akirby

Make sure it's really OEM glass. There is a big difference.

Seemed perfectly fine to me. How much faster does it have to be?

The logic is that it makes it easier for the tow hook driver to pull your vehicle out of the ditch. In fact I think the technical term is a "ditch extraction hook". My 2000 LS had one even though it was never sold overseas.

Sorry, but it's a personal pet peeve when it appears that people post questions without checking the manual first - especially when it then appears that you didn't read the info that I posted either. At least I posted the information for you instead of just saying RTFM. It's also possible that you had a temporary power disruption to the PCM or there is some other problem that the dealer needs to check out. Just follow the instructions as FordGuru suggested and you should be able to take care of it.

Not legally or officially.

Joe - it works fine but it's not the safest way to do it for the reasons I already described. It's much safer to use the negative cable. I'd steer clear from a mechanic who didn't know this.

Or you could try reading the owner's manual:

I once heard a Lincoln VP refer to it as "Mop-n-Glo".

I understand and agree. Could also be wiring or connectors.........

That's what I was going to suggest. If you're not going to use it you could always just snip it off.

You're always supposed to disconnect the negative lead for safety reasons. If, while disconnecting the negative battery lead you accidentally touch a grounded part of the car - nothing happens. But if you're disconnecting the positive lead and accidentally touch a grounded part of the car you just completed the circuit. There is no difference which one you disconnect electrically speaking - both work, but using the neg. cable is much safer.

It's standard on the Boss 302. 4 exhaust pipes - 1 on each side and two in the rear.

You can get 3157LL . LL stands for Long Life.

Possible but I think it's more likely that there is just a bad batch of them and they're not bad enough that it fails completely. Or as suggested earlier it could just be some combination of usage that hits more of the bugs for some people than others. It could be as simple as whether you use seat heaters or not that uses a different part of the code and that triggers more faults. I've seen some pretty strange things in my 25 years in IT. The good news is that once the update is out then continued problems would point more towards hardware and should make it easier to resolve. Right now they just don't know whether it's hardware or software.

Free pass - post it and if it's not appropriate I'll just delete it and tell you why it's not appropriate. No suspension.

I'm leaning towards a flaky APIM for those having severe problems. I think Ford should at least attempt to replace the APIM for these owners while waiting for the rewrite.

I thought the original MFT nav came with 3D maps but I could be mistaken. What does the manual say?

It's fine if you just want a cheap quick fix. The kits usually include both base and clear coat plus sandpaper, rubbing compound, etc. which makes for a better repair but is more expensive and takes a lot more time.

I've had really good results with paintscratch.com kits - either in aerosol or touch up pens.

The rear panel is fixed - it doesn't operate. Unless you're talking about the shade in which the answer is still no.

Not really. Way too many sensors and PCM code required.

How many times do you think the sign painter came back and said "Are you sure this is the right name?". I'm guessing at least 5.

Let me know ahead of time next time so I can alert the authorities........

I agree they'll release the new version with the 2013 models. However, I believe that version will be better and more stable than the current 2.11 version. So that's not necessarily a bad thing and nothing like the disaster with the 2011 models. I also think they'll take extra time to get more bugs worked out before releasing the upgrade to existing customers.