Jump to content

akirby

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    12,534

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    342

 Content Type 

Everything posted by akirby

  1. akirby
    I think the battery monitor needs to do its relearning before it will enable remote start.
  2. akirby
    Brakes! Braking power!
  3. akirby
    Battery is probably dead. Leave the jumper cables hooked up for a few minutes before trying to start it. The battery could be defective or there could be something draining it. If it's still under the 3/36k warranty the dealer will replace it free.
  4. akirby
    Correct.
  5. akirby
    Maybe you guys need glasses. I can see the blue vertical tach gauge just fine. Like I keep saying, this is a personal preference thing (which is fine).
  6. akirby
    If you have heated and cooled seats it uses the peltier device and fan in each seat for both. The device is not in the seat upholstery - it's external with the fan. The fan does run when heat is selected. I can hear it on my MKX. If you only have heated seats (front or rear) then that still uses the electrical element in the seat, no fan. The 2003 LS and Aviator and I presume the more recent old designs (Explorer, F150) worked just fine - no issue with airflow. The new design that debuted on the 2015 F150 does have an air exhaust issue which causes the seat back not too cool very well. It will require a redesign.
  7. akirby
    I glance at it occasionally but I certain don't watch it while I'm driving to the point that the design is a distraction.
  8. akirby
    Sorry but you are completely wrong. There is no ducting from the A/C to the seats and there is no heating element inside the seats. There is a fan and a peltier device on each seat that does both the heating and cooling. This debuted on the 2003 Lincoln LS and Aviator. Google it.
  9. akirby
    By that thinking a true car person wouldn't drive an automatic either. But if you ARE driving an automatic then why do you need to watch it?
  10. akirby
    Last night a guy in a pickup (dark, couldn't see what make or model) had a light bar in the lower grille. It was absolutely blinding.
  11. akirby
    It's not because the water pump is internal to the engine.
  12. akirby
    Of course the PTU is problematic. You could argue that Ford should extend the warranty but to imply that even the majority of vehicles have a problem is ridiculous. As for the class action lawsuit, chalk that up to ambulance chasing attorneys.
  13. akirby
    The 2.0L isn't as old. Higher mileage would be the 3.5L ecoboost engines in the Taurus/MKS/F150. The point is ecoboost engines are not more prone to failure or more short-lived than NA engines. They're designed to be turbo engines from the get-go just like turbo diesels that can easily go 300K.
  14. akirby
    I don't know - never used it myself.
  15. akirby

    2007 motor removal

    akirby replied to hill392's topic in 3.5L

    Slacker....
  16. akirby
    Exactly. There are benefits but they're so miniscule for normal driving they're not worth considering.
  17. akirby
    Those kinds of lights are illegal everywhere for on-road use. They're not DOT legal and for good reason.
  18. akirby
    I prefer a very precise Nitrogen/Oxygen blend (78% Nitrogen, 21% oxygen).
  19. akirby
    150K is the minimum that they test for. There plenty of ecoboost engines over 150K.
  20. akirby
    Can't be done - required IDS.
  21. akirby
    Other than the twin scroll turbo I think they change the head cooling design which was a problem with the old engine. The rest is pretty much the same.
  22. akirby
    Forscan cannot program keys, only enable remote start (if I read that correctly).
  23. akirby
    The 2.0L was recently modified but it's still used in Escape, MKX, Fusion, MKZ and Edge. All Ford engines are designed and tested to 150k miles - ecoboosts follow the same requirements as naturally aspirated engines.
  24. akirby
    It's akin to waking into a Casino with $1500 - at the end of the day you might go home with nothing, break even or win a few thousand. You might get lucky on one or two vehicles but in the long run, just like a casino, the house always wins because they set the odds (or in this case the price). It makes sense if you're on a fixed income and can't afford to pay out of pocket for a repair to finance the ESP with the vehicle - that way you're guaranteed only a small monthly payment. However, if you're purchasing it outright for $1200-$2400 then you should also be able to pay for an out of pocket repair, even a large one. And the chances of needing a high cost repair (>$3K) is lessened by the 5 yr/60K mile powertrain warranty. Then it's simply a gamble - are you willing to lose $1500 for the chance to save a few thousand? I never buy ESPs - I self-insure. On our last 5 vehicles which were kept 5-7 years each I saved at least $7500 by not buying the ESP and I only have a few hundred out of pocket in repairs total. If I had to replace an engine tomorrow I'm still thousands ahead in total cost. But you have to be willing to look at the total cost and not worry about a $2K-$3K repair bill. For me the thought of paying $1500 and potentially getting nothing in return kills me so I self-insure. If you want to gamble at least know the odds.
  25. akirby
    Whatever you use make sure it meets the spec as listed in your owners manual.
×
×
  • Create New...