akirby

The APIM warranty was extended but I don't remember the details.

Ford would save a bunch of money on warranty repairs if the solution was as simple as more heat shields. And if the problem really is manufacturing tolerances (which makes sense to me) then that's not something that will necessarily ever show up in testing. It's still Ford's fault either way but I don't necessarily think it's a lack of testing.

Broken motor mount?

That's ridiculous. Hope you have another dealer to use.

I believe there is a website where you can submit new roads.

The only reason I suggested premium is to eliminate the possibility of less than 87 octane. Normally it won't buy you more than 1 or 2 mpg at most - not enough to offset the added cost.

Try filling up with premium and resetting the avg mpg and see what you get. You could also try using a different gas station. It's possible you're getting bad gas below 87 octane. Also make sure your tires are inflated properly and you're not dragging a boat anchor.

Averaging 40-50 mph for the whole trip or only while you're moving? How much stop and go traffic? How are you calculating mpg? Have you reset the computer display?

Yes, if you're only averaging 10 mph that would do it.

Let me clarify - try the clay bar first and see if that works. If it works stop there and apply some wax. If it doesn't work completely, try the rubbing compound, then wax.

What is your normal drive cycle? Less than 5 miles? Short trips will kill fuel economy on almost all cars.

The downshift should not be taking it to redline - computer is too smart to do that. Are you sure the traction control light wasn't blinking? That will cut power as well. Try downshifting manually in sport mode, then nail the throttle and see if it happens again. If it does then it may be a fuel/throttle body issue.

I would not start with sandpaper. Try the clay bar first, then rubbing compound and finish up with a little wax. I bet that gets at least 90% of it and maybe all of it.

I'll pass that along to the site owner.

First try some rubbing compound to see if they'll buff out. If not you can try a touch up pen.b

Let's rephrase that. Pissed off your wife or kids lately? Best guess (ruling out the above) would be a puncture or leaky bead that only leaks while on the vehicle. Check again very carefully looking for headless nails or some other type of puncture and check the bead area. You could also try putting the max psi in it while it's off the vehicle (based on the rating on the tire).

Hard to say. Check the outside very closely for signs of an impact. That's what the dealer is going to do.

They won't help much with performance. It's fine if you're just going for sound though.

Skip the first 2 and just get the tuner.

Paddles aren't for shifting faster - they're for holding a lower gear longer or downshifting before you hit the gas.

What difference would that make?

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If you can afford to pay for a big repair at some point you'll save money by never buying an extended warranty (over 20-30 years). You can always gamble on one vehicle but it's still a gamble.

Calm down and do t post the same thing multiple times. As noted in the other thread see if your state has a return period. Of not you just have to let them fix it. Chances are it's something simple and once fixed you won't have other problems. It does not mean it's a lemon.

Simple - send a PM to ice-capades over on blueovalforums. Joey works at a dealership and can tell you exactly what info dealers have and the status on orders. Maybe there is some unknown delay but its rare that someone reports a dealer who has all the info that Joey provides to us on the forum, and he's getting his info from the same place. They either don't know where to look or don't care in most cases. Or they're trying to sell what's on the lot.