akirby

The problems should be fixed within 6 months. And not everyone has problems. There are numerous reports of people with very minor or no problems whatsoever. It's not every vehicle.

Some sluggishness, occasional freezes or reboots and intermittent phone pairing problems. There are plenty of folks who don't have any problems so it's not guaranteed. And the latest software seems relatively stable. Chances are you'll only have some minor problems. If you really want MFT then go ahead and get it - I think you'll be ok. But I don't understand why you're upside down on your current car. If it's worth $10K but you only owe $3K then you're $7K ahead. Unless that was a typo and you owe $13K.

My guess is it's an either/or discount - depends on whether the dealer kicks in for the discount or not.

Look up your vehicle on edmunds.com or kbb.com or cars.com and take the dealer invoice price including destination charges and add $500. This will be very close to dealer invoice, give or take $100. Subtract any factory incentives and that's a very good price with a reasonable doc fee ($300 or less). You might be able to do a little better than that with a lot of haggling. You might have to go up to $500 over that price depending on supply. In the end it really depends on what is selling in your area and supply and demand.

If you've gotten by without AWD then you probably don't need it and you'll avoid a potential problem area with the PTU. There are still some issues with MyFordTouch although that should be fixed permanently with new software early next year. If you don't care about MFT then you could skip it and save some money and potential problems. That's about it. You'll love it.

For the 700th time - it's not microsoft, it's the application code!

Fixed it for you.

The rental car is the only part that kicks in before the b2b expires. Forgot about that part.

Actually it's "peace" of mind and you can always come out ahead on one vehicle if you're willing to gamble. But I don't remember any PTU problems outside of the factory 5/60K warranty.

Extended warranties only begin after the 3/36 factory b2b warranty expires. You have until then to purchase the extended warranty but there is a $100 extra fee after 12 months. Unless you're financing the warranty with the vehicle, I say wait until the 3/36 is up to buy it. Otherwise you're just giving them your money to use for 3 years with no benefits.

As jlong pointed out that was over 5 vehicles that were kept at least 2 years beyond the warranty period.

The key is you can't go back and forth - you need to make the decision to self-insure and stick with it, even if you lose on one or two vehicles. You'll win in the long run over a lot of vehicles. But you may have to pay for a large repair occasionally. For people who can't afford a single large repair bill I recommend buying the warranty with the vehicle and financing it so you're only paying a few dollars per month. If you can afford to buy a warranty after the fact for $1500, you can probably afford to pay for a big repair also.

It's a mild annoyance every once in a while but I don't ever remember a lights on indicator on any Fords or Lincolns I've owned recently. The autolamps on my 08 Edge work just fine. Some people have added a piece of tint over the sensor on the dash to make them come on earlier. I think useless is a bit of a reach.

Not necessarily. We've been through this before. If you want to buy an extended warranty because it makes you feel better or because you feel unlucky or you just want to gamble that you'll come out ahead - fine. But the odds of getting more in claims that you have to pay for the warranty are not in your favor. If they were then nobody would sell them because they'd lose money. As an example, I've saved over $7k by NOT buying extended warranties on any vehicles, so I don't care if I have to spend $4K tomorrow - I'm still $3K ahead.

The OM does say to go by the message center reminder on oil change interval - very explicitly. For normal service. The other mileages are for severe service. Under normal circumstances you should be around 5000 miles since last change at 50% if it was reset properly. If it doesn't change at all within a month then a trip to the dealer would be in order.

Absolutely not. The factory fill is a synthetic blend 5w-20. The full synthetic version is optional and IMO not necessary. I thought the 2011 had a smart oil change reminder that tells you when to change it up to 10K miles.

Why Ford? Aren't they regular mini-ATM fuses?

It appears to be the text back feature that is new with MFT, although that article doesn't say that. Another one does though - looks like they're adding the text back feature to sync on the F-150, Fiesta, Flex, Fusion, Mustang and Taurus without MFT. Very confusing, but the ability to simply read incoming texts is not new.

Ford - yes. Canadian Dealers - yes. U.S. Dealers - no. No idea why.

That was easily done on other Ford vehicles but the 2011 Edge is different for some reason.

I didn't think any sealant was permanent - that's good to know. I also realize professional detailers will never recommend any type of automatic car wash. But I'm not a perfectionist and they work fine for me with no visible paint damage (to me). I suspect most folks fall into my category.

The 2013 Flex uses the same hardware. It's not changing. Response time seems to be a software issue, specifically with Flash. I don't think the new version uses Flash.

I don't see why not.

Pulling fuse 29 doesn't lose your pairings - it just reboots the APIM. Master reset dumps all your data.

That's a different profile.