all lying. The fact that K&N doesn't even bother to advertise any actual mpg improvement really says everything. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932 But hey - you can believe whatever YOU want to believe, but if you want to post it here claiming that it's a FACT then you need some unbiased test results to back it up.

Where did you get the battery? Perhaps it wasn't charged. Did you try jumping it?

Did you reinstall the mass airflow sensor correctly? If the filter was over-oiled it could have fouled it. If it was doing engine damage the light would be back on immediately. Could be a one time thing. Just keep an eye on it and if it's flashing get it looked at asap.

That is simply not true. The engine doesn't "work harder". In fact the engine doesn't know the difference between 80% throttle with a very dirty clogged air filter and 20% throttle with a K&N. It only knows how much air is allowed to enter the engine during the intake phase and it adjusts the fuel accordingly. It does affect the MAXIMUM amount of air that can be drawn in at WOT which would affect power, but the amount of fuel used is determined by the amount of air drawn in and it doesn't matter whether that air comes through a paper filter, K&N filter or a diaper. In fact one person actually put a diaper in their airbox and got 1 mpg increase. They had absolutely no power but they certainly didn't see a drop in fuel economy. The flaw in your argument is that the engine works harder. It doesn't. It doesn't know the difference. Simple - it's anecdotal evidence under non-controlled testing conditions. You either fixed some other co-existing problem or you simply changed your driving habits unknowingly (using less throttle due to improved throttle response e.g.). That is nothing but marketing double-speak to try and imply a fuel mileage improvement where they can't prove one exists. I guarantee you is there was ANY test ANYWHERE that proves a MPG benefit then K&N would have it plastered all over their website. It's such an easy test - run 2 identical vehicles the same way or run one vehicle twice and compare the results. If the test is that easy to run and verify - why haven't they?

Please show me anywhere that K&N claims an improvement in MPG. If it was there and could be quantified with testing then they would be touting it all over their website.

You'd have to get a 3.5mm to RCA adapter but it should work. I think you would have to use the aux line in which would probably mean voice command doesn't work - so you'd only be using the usb for power. Because you're either on usb input or aux input but not both.

The fact that many people seem to have no problems and others have had problems that were fixed should be encouraging. Unfortunately in your case I think your dealer is incompetent which adds to the frustration. You might try a different dealer. Either way I believe these issues will be fixed over time so I don't think it's something you'll be "stuck" with. If you continue to have problems with 2.8 then you might have a hardware issue.

Maybe this will finally convince people that not all vehicles have problems with MFT.

That's between you and Motorola. Just get the latest firmware and test it. Most phones do not currently support this feature for some strange reason (including the iphone). I suppose that Sync is the only bluetooth device using that feature right now - or at least the only one using it in volume. As more and more bluetooth equipped vehicles come online I suspect the cell phone mfrs will include more bluetooth profiles.

Topic closed.

If you got 3-5 mpg better than sticker on the hwy with the K&N then you would have gotten the same thing without it. Throttle response will seem better since you can get more air with the same opening.

First - it's brake, not break. And that's why they put it on the vehicle - to keep the vehicle from rolling when it's parked. That's also why it's called a parking brake. The difference is the Edge transmission is simply designed that way. I use the parking brake every time I park. It's a habit and you don't even think about it.

Emotional costs? Seriously? Get the latest update. If it still doesn't work pursue a lemon law buyback. Class action is a waste of time. The most you'd get out of it is an extra rebate on a new Ford vehicle while most of the money goes to the lawyers. Or just wait a few months and give Ford a chance to fix it. I see a pattern here that I didn't expect. It seems a lot of gadget geeks are buying this car like they would buy the latest smart phone and if the techy features don't work perfectly then they don't want the vehicle. Interesting.

Make sure you keep it charged and check it regularly.

Yes. Not sure yet.

If it's on level ground then it's probably not necessary to rock it back and forth, but if it doesn't work give it a try anyway. The OM says to turn the key to OFF and remove it, set the parking brake, then press down with the screwdriver. You may or may not need to pull on the shifter at the same time. You can buy a jump starter or a plug-in battery charger with 50 amp start mode for less than $75. A wise investment if you ask me.