akirby

Not legally or officially.

Joe - it works fine but it's not the safest way to do it for the reasons I already described. It's much safer to use the negative cable. I'd steer clear from a mechanic who didn't know this.

Or you could try reading the owner's manual:

I once heard a Lincoln VP refer to it as "Mop-n-Glo".

I understand and agree. Could also be wiring or connectors.........

That's what I was going to suggest. If you're not going to use it you could always just snip it off.

You're always supposed to disconnect the negative lead for safety reasons. If, while disconnecting the negative battery lead you accidentally touch a grounded part of the car - nothing happens. But if you're disconnecting the positive lead and accidentally touch a grounded part of the car you just completed the circuit. There is no difference which one you disconnect electrically speaking - both work, but using the neg. cable is much safer.

It's standard on the Boss 302. 4 exhaust pipes - 1 on each side and two in the rear.

You can get 3157LL . LL stands for Long Life.

Possible but I think it's more likely that there is just a bad batch of them and they're not bad enough that it fails completely. Or as suggested earlier it could just be some combination of usage that hits more of the bugs for some people than others. It could be as simple as whether you use seat heaters or not that uses a different part of the code and that triggers more faults. I've seen some pretty strange things in my 25 years in IT. The good news is that once the update is out then continued problems would point more towards hardware and should make it easier to resolve. Right now they just don't know whether it's hardware or software.

Free pass - post it and if it's not appropriate I'll just delete it and tell you why it's not appropriate. No suspension.

I'm leaning towards a flaky APIM for those having severe problems. I think Ford should at least attempt to replace the APIM for these owners while waiting for the rewrite.

I thought the original MFT nav came with 3D maps but I could be mistaken. What does the manual say?

It's fine if you just want a cheap quick fix. The kits usually include both base and clear coat plus sandpaper, rubbing compound, etc. which makes for a better repair but is more expensive and takes a lot more time.

I've had really good results with paintscratch.com kits - either in aerosol or touch up pens.

The rear panel is fixed - it doesn't operate. Unless you're talking about the shade in which the answer is still no.

Not really. Way too many sensors and PCM code required.

How many times do you think the sign painter came back and said "Are you sure this is the right name?". I'm guessing at least 5.

Let me know ahead of time next time so I can alert the authorities........

I agree they'll release the new version with the 2013 models. However, I believe that version will be better and more stable than the current 2.11 version. So that's not necessarily a bad thing and nothing like the disaster with the 2011 models. I also think they'll take extra time to get more bugs worked out before releasing the upgrade to existing customers.

Holy cow - I thought that was a typo at first. That's a real Welsh word?

He wasn't being negative to you although it's easy to see how you would take it that way. He was really just being critical of the F&I guy, not you.

He took you from being a happy customer to being an EXTREMELY happy customer (as evidenced by your Wow that's GREAT reaction). It's all about PR. Also - if you had decided not to get the ESP then he could have used the interest reduction as a sales tool. So he either uses it to make the ESP sale or he gets tons of PR and goodwill. Ask yourself this: Since the ESP warranty and Ford Credit are not in any way related to each other, why would the purchase of one affect the other? Your interest rate is based on what you're financing and you're credit history. Since neither of those things changed, the interest rate should not have changed. I can go to my credit union today and get 2.69% for 60 months without even trying so 2.5% isn't that spectacular. There is a lot of stuff like this that goes on behind the scenes in F&I. My suggestion is to line up your own financing and ESP purchase ahead of time and don't let the F&I guys play games. Again - nobody is suggesting you got duped or taken in this instance - just trying to educate everyone on how this process really works so nobody gets duped down the road.

If you were planning to buy the warranty any way and you got a decent price on it then you didn't get duped. Dingo was just pointing out that you could have gotten 2.5% without buying the extended warranty if you so desired. It's important to point this out for other people who might be in the same situation.