akirby

Check with your insurance company - sometimes they will pay for the repair and it won't cost you a dime. It prevents them from having to replace the entire windshield later.

That's true for the 2011s up to this point but there have been several user-installable updates for the older sync equipped vehicles from syncmyride.com. I think the difference is they've been releasing new firmware as opposed to just application code and that requires a dealer visit.

It did change sometime between 2008 and 2011 but I forgot about needing the special funnel to put something in the tank when I made that original post.

You do realize that they can't just pour something in the tank, right? They'd have to use the special funnel which they probably won't have.

It's not unique to the Edge - all aluminum heads are prone to the plugs freezing. You don't need to actually change them - just loosen and reinstall them - maybe with some anti-seize.

Not true. Ford's system is electronically controlled and can split torque front and rear at any time. It transfers torque to the rear when accelerating through a turn e.g. or if you nail the throttle from a standstill - before slip occurs. It's better than a mechanical system that only transfers torque when slip is detected but it's not as sophisticated as others that can also split torque side to side.

The report I saw said Bsquare was out and Ford was rewriting the software in house with lots of help from Microsoft and the new version would be backwards compatible with current hardware. Not sure about the OS upgrade though.

The new country IS pop. I listen to both also.

Why do they need to be removed?

Nope. No difference in everyday driving between pure nitrogen and regular air. Nitrogen is drier, MAY retain air pressure longer (this is still up for debate) and doesn't change pressure as much as air but none of those are really concerns for everyday driving.

Actually I said IF the engine was designed to use 91 and it doesn't appear that the Edge engine is designed to do that, at least not according to the OM. Although it is possible the programming is in the PCM to do it and it's just not advertised. I think everyone has made their point so let's stick to the OP's question or drop it altogether.

We only slam opinions when they are presented as facts and are factually inaccurate. I like blue cars is an opinion. Turbos yield better MPG is an inaccurate statement of fact. I will say that you appear to be correct that the Edge was not designed to use premium fuel and probably would not yield any performance or mpg gains with 91 octane (according to the OM) but there's no way to know for sure without a controlled test or other evidence from Ford engineers. It is true that I have a serious pet peeve about mis-information or putting blame where it doesn't belong so I feel obligated to speak up when I see that. It's unfortunate that most of what you post falls into that category. If all those other forums don't care about accurate information then that's their problem. Perhaps you should think twice before making unsubstantiated claims that end up getting shot down. Do a little more research and stop relying on marketing hype from companies trying to sell products.

http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-30800-Mini-Fuse-Kits/dp/B000CQDRTI

Ah, but what I said is backed up by the Ford owner's manual and Ford is not using that info for marketing purposes. Your MPG claims are based on very vague statements made by companies trying to sell you a product and your own totally anecdotal and limited experience. There are no published tests under controlled conditions to back up those claims and no scientific theory to support it. Turbos make more power because they force in more air and more air requires more fuel. Period.

Actually I can't find any studies to back that up but it's a general caution in most owner's manuals (Fords at least) so I'm just going by what Ford says. It's probably just a CYA and won't actually cause any damage but at the very least it's a total waste of money and not a good idea - if the car is not designed to take advantage of premium.

Seems nextime only understands marketing bullshit not scientific theory or testing methods. How can a car that works on 87 octane take advantage of 91 octane? Simple - it advances the timing which the higher octane allows without knocking. It's the same thing that a car designed for 91 octane does when using 87 except in reverse - it retards the timing in that case. You don't have to change the compression ratio - only the timing. Cars that "recommend" premium will advance the timing for 91 or higher octane for better performance but will retard the timing to avoid damage if you run 87. It is true that cars that are not designed to take advantage of premium won't benefit by running premium and can cause damage if used long term.

Probably not. Ford stopped doing one size fits all wiring harnesses years ago to save money.

I think it's important to point out that dealers are not Ford and vice versa and that there are state laws that limit what Ford can do with regards to dealers. I don't think it's fair to blame Ford when a dealer screws up or does something bad because Ford has no recourse in most cases. Having a bad dealer should not reflect badly on Ford, although it might affect your individual buying preference if there isn't another Ford dealer nearby. The worst example is when a customer has a problem and the dealer attempts to repair the problem unsuccessfully several times. The customer blames Ford for making such a problematic vehicle and their customer satisfaction and quality scores take a hit when in fact a competent dealer would have fixed the problem easily the first time and the customer would have been happy. I'm just pointing out that whether the dealer charges you for programming a new key or not is totally up to the dealer and Ford has nothing to do with it. Put the blame where it belongs.

Ford doesn't make a dime from programming keys.

Not if you only have one key like the OP said. You need 2 working keys to program another one yourself - this keeps the valet from making a 2nd key.

But is your trade WORTH $20K? You're not going to get a screaming deal on the new car AND retail value for the trade-in. You should probably sell it yourself - you should be able to get at least $2K more than trade-in value.

Not according to the OM. Does yours work differently? Autounlock feature (if enabled) The autounlock feature will unlock all the doors when: • the ignition is on, all the doors are closed, and the vehicle has been in motion at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h); • the vehicle has then come to a stop and the ignition is turned off or to accessory; and • the driver door is opened within 10 minutes of the ignition being turned off or to accessory. Note: The doors will not autounlock if the vehicle has been electronically locked after the ignition is turned off and before the driver door is opened.

That's true. Some people think an air filter increases MPG. (you asked for that one) jackson5 - I'm glad you saw through the BS and didn't do something impulsive.

You're right - roulette probably has better odds. Yes, it's a gamble either way. The difference is when you self-insure the odds are in your favor. When you buy an ESP the odds are in their favor. Personally, I don't like to spend $1000 - $2000 for something I may end up not using. If it makes you feel better to spend the money up front then go for it.

It's called "healthy skepticism". My rule of thumb is beware of anything priced below dealer invoice minus Ford factory rebates, especially on a vehicle that is selling well with minimal inventory. You can get lower than dealer invoice in certain circumstances such as a vehicle that's been on the lot for months or something they're overstocked on but it's rare. Make your best deal without a trade-in first. This way you know they aren't subsidizing the new vehicle price by manipulating the trade-in value. Know the documentation fee up front - that can be several hundred dollars in additional dealer profit that gets tacked onto the end of the deal. Know which rebates you qualify for before you start negotiating or simply leave the rebates out of the deal altogether since they're non negotiable and they're the same at all dealers. Always get the "out the door" price including all fees, rebates, taxes, etc. for comparison. Typical tactics include the afore-mentioned advertising rebates that you're not eligible for, forcing you to finance at a much higher interest rate, inflated doc fees, required dealer add-ons (paint/fabric protection, security system, etched windows, etc.), lowballing trade-in value. CAVEAT EMPTOR. Or as Judge Judy says if it's too good to be true it usually isn't.