akirby

Balancing doesn't normally fix noise. You should be able to sell them pretty easily.

With auto CC you can just leave it on and set the temp accordingly. If the inside is the same temp as the outside it won't really do anything.

I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble or that you would notice the difference.

I hope almost all owners are using them when descending a steep grade, otherwise they're cooking the brakes. Outside of that I've found it mostly useful for downshifting prior to accelerating to pass. I had one of the first selectshift Ford vehicles - a 2000 Lincoln LS. It was more of a novelty back then but the pros and cons are still basically the same.

I believe so as long as you set the remote start climate control to auto. Check out the owner's manual yourself to be safe - www.motorcraftservice.com -> Free Information - Owner Information Edit - why would you ever turn off the climate control?

Yes on the factory remote start. You can set climate control to auto on the remote start settings and it should behave exactly as you described.

Excellent point.

www.motorcraftservice.com -> free resources -> owner information. Online PDFs which are searchable. No need to go to the garage or open the glovebox.

Theoretically yes but the problem is you don't really know for sure if that's the only changes. E.g. there could be frame or drivetrain changes as well that you wouldn't have. Would be better if you could find a Ford engineer who could confirm that's all you need.

Did you not look in the owners manual? It's all explained in great detail so you don't have to go searching. I assume you have manual mode PRNDM with the plus and minus buttons on the shifter? If so they work exactly like the paddles. In the mountains, put it in M and use the buttons to shift up and down as needed. When going down a steep long hill keep it in first or second gear to provide engine braking and stay off the brakes as much as possible. If you just have PRNDL with grade assist, put it in Low and use grade assist. It will work pretty well in most cases but not quite as good as being able to select and hold specific gears.

If it didn't come with a hitch then it doesn't have the factory tow package. 2000 lbs. with an aftermarket hitch.

Sorry I didn't mean specifically from a 2008 3.5. I was just saying that it's easy to get 400 hp out of a stock factory converter and in some cases like the Mustang 5.0 you can add a supercharger and get 700 without changing the factory cat (as far as I know). So you don't have to remove the cat to make big power.

If you can get over 400 hp from the stock exhaust then I wouldn't call it restrictive. But replacing it with a higher flowing CAT for a few more ponies is ok. Removing it entirely is not a good idea for a street car under any circumstances.

But there is no reason to remove the CATs - they're not a restriction to high performance.

I sincerely hope not.

If you have the factory towing package you can tow 3500. Without it the limit is 2000.

You can bang on tempered glass with a hammer sometimes and it won't break. But if you just tap it on the side it shatters. Ford does check very closely for impacts because that's still the most likely cause. Take your own high res photos. What the dealer tells Ford really makes a difference.

That's exactly what I was talking about in another thread about the wiring on my 2006 Fusion. There was a crossover/blocker of some sort built into the lower door speaker with wires going back to the tweeter. So essentially yes, it's a 2-way speaker with a remote tweeter. That means you're getting a full range signal from the head unit and can use your own crossover. Is this the Sony system? That one showed separate channels from the head unit for the front woofers and tweeters but a common channel for the rear doors.

Chain-yanker........

How would a shorter sidewall make it more prone to nail damage? I'm not getting it.....

For gosh sakes, stop calling it the break booster. It's BRAKE.

The fact is you can use anything that meets the published specification, synthetic or otherwise.

I had never heard of having to retrain the sensors in extreme cold. Interesting.

Did you actually check the tire pressure? With super low temps the actual pressure can drop several PSI if they were filled when it was warmer. You shouldn't need to reset anything.

That's common with Direct Injection engines from all mfrs.