akirby

Had it on my 2013 Fusion. It saved me one day in unexpected extended stop and go traffic. I zoned out while moving slowly forward and had it not alerted me I would have bumped the car in front. It used to activate on my drive into work on a divided 4 lane road. I was in the left lane preparing to turn left at the 2nd traffic light. The road went downhill and then back uphill to the right. If traffic was backed up waiting to turn left at the first light it would activate since it didn't realize the road turned back to the right. At least I knew it was working.

Door cards.......... Toyota Suh-leek-a (Celica) - we call is Sell-ick-uh BMW Zed4

I’d say the fob is flaky. Try it with one fob at a time.

Never available in NA.

The instructions are in the owner's manual in the glovebox. If you don't have one you can get a pdf at owner.ford.com or www.motorcraftservice.com. You need two working fobs to program the 3rd.

Does the factory code actually work? Sometimes the digits are backwards. Did you try your new personal code after programming?

Yes on Titanium and ST models (not ST-Line) but only the front row.

Windshields have laminated glass. The other windows are normally tempered glass so they shatter into tiny pieces but some vehicles use laminated glass for the doors too to reduce noise. Both can be called safety glass.

I did one on our MKX. Pretty easy. Only hard part is running power. I tapped into the rear PowerPoint.

Some useful info here. https://www.f150forum.com/f2/lug-nut-torque-aftermarket-wheels-484176/index5/

Check with the wheel mfr.

You can also either copy and paste the image from your browser or copy and paste the URL to the image. Or save the image to your device and use "choose files" at the bottom left.

You can’t always believe quotes you read on the internet. —. Abraham Lincoln

The smart junction box controls the lights.

There have been many reports of replacement alternators being bad right out of the box, so that's a good possibility. The question is when it drops to 8V at the battery is it still 14.4V at the alternator or does it also drop to 8V? If it's 14.4V at the alternator but 8V at the battery then it's a wiring/connection issue. Also don't rule out a bad replacement battery - make sure they test the CCAs on it not just voltage. Also be aware the alternator may be variable output so it may not always put out 14.4V - could be less (controlled by the PCM). But I don't know if it goes as low as 8V and under normal operation it certainly wouldn't cause the check light.

What does it say in the upper right? If it says information you don’t have nav.

If you’re sure all 3 key fobs are not near the vehicle then I would guess someone added another fob somewhere to support remote start. The dealer can erase all keys and only program the ones you have.

Pretty sure that requires sync 4 which is coming for 2021 but 2020 has sync 3.

DON’T CLOSE THE DOOR ALL THE WAY. It’s that simple.

Replaced the purge valve.

Doesn’t always cause issues. Mine was just the code.

. Turn off what? It tells you when you read lamps are on. No need to turn it off.

Every auto parts store has coolant testers. $3 and up. https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/antifreeze-coolant-tester?filterByKeyWord=antifreeze&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

I wouldn’t recommend it. Most ports do power off at some point. Should be just as easy to connect directly to the battery

Test it. If it’s diluted too much it will show up.