akirby

A bad wheel bearing will cause a lot more road noise also.

They can't be different. Make sure you're getting power - it may be a blown fuse. Also - they may only be powered when the ignition is on.

There is a microphone, usb input and at least one other separate sync module. It's way more complicated than just a head unit swap. You'd be better off just getting an aftermarket bluetooth interface.

My guess is there's something stuck in the mechanism or in the seat. You should be able to remove the seat with a few bolts in the floor.

2.11 seems to be stable so far. The hardware is the same AFAIK. When they upgrade it's a full reinstall - that's why it's done at the dealer. Any new vehicles built now should have 2.11 and should be stable. They're also doing a total rewrite of the software that should be available sometime next year.

I still say it's WAY more likely that it's just a bad battery. I've had to replace two batteries recently (both were bad) and both had a lot of corrosion around the terminals. And if it was overcharging then a simple alternator swap would fix that. But hey - it's your money and if you didn't feel comfortable with the vehicle then I guess walking away was best.

And exactly how would canadarajah know which fuse is fuse 29 without looking at the owner's manual? In that sense my advice was MORE helpful.

The BSI override has to be there and it's the same whether you have push button start or not. It's required for certain situations. Ask the dealer how to do it.

No I can't because I'm not looking at the owner's manual at the moment. Take out your owner's manual and it will tell you which fuse controls the radio and the location of the fuseblock. Replace that fuse and see if that fixes it. Or take it to AutoZone or some other auto parts store and see if they'll check it for you.

Fuse.

We can split the commission........

No, he's saying he's a professional audio installer who knows more about installing stereos than you do - because he's a professional. Just like you would likely know more about auto repair than he would - because you're a professional. The advice is simple - if you don't know exactly what you're doing you can screw something up, so be careful and if you're not sure get a professional to help. Sounds like good advice to me on such a complicated project.

Over a $100 bad battery? Seriously?

The A/C IS the dehumidifier. It cools the incoming air which reduces it's ability to hold water so it condenses and that's the puddle you see. Just like a cold glass on a hot humid day or the condensation from your home air conditioner.

Ford considered it but decided it was still too risky since there was no way to know whether it was the driver or the passenger using the system. I thought the 2011s had the ability to enter a destination by voice command?

I'd start at $0 but up to $500 would be a decent deal provided the doc fee isn't too high (some are as high as $600 - be sure to ask up front.) Actually the dealer can usually make more when you finance depending on the terms. The advantage to cash is it's a done deal - no approvals to worry about and less paperwork. But the dealer may actually make more off financing. If you can't get the deal you want and you don't mind driving to Atlanta I can check with my dealer. I'm sure he can come close to your terms.

What exactly are you looking for (model/color/trim)? $2K over invoice is not a great price unless the vehicle you want is in very short supply. You should be able to get $500 over invoice plus rebates with no problem. Try this: call other dealers and ask for the sales manager. Tell him/her what you want and ask how much over invoice they want for it. If they won't tell you hang up. Any good dealer will tell you straight up. Don't include rebates - you get those everywhere and they come from Ford not the dealer.

I think they're referencing dealer invoice prices and people who look up the invoice prices on the web. The only part out of line is where they say they have to pay for a full tank of gas. I just pulled a sample dealer invoice from the Ford Partner website and they charge the dealer a whopping $15 for 5 gallons of gas. Not even worth mentioning. On this example the FDAF is $465.

The procedure is in the owner's manual. It's called auto-unlock. However, it won't unlock the doors until you open the driver's door (if it's like the previous models).

Doesn't sound like wheel bearings to me. A good mechanic can use chassis ears to pinpoint the source.

Did they replace the hub assembly the first time? If not then you might be able to get it covered now since that's the root cause of the bearing failures from what I understand.

You can apply most any polish by hand but it's a lot of work. I've had good luck with Meguiars but I'm sure others have different recommendations.

Most of the different brands actually use the exact same gasoline from a local refiner just with different additives. I wouldn't worry about specific brands or stations unless others in your area have reported specific problems. I use BP but there's nothing special about it.

To be fair, there is a fuel charge on the dealer invoice but it's only 2 gallons, not an entire tank. I am lucky that I have a great salesman who is totally honest and transparent.

Why doesn't it apply to push button start vehicles? The BSI (brake shift interlock) is the same. There is an access panel on the side of the shifter - just remove it and depress the BSI then shift to Neutral. Press and release the start button without the brake pedal engaged to put it in accessory mode. Or start it, put it in Neutral, turn it off, then back to accessory mode.