akirby

Black cars look great - for about 15 minutes after they're washed. I had the bright idea to do black granite countertops on our kitchen island/bar as a contrast to the light brown main countertops. They look fantastic when they're clean but you really have to clean them every day to keep them that way. Needless to say we won't have any black countertops in the new house.

Best I can tell there should be $4K regular rebate plus $1K for Ford credit financing. Based on that the X plan price would be $36,199 so $36K is almost exactly true dealer invoice so that looks like a good deal. Sometimes you can get it for less than dealer invoice but not always. Find out the documentation fee. Shouldn't be more than $100 or so. That's the only other variable.

You can often get an extra $500 rebate for financing with Ford Credit, and there is no pre-payment penalty. You can go out and refinance it with your bank or credit union if you can get a lower rate. You might need to wait 2 or 3 months but that's worst case. It's easier to do the financing at the dealership also if that matters. Otherwise you'd need to get a buyer's order, take it to the bank and have them cut a check before you take delivery. If you have the option of 0% financing versus a rebate you're probably better off taking the rebate with a $20K down payment but you'd need to work out the math to be sure. Is $36K their "online price" after all discounts and rebates? Can you tell me the name of the dealership, their zip code and the last 4 digits of the VIN?

Until you have to replace one and can't find a single used wheel. Then you're back to the dealer for $1K - $2K for just one wheel. But hey - if you really prefer those wheels and you don't mind spending the money, who am I to argue.

"This one is for work. This one is for fun."

I was thinking new but even used at $2K is a lot more expensive than a brand new set of aftermarket wheels and you get far more wheel size and tire options on the aftermarket wheels.

But are they $4K nicer?

I'm saying that my gut tells me E-0 would yield better mpg than E-10 Premium.

I would think E-0 (pure gas) should yield better mpg than higher octane E-10 but that's just my gut feel based on E-85 performance..

Bingo. I've never read it though. I just service it once a year.

Even lawn mowers have Hobbs Meters.

The odometer was spinning too fast to read it anyway................

You can also go 18" or 19" aftermarket which greatly increases the tire options.

There have been reports of bad batteries on new vehicles so it is possible.

I can go days without driving my Fusion so I have to top it off with the charger once every month or two. I'm trying to do the other vehicles every 3-6 months just to be safe. It's really not optional these days given the electrical loads on new vehicles especially if they aren't driven long distances every day. I never get more than 3-3.5 years out of a battery anyway.

I'll be glad to test it but I don't find that true at all with my small pancake compressor. Even while it's running the air coming out is near room temperature. It might be true on larger compressors that run more frequently.

It's really simple - you always use the same PSI regardless of the temperature so you don't have to do any conversions. The temperature change affects the amount of air that it takes to reach 35 psi but it doesn't change the 35 psi reading (or whatever pressure you normally use).

You can find a class action lawsuit on just about anything if you look hard enough. We don't open it that often but we love the glass roof when it's not open.

The front of the trailer. The bigger the frontal area the more wind resistance and the harder the tow vehicle has to work.

I didn't see the wiring diagrams previously. It does appear that there is a separate channel for the front tweeters but not for the rear door speakers.

Stranger things have happened.....

Did you have your hands on the wheel when it turned? I haven't heard anyone say they lost control of the vehicle. Ford is usually pretty quick to recall something if it is truly a safety issue.

Isn't the car still driveable? If so then it's not a safety issue thus no recall. Besides - how would a recall help the situation?

Water Pump! Run away!!!

It fluctuates after you're up to speed? It will show the last reading until you get up to speed for a couple of minutes.