akirby

Check each button to make sure they all work. Perhaps one of them isn't working (one of the first 3 since you already tested the last two). If they all seem to work (the pad lights up when you press it) then you may just have the wrong factory code. Do a search on the forums for the location of the keycode. It's printed somewhere in the vehicle.

Where was it parked? Were the doors unlocked after the robbery? Are you sure you have a factory alarm? They're not on all models now. If you have an alarm and it didn't go off and no windows were broken then the most likely explanation is the doors were left unlocked somehow - or you accidentally hit the unlock button.

No, that's not correct. As I explained in the other thread, the lease is essentially the depreciation during the time you drive the car plus interest. Depreciation is your purchase price minus the residual value. Lowering the purchase price lowers the depreciation as does raising the residual value. The actual formula is complicated because the Leasor also has to float the money to buy the car up front so they have to get that back with the interest on the residual value. A simple way to estimate an option to add to the lease is to simply take the dealer invoice value of the option and divide it by the lease term (e.g. $1200 option over 36 months would be $33/month). This isn't exact but it should be relatively close. The only way to get an exact cost is to get the dealer to run the numbers for you on an actual vehicle and compare. There are also hidden incentives on leases (called subsidies) that only show up in the lease payment.

That's a GOOD thing! You want the buy back price to be as high as possible because that lowers your monthly lease payment. If you think about it, the value of a 3 yr old car doesn't really matter whether you paid MSRP for it or X plan. It's just a percentage calculation. But that's just the residual. X plan lowers your acquisition cost - the cost of the vehicle up front. With a lease you're paying the difference between the purchase price and the buy back value plus interest on the entire vehicle since the leasing company has to borrow the money to purchase it on your behalf. So X plan with a high residual will yield the lowest lease payment. Edit: forgot to add - when you lease a vehicle without X plan you can (and should!) negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle itself. Many people don't know this. X plan takes the haggling out of that part of the transaction.

Check with your insurance company - sometimes they will pay for the repair and it won't cost you a dime. It prevents them from having to replace the entire windshield later.

That's true for the 2011s up to this point but there have been several user-installable updates for the older sync equipped vehicles from syncmyride.com. I think the difference is they've been releasing new firmware as opposed to just application code and that requires a dealer visit.

It did change sometime between 2008 and 2011 but I forgot about needing the special funnel to put something in the tank when I made that original post.

You do realize that they can't just pour something in the tank, right? They'd have to use the special funnel which they probably won't have.

It's not unique to the Edge - all aluminum heads are prone to the plugs freezing. You don't need to actually change them - just loosen and reinstall them - maybe with some anti-seize.

Not true. Ford's system is electronically controlled and can split torque front and rear at any time. It transfers torque to the rear when accelerating through a turn e.g. or if you nail the throttle from a standstill - before slip occurs. It's better than a mechanical system that only transfers torque when slip is detected but it's not as sophisticated as others that can also split torque side to side.

The report I saw said Bsquare was out and Ford was rewriting the software in house with lots of help from Microsoft and the new version would be backwards compatible with current hardware. Not sure about the OS upgrade though.

The new country IS pop. I listen to both also.

Why do they need to be removed?

Nope. No difference in everyday driving between pure nitrogen and regular air. Nitrogen is drier, MAY retain air pressure longer (this is still up for debate) and doesn't change pressure as much as air but none of those are really concerns for everyday driving.

Actually I said IF the engine was designed to use 91 and it doesn't appear that the Edge engine is designed to do that, at least not according to the OM. Although it is possible the programming is in the PCM to do it and it's just not advertised. I think everyone has made their point so let's stick to the OP's question or drop it altogether.

We only slam opinions when they are presented as facts and are factually inaccurate. I like blue cars is an opinion. Turbos yield better MPG is an inaccurate statement of fact. I will say that you appear to be correct that the Edge was not designed to use premium fuel and probably would not yield any performance or mpg gains with 91 octane (according to the OM) but there's no way to know for sure without a controlled test or other evidence from Ford engineers. It is true that I have a serious pet peeve about mis-information or putting blame where it doesn't belong so I feel obligated to speak up when I see that. It's unfortunate that most of what you post falls into that category. If all those other forums don't care about accurate information then that's their problem. Perhaps you should think twice before making unsubstantiated claims that end up getting shot down. Do a little more research and stop relying on marketing hype from companies trying to sell products.

http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-30800-Mini-Fuse-Kits/dp/B000CQDRTI

Ah, but what I said is backed up by the Ford owner's manual and Ford is not using that info for marketing purposes. Your MPG claims are based on very vague statements made by companies trying to sell you a product and your own totally anecdotal and limited experience. There are no published tests under controlled conditions to back up those claims and no scientific theory to support it. Turbos make more power because they force in more air and more air requires more fuel. Period.

Actually I can't find any studies to back that up but it's a general caution in most owner's manuals (Fords at least) so I'm just going by what Ford says. It's probably just a CYA and won't actually cause any damage but at the very least it's a total waste of money and not a good idea - if the car is not designed to take advantage of premium.

Seems nextime only understands marketing bullshit not scientific theory or testing methods. How can a car that works on 87 octane take advantage of 91 octane? Simple - it advances the timing which the higher octane allows without knocking. It's the same thing that a car designed for 91 octane does when using 87 except in reverse - it retards the timing in that case. You don't have to change the compression ratio - only the timing. Cars that "recommend" premium will advance the timing for 91 or higher octane for better performance but will retard the timing to avoid damage if you run 87. It is true that cars that are not designed to take advantage of premium won't benefit by running premium and can cause damage if used long term.

Probably not. Ford stopped doing one size fits all wiring harnesses years ago to save money.

I think it's important to point out that dealers are not Ford and vice versa and that there are state laws that limit what Ford can do with regards to dealers. I don't think it's fair to blame Ford when a dealer screws up or does something bad because Ford has no recourse in most cases. Having a bad dealer should not reflect badly on Ford, although it might affect your individual buying preference if there isn't another Ford dealer nearby. The worst example is when a customer has a problem and the dealer attempts to repair the problem unsuccessfully several times. The customer blames Ford for making such a problematic vehicle and their customer satisfaction and quality scores take a hit when in fact a competent dealer would have fixed the problem easily the first time and the customer would have been happy. I'm just pointing out that whether the dealer charges you for programming a new key or not is totally up to the dealer and Ford has nothing to do with it. Put the blame where it belongs.

Ford doesn't make a dime from programming keys.

Not if you only have one key like the OP said. You need 2 working keys to program another one yourself - this keeps the valet from making a 2nd key.

But is your trade WORTH $20K? You're not going to get a screaming deal on the new car AND retail value for the trade-in. You should probably sell it yourself - you should be able to get at least $2K more than trade-in value.