akirby

I've had the LTX-MS in the past and liked them but I think the OEM tires are lower rolling resistance so your mileage may drop. If you're happy with the OEM tires I'd stick with them.

It was obviously ready a couple of months ago considering they gave it to employees to beta test. The only conclusion is they're finding and fixing bugs found during beta testing and while it's frustrating for those having problems today I think it's the right choice given what happened before. Better for it to be a month or two late and be right than be early and have continued problems. I hope the problems are minor though - I'd hate to think they did a rewrite only to have more huge issues.

Either one will work but it's safer to do the negative battery cable. A few seconds should do it but I've heard some say 30 minutes just to be safe.

They can't go higher than 10% Ethanol - current vehicles can't handle it. They tried to do 15% but it got shut down.

Nope - it's actually quite easy. Enjoy your vacation.

Have you tried disconnecting the negative battery cable? And yes, I understand that you shouldn't have to do it but it has worked for others and is worth a try.

That's funny considering you started it.

I completely understand but we don't need personal attacks and that's where this was headed, regardless of how much you might enjoy it. If you want to carry on that type of discussion do it via PMs.

No need to get wound up over semantics. Let it go.

Let's not go there, please.

But it matters if you're doing the upgrade yourself because I don't think you can self-upgrade prior to 2.7.

The dealer would have just called the installer and they would have done exactly the same thing, unless the dealer knew to make sure it had soundscreen.

Good point.

They're identical - except for the part that keeps out road noise.

It was. If that's true it will be very disappointing and frustrating for those with problems. OTOH it would indicate that the beta testing worked.....

I was only referring to comparing MFT to smart phones and tablets and those who think an in-car OEM system should work exactly the same. It's simply not practical considering the average car's lifespan and operating environment. And no, I wasn't saying it was ok for it to be slow because of that. Based on the demos I've seen and using my own touch screen navigation systems in 2 different vehicles PLUS my daughter's MFT equipped 2012 Focus - I don't consider the system too slow for an OEM system. I believe the performance shown in the video would satisfy 99% of the owners if it worked like that all the time without glitches. And the other 1% are not going to ever be happy with it no matter what. It's like saying the Edge is too slow because it takes 6.5 seconds to reach 60 mph while Corvettes and GT500 mustangs can do it in less than 4.5 seconds.

It's exactly the same thing - it cuts power and forces a reboot. Unless there are other pieces of hardware that also need to be rebooted that aren't on fuse 29. But that has seemed to work in most cases.

Would your ipad survive for 10-15 years in temperature extremes from 120+ down to -50 while being subjected to washboard roads and other shocks? You can't just take something designed for home use and put it in a car.

Have you tried pulling fuse 29 to see if that helps? You should report these major problems to your dealer - it could be a hardware problem.

How about comparing it to other in-vehicle systems (like previous nav touch screens) instead of comparing it to smart phones and tablets? A smart phone or tablet doesn't have to survive 10+ years including weather extremes.

That's not the new upgrade. It isn't out yet.

Make sure it's really OEM glass. There is a big difference.

Seemed perfectly fine to me. How much faster does it have to be?

The logic is that it makes it easier for the tow hook driver to pull your vehicle out of the ditch. In fact I think the technical term is a "ditch extraction hook". My 2000 LS had one even though it was never sold overseas.

Sorry, but it's a personal pet peeve when it appears that people post questions without checking the manual first - especially when it then appears that you didn't read the info that I posted either. At least I posted the information for you instead of just saying RTFM. It's also possible that you had a temporary power disruption to the PCM or there is some other problem that the dealer needs to check out. Just follow the instructions as FordGuru suggested and you should be able to take care of it.