akirby

Depends on what gives you peace of mind. For me it's knowing that I've saved $7500 on my last 5 vehicles by not buying the ESP. I would willingly pay for a $3K repair and not think twice because I'm still $4500 ahead. For me it's the total cost and I don't mind having to pay for a large repair bill every once in a while - although that hasn't happened in the last 20 years. And I've kept all of those vehicles at least 2-3 years beyond the factory warranty. Maybe I've been lucky but even a couple of large repairs would still be less than I've saved. I think it makes a lot of sense to finance the ESP in with the vehicle and pay a little extra per month if you're not capable of paying a large repair bill.

It only blocks a small portion of the median - you can still see behind and in front of the A pillar. I suppose if you stopped in just the right spot it would block the edge of the median. But I've never had a situation where I couldn't see something.

Exactly. This is all part of the original warranty repair. Give the dealer one more chance to fix it then take it to another dealer and/or call Ford for assistance.

The A pillar doesn't hide the entire curb and you can't actually see the front tire anyway. I guess you just get used to it.

Hidden Hitch on a 2016 MKX:

Hidden Hitch

Not trying to argue here but I think it's important that you understand the situation. Who knows the average repair cost on an Edge better than Ford? If Ford was losing money on these ESPs they would either raise the prices or stop selling them. If Ford is not losing money then that means on average the cost of repairs is less than the cost of ther warranty. Maybe not on an individual vehicle or two or more, but certainly over several vehicles. I understand rolling it into the cost of the vehicle and making small monthly payments rather than paying out of pocket for a big repair. But if you're strictly looking at cost and you can afford to pay for a repair out of pocket sometimes you can save a lot of money over the long run.

If that includes the ESP then that's a lot better deal.

Yes - I think Ford has shrunk the difference between invoice and MSRP the last few years so that's probably right. But just to clarify - those extra dealer rebates and hold backs change the dealer cost but not the actual dealer invoice. That is the same for all dealers in the same area. The local advertising fees can vary region to region though.n

I'm not going to argue whether it's worth the cost or not. That's up to you to decide. But I'm telling you that you don't have to pay the dealer for "inspections" to maintain warranty coverage.

Did you completely miss post #3 back on Oct. 6th?

The difference between MSRP and Dealer invoice is around $3K on a typical Edge. The dealer then gets an additional 3% holdback from the factory so that's another $1K or so. There can be additional cash rebates or kickbacks but usually not much.

Why on earth would anyone pay $259 for an inspection? Just because they offer it doesn't mean it's needed or can't be done a lot cheaper. That's the fallacy with these programs - they include a lot of "inspection" costs that aren't really necessary. If that's what you would normally pay for then I guess it's an ok deal once you figure in the brakes. But you can have the oil changed every 7500K or so and do one full brake job for a lot less than $1800.

Check the maintenance guide - there are no tune-ups for the first 90K - pretty much just oil and filter changes. Does that plan include wear items like brake pads, wipers, etc.?

It's not the harness - it's the sensor inside the door latch. You can bypass it in the wiring harness if you're adventurous but that also means it won't warn you when it actually is ajar and shouldn't be. Next time you get the shift to park error try jiggling the shifter. If it goes away it's the switch. I don't think those two really share anything electrically but I suppose there is a slight chance they're related. Both are common failures though.

It won't "work itself out". The real fix is to replace the door latch and the shifter assembly, but you see above you can probably just replace the switch and if you search the forum you'll find some workarounds for the door latch.

Tire rack is much more of an expert than any of us.

Your latitude and time of year also makes a big difference relative to the sun's angle on the dashboard.

You can add a hitch for a bike rack pretty easily. Cost is https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2015_Ford_Edge.htm?style=&furl=-pt-Class_II

I didn't find much difference between the 20s and 21s as far as ride quality.

My guess is it was a flaky sensor/wiring and not a problem with the control module but that's just a guess. If it was a real problem the light would have come back on immediately. I would take it to a different dealer if the problem reoccurs that way you'll have 2 opinions. But this is usually a sensor or tone ring.

2018 Edge Unobtanium

A good shop will have chassis ears to help isolate it if you can reproduce it for them. Otherwise sway bar bushings would be my first guess.

So what do you think - 5-6 hp?

Sorry yes - Titanium. I always mix up my precious metals.