akirby

Doesn't change the odds.

It doesn't reduce "turbo lag" because it doesn't change the engine parameters. It just fools the system into thinking you hit the pedal harder. The delay is in the pedal itself and/or the software interpreting the pedal response. Besides, there really isn't any turbo lag to speak of with ecoboost engines.

You should always gap new plugs yourself just to be safe.

Why wouldn't Ford put that kind of information in some easy to use booklet kept handy in the glove compartment and also available in online searchable PDFs?

In the tank I believe.

FWD or AWD?

Not a mile or two! Just a few feet to allow the gears to rotate a little.

Do whatever you want, just understand the options and the odds.

The only point we're trying to make is that on average it will be cheaper to never buy an extended warranty of any kind on any product. If you don't care about individual repair or replacement cost. If you want to gamble or are super risk averse or on a fixed income then get one but understand it's going to cost more in the long run.

Ah, but you're missing an important piece to that puzzle. If you take the $1500 you would have spent on the warranty and put it in the bank you'd be able to use that for the repair (at least a good portion of it) and still be able to pay for the vacation. And if you don't have any warranty repairs you can use that $1500 for a free vacation. On THAT vehicle, yes. But that's not going to happen on every vehicle. It's a bet either way, the difference is the odds are not in your favor if you bet the money. It's a simple question of odds and probability over time. For every policy that pays out $3k or more there are probably 5 or more that don't pay anything. If that wasn't true then they wouldn't sell the warranties.

We always thought it was because of the bumper trim not supporting the factory hitch rather than a mechanical issue. But nobody really confirmed that. Additional cooling is the biggest reason you want the factory tow pkg - adding the hitch is easy.

The old Sport with the 3.7L had the exact same restriction.

Read note #2 - there is no factory tow package for the sport model, thus it gets the same 2k rating as any Edge without the tow package. It's not the engine.

There isn't really a limit on the 2.7L - you just can't get the tow package on the sport.

I failed to mention the gambling aspect. On any vehicle you can certainly choose to gamble that it might need more repairs than the cost of the warranty based on past history. And you might break even or even win big. Just understand that it's a gamble - no different than putting $1500 on the roulette wheel in Vegas. You might lose it all or you might win big. But if you play the game long enough the house will always win. You should also always get the biggest deductible you can afford especially on car insurance. You'll save far more in premiums than you'll pay in deductibles unless you're causing several accidents per year, in which case you should take the bus or uber.

Try this if possible: Take the fob out of range. Lock the vehicle with the keypad. Make sure it's actually locked. Wait 5 minutes. Go back and see if it's still locked or unlocked (all without an in range fob). If it was locked at first but is now unlocked then you know it's the vehicle not a fob. I don't think they keypad on it's own can lock or unlock anything - it just transmits the code to the BCM/SJB. So the only way for it to unlock the vehicle accidentally is if you had just entered your code and then it thought you pressed another button to unlock all the doors. Once the code times out no button presses (actual or due to a problem) would unlock the door. I'm still thinking it's a fob problem, but that is easy to rule out if the fobs are not in range when it happens.

I can pay for a repair, even a large one. I can't pay for a new car if I total it. I can't pay for a new house if it burns down. You only buy insurance for things you can't afford. Self insuring is always cheaper in the long run - if it wasn't the Insurance companies and warranty companies would be out of business. It's simply a matter of how much risk you can take. Corporations don't buy car insurance normally - it's cheaper to just insure themselves. I also have life insurance but once I retire and have enough income from pensions, 401ks and SS I'll probably drop it. What I don't understand is why people freak out over a $2k repair bill but don't bat an eye at paying $1500 up front for a warranty they may not use at all or at least not for a few years. Is it just because it can be financed so it's only a few dollars per month? If you really can't afford a large repair bill then it makes sense to finance it with the vehicle. If you can afford a large repair bill every now and then, you can usually save money by self insuring. But you have to look at the total cost over all vehicles, not just one or two. Like I said I'd be perfectly ok with a $4k repair because I know I've saved over $8k already, so I'm $4k ahead. But I guess a lot of folks only think about monthly payments and not total cost.

First guess is the fob has a stuck unlock button. Try changing fobs. Might want to change fob batteries also. Don't think the vehicle battery would do that but you never know and if that's the original battery it's beyond time to change it anyway.

I moved it but left a link in the old forum.

CYA

06/30/2017 - 2017MY Fleet Final Order Date 07/20/2017 - 2017MY Last Day to Spec Change 09/15/2017 - 2017MY Job Last Date 07/17/2017 - 2018MY Order Bank Open Date 08/17/2017 - 2018MY Scheduling Begins 09/18/2017 - 2018MY Job #1 Date

If you got it through the Ford owner website then you have whatever is appropriate for your vehicle - nav or non-nav.

If you're ordering then it won't really matter. If you're buying off the lot then end of the month is best (end of year doesn't really matter except that it's also the end of the month). And then it really depends on the vehicle you want and what type of month the dealer has had - it's not always going to be better. Option 2 won't matter because the dealer won't book the sale or get the revenue until you actually take delivery. Best bet is to simply figure out what you want to order and either call or email several dealers and ask for their best out the door price on a special order. You'll have to take your chances on the incentives. You can also request a brochure online a couple of weeks before the vehicle arrives and you might get an extra $750 personal rebate. The price difference is only going to be a couple hundred bucks either way. If you want the absolute lowest price you'd need to find a vehicle that's been sitting on the lot for a few months and hit the dealer at the end of the month, but doesn't sound like you'd want that vehicle. I'd just do the price comparison above and order the vehicle the way you want it and don't sweat the extra $200-$300.

Pretty sure ETIS uses European date format, so May 6 may be correct.

Did the APIM come with the touchscreen or did you reuse the old one?