akirby

Exactly. You can remove them (once) but you'll never get them back on.

If you mean the chrome clad wheels - downright impossible.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/7332-inside-info-on-mft-development/page__view__findpost__p__58713 You can trust Waldo on this one. BTW - this doesn't mean that Ford isn't still paying Bsquare under the contract terms even if they decided to redo the software in house. Happens all the time.

This doesn't explicitly say the PTU seal should be covered but it's darn close. Maybe a dealership employee has some experience with this. If Ford insists it's not covered your only recourse would be small claims court. (1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads, electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts, flywheel, injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts, oil pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing, timing chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt), turbocharger/supercharger unit, 10 valve covers, water pump; Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover, seals and gaskets, torque converter, transfer case (including all internal parts), transmission case, transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front and rear), center support bearing, drive shafts, final drive housing (including all internal parts), hubs-automatic front locking (four-wheel drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints;

I wasn't sure but I do know that some engines don't have them. 2000 Lincoln LS V8 e.g. - or was it the V6? One of them for sure did not have a PCV valve.

How do you know it has one?

I believe there was a PCM reflash that was supposed to help with the rollback. Perhaps it was applied during a dealer visit.

Doesn't sound right. I'd get it checked out by a mechanic and/or just go ahead and replace the pads/turn the rotors. This is normal and is a function of how the torque converter is designed (stall speed). All traditional automatic transmissions do this to some degree. In most vehicles the engine idle speed is enough to "engage" the torque converter and prevent rollback. In the Edge the stall speed is higher so engine idle speed is not enough to keep the vehicle from rolling backwards. You get used to it.

Do you have a factory 5/60K powertrain warranty or not? If not then you must have an extended warranty and that could have a $100 deductible. I don't remember when they changed the powertrain warranty to 5/60K. There is no deductible with the factory warranty. Ask the dealer to show you where this is documented.

The switch that turns the lights on and off. To the left of the steering wheel.

Is the car stopped with the parking brake engaged?

There isn't one. Ask the dealer to show you where it says $100 deductible. If they persist call Ford.

That's the right rear - the parking brake may only be on the driver's side but I really don't know. I would just get the tool to be safe - it's not that expensive.

I think they may have fixed the headrest issue with the new Explorer where the headrest tilts. At least that's what I thought I read awhile back. I would expect that design to trickle down to other vehicles. Not sure if the 2012 Edge would get it or not but I think it's a possibility. If not the explorer headrests may work.

I'm sure they do since the parking brake is still integrated. Get the more expensive NAPA dedicated Ford tool, not the universal cheap one.

Power Takeoff Unit - it sends power to the rear differential. Find the driveshaft and see where it connects near the engine. That's the PTU.

Fuse cover sounds right but I wasn't sure since this has been discussed on numerous vehicles and it's in different places.

That's what it's made for. It's not designed to be a substitute for a true manual.

Did you speak with Ford or did you speak with the dealer? Is that a dealer installed item or factory? I don't remember that being a factory option and I don't think we ever concluded where it came from previously.

Yes it's the same as the ABS sensor. No, it's not part of the powertrain. I think a replacement is only a few hundred bucks. Any dealer could give you a quote over the phone. Not sure if it's a DIY job or not.

Are you 100% sure it wasn't already there? We've seen those on several Canadian cars. It appears to be an aftermarket item added by the new car dealers before they're sold.

Check each button to make sure they all work. Perhaps one of them isn't working (one of the first 3 since you already tested the last two). If they all seem to work (the pad lights up when you press it) then you may just have the wrong factory code. Do a search on the forums for the location of the keycode. It's printed somewhere in the vehicle.

Where was it parked? Were the doors unlocked after the robbery? Are you sure you have a factory alarm? They're not on all models now. If you have an alarm and it didn't go off and no windows were broken then the most likely explanation is the doors were left unlocked somehow - or you accidentally hit the unlock button.

No, that's not correct. As I explained in the other thread, the lease is essentially the depreciation during the time you drive the car plus interest. Depreciation is your purchase price minus the residual value. Lowering the purchase price lowers the depreciation as does raising the residual value. The actual formula is complicated because the Leasor also has to float the money to buy the car up front so they have to get that back with the interest on the residual value. A simple way to estimate an option to add to the lease is to simply take the dealer invoice value of the option and divide it by the lease term (e.g. $1200 option over 36 months would be $33/month). This isn't exact but it should be relatively close. The only way to get an exact cost is to get the dealer to run the numbers for you on an actual vehicle and compare. There are also hidden incentives on leases (called subsidies) that only show up in the lease payment.

That's a GOOD thing! You want the buy back price to be as high as possible because that lowers your monthly lease payment. If you think about it, the value of a 3 yr old car doesn't really matter whether you paid MSRP for it or X plan. It's just a percentage calculation. But that's just the residual. X plan lowers your acquisition cost - the cost of the vehicle up front. With a lease you're paying the difference between the purchase price and the buy back value plus interest on the entire vehicle since the leasing company has to borrow the money to purchase it on your behalf. So X plan with a high residual will yield the lowest lease payment. Edit: forgot to add - when you lease a vehicle without X plan you can (and should!) negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle itself. Many people don't know this. X plan takes the haggling out of that part of the transaction.