akirby

Assuming you have one of these: You could make it work by removing the fuses and red wire. Then you solder a new wire onto each leg of part that fits in the fuse box. Attach these 2 wires to the switch but you'd have to add a new fuse in-line somewhere to replace the one you lost.

I'll make this a sticky topic. Good job! I wonder if you could force an immediate reboot by changing delayed to immediate or something similar.

None of the pigtail fuses or add-a-circuit fuses actually interrupt the original circuit in the fuse itself - it just adds a new wire to the same circuit. You would need a fuse that isn't connected in the fuse itself but has 2 pigtail leads - one from each side of the fuse - and those you could wire together with a switch. But I can't find one like that. Otherwise the original fuse 29 circuit is still intact and won't be controlled by the switch. It's not the same as pulling the fuse. If you don't understand I can try to draw a picture.

You can't use a fusetap unless you remove the sync fuse and put the fusetap on another circuit. Just find the right wire and put the switch in-line with the wire. If you continue to have problems with 2.11 you may have a bad APIM.

Maybe. I'll believe it when I see it.

Given how hard Ford is working to get as much power as possible from these engines I just doubt they left that much on the table with software settings. Unless it destroys fuel economy and/or longevity.

I thought factory HIDs were self-leveling? Check the OM for adjustment information or have the dealer check it.

Ford has reportedly gotten up to 350 hp out of the 2.0L ecoboost in the lab. But that requires significant hardware changes. You said 50-60 hp with only a tuner and higher octane fuel and that's the part that I doubt.

I'm just a lowly moderator. I don't have permission to update emoticons.

No way. 10-15, tops.

If you have MyFordTouch - yes. There is a new version 2.11 that seems to make it much faster. Check the syncmyride.com website.

Yes, it's on. It dehumidifies the air.

Not that I know of but you can find the navigation manual online at www.motorcraftservice.com -> owner guides

Do a search. It's been documented several times. Or find a dealer that knows what they're doing. You can't do it on the 2011 though. Ford only provides the software to Canadian dealers.

Noticeable but probably not substantial.

First you have to find a downhill grade. If you tap the brakes going downhill you should feel a downshift. If you lock out Overdrive by pressing the button on the shifter you should feel it downshift and lock out 4th and 5th gears. Essentially you should not have to hold the brakes going downhill - it should select a lower gear for engine braking to varying degrees based on the shifter position (D, then D with O/D turned off, then L). Suffice it so say that Willard is wrong about just about everything, here and on several other forums. He hasn't been here for almost a year. Hopefully he won't come back. If he does I'm sure the moderator will take care of the problem swiftly.

I prefer Pro-Fit-Intl mounts. They're permanently mounted to either the radio screws or the dash - always hidden and very sturdy. Here is one for the Edge - they have at least a couple of different models. http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/Adobe/IF-71-03-G3-p6.pdf

Nothing wrong with being anal about your paint. If you are then you're probably better off doing it yourself.

I understand and I respect your opinion. In this case I just think the professionals are erring too much on the side of caution for all but the most anal owners. That's why I didn't discount your advice - I simply gave my differing view based on about 12 years of consistent use with both light and dark cars and the other cars I've seen. Maybe my particular car wash is really clean or has some different type of technology. Or maybe the professionals are simply lumping all automatic car washes together when in fact they're not all the same. I would probably do the same thing if i was a professional detailer.

Just today at lunch I was waiting to turn left while a line of 5 cars coming the other way proceeded to turn left without any turn signals whatsoever. I had to sit there and wait thinking one of them was going straight. And this was after the stupid lady in front of me comes to a dead stop in a 45 mph divided 4 lane road because there was some guy standing in the median (at least 3-4 feet away from the street). I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear ending her. She thought he wanted to cross the street - which he did not. Not sure what she thought the other lane next to her was going to do when the guy walked out from in front of her car. I think we need to start charging $1500 like Germany for a license and actually TRAIN drivers, not just "educate" them. Idiots!!!!!

Did you miss this part? I say they're fine. The detailer says they're not. You folks decide for yourself.

Yep and I've never seen any scratches in my paint in the sun. I'm not saying they aren't there, but they're certainly not visible to the casual observer. I think the cloth strip type automatic car washes are relatively safe and a reasonable alternative to hand washing for most consumers.

At this point the best HELP we can give you is to find a new dealer who cares.

No argument there - I agree that brushes and touchless systems can do serious damage. And I'm sure the one I described can do some damage but I don't think it's enough to be visible to the naked eye unless you're a professional and you know what to look for. So it's a good compromise for most folks.

This is too close to a religious discussion that will simply end up in an ongoing argument. Topic closed.