akirby

From thefoeyouknow (former Ford technician):

I sent this to a couple of Ford techs on other forums. I'll let you know what they say.

Still not free if they're your clients......

E.g. - you fill up with gas and your odometer says 19000 kms. You drive until you need gas again. You put in 40 litres of gas and your odometer now reads 19,400 kms so you drove 400 kms on 40 litres of fuel. 40*100/400 = 10 litres/100km.

Definitely not normal. Hard to troubleshoot without a more detailed description of the event sequence.

Yes the weak cooling on the seatbacks is still there. Try it for yourself and see if it's a problem for you or not. I don't think they'll have a real fix for it until next year at the earliest. For us it's not a big deal. The manual switch for the steering wheel is on the main climate control screen. So hit Climate on the bottom row menu then you can toggle it on and off.

On the remote start the answer is yes for climate control and the steering wheel. I'm not 100% sure on the seats. Quality is average with some vehicles being almost perfect and some having fit and finish issues and other assorted issues. Most are fixed with a dealer visit. Engineering issues with the adaptive steering and water leaks and sync 3 seem to be fixed now so shouldn't be an issue on new ones. Squeaks and rattles aren't really an issue as they age - but some are delivered with them. Once again that's usually a one time fix. Long term issues are the PTU on AWD vehicles - seems to be improved but regular fluid changes are recommended. Suspension bits can wear out - control arms, etc. Door latches were an issue on the previous gen - remains to be seen on the 2015+ - so far so good on that one. The water pump is internal on the 3.5L engine and that can be expensive but that won't be an issue on the 2.7L Turbo. BAMR (big ass moon roof - engineering's nickname) is usually solid - only a few folks have reported a rattle. A few have shattered but all these failures or issues seem to be normal with most not having issues. From a functionality standpoint's it's fantastic. Definitely not perfect but even those with a few issues would probably say it's worth it if you like the vehicle otherwise.

The question should be what caused the cat to fail. That's usually caused by engine misfires which is why you're not supposed to drive if the CEL is flashing. Did you see a CEL at all or experience any misfires?

Long distance remote start and vehicle location is what I use the most.

That's an excellent point and exactly why I don't recommend using a locksmith to program a second key because some do simply clone the first key which will lead to exactly the situation described here.

Yep - looks like 245/60/18 is the minimum OEM size. I see plenty of good tires in the 245/55/19 size - Continental, Pirellis and several Michelins.

What Waldo is saying is that the spare tire is usually the minimum size wheel that fits over the brakes so use that as your guide and stick as close to the OEM tire size for that wheel diameter as you can.

Brakes should be the same but you should stick to OEM sizes. Tirerack.com will tell you the OEM sizes.

Yes, a loud chirp would be much nicer but obviously more expensive. And since this was supposed to be a federal requirement at some point I'm not sure whether it required the horn to be used or not. All you need to do is not close the door all the way.

You don't need a new hub but you do need to read this thread from the beginning.

I did clarify my statement with "in their right mind" which automatically leaves FCA out of the conversation. They probably won't be in business long enough to pay any claims. That said I am surprised they're offering it, even if it's only good for the contract purchaser and can't be transferred and doesn't cover high repair cost vehicles.

I think there were some problems with A7 cards. Check with the dealer - they should be able to swap it out for free.

I'm pretty sure it has to be configured by the dealer after it's installed using their IDS. Levittown Ford parts is a great source.

No mfr in their right mind is going to cover anything significant for the "life of the vehicle". It's pretty much impossible to estimate and account for that future liability from a bookkeeping perspective including keeping repair parts on hand. It's also impossible to legally define "life of the vehicle" the way you just did. At best you could expect 10 yrs/150K miles. But either way just remember this: TANSTAAFL You're going to pay for that type of warranty in the cost of the vehicle. You just have to factor in future repair costs on an older vehicle that's no longer under any type of warranty. For some that cost is a lot higher and may be enough to cause you not to keep it or not to purchase one. But honestly at that point the OEM mfr is way out of the picture and doesn't really care.

Nothing that would be considered remotely safe.

I'm glad you clarified Brake Jobs.........

You still didn't answer the question - did you verify that both of the original keys are still able to start the vehicle? If one of the keys no longer works for some reason that would explain why the procedure didn't work.

I think he's talking about the rear differential.

I Want Root Beer Badly?

According to Ford engineers I trust, the ptu fluid doesn't break down or need to be changed for 150K miles under normal conditions. They believe that manufacturing tolerances are leading to increased heat which then breaks down the fluid. Changing fluid when it hasn't overheated doesn't help. The trick would be to know when it's overheated and change it then. To that end I think they should have installed a temp sensor and triggered a CEL. I think they've focused on eliminating the cause of the overheating rather than putting a band aid on it. But it remains to be seen how successful they've been with the newer units. I do think this only affects a small percentage of vehicles but that doesn't help owners who are in that boat. I also think Ford should have extended the warranty to 100K on PTUs. I'm more worried about all the smaller problems that keep occurring with the Edge. On the Focus DCT - I had one and the problem that caused them to fail completely was fixed several years ago. Ours was still ok after 65K with just an occasional shudder. So it's not good but it's not as terrible as some make it out to be today. And they did extend the warranty to 100K including the TCM (which also went out on ours). Make no mistake I think Ford screwed up with the DCT and I'm surprised they're still selling it. But I don't think it's quite as bad as you think.