akirby

But that's my point. They weren't expected to fail like that so no provision was made for easy field replacement. If the design was proper they wouldn't need to be replaced.

You need an adapter of some kind to enable the steering wheel controls on aftermarket stereos. Try a google search.

A new Edge that came with factory nav. There are some options for replacing the apim or having someone else reprogram it if you really want to enable it. Do a forum search.

Shocking!

So there is the 1.0 3.5 and the 1.5 3.5 not to be confused with the 2.0 3.5 (which is the same as the 1.5 3.5) but not to be confused with the 1.0 1.5 in the Fusion.

The first gen 2.0L EBs were single scroll also but they don't have any turbo lag either. Because the turbos are small.

1.5?

Other than a hammer or wiring in your own switch, I don't think so.

It's not a matter of not making simple parts replaceable. A tone ring should almost never break like that in the first place. It would be silly to design something to be replaceable then never have to actually replace it. It's just not practical from a manufacturing standpoint. It does suck when there is a supplier defect or something causes a part to fail but I think that's fairly rare. Now if this was a Bronco that's expected to go off-road I'd expect a different approach to parts that might get damaged.

Why not just find a used 2015 2.7L Sport? Probably cheaper in the long run and way more power potential.

With the engine running it should be closer to 14V or slightly higher. Go ahead and replace the battery then get the alternator checked.

That usually means an alternator problem but if the battery is more than 2 years old I'd just replace it first anyway and go from there.

Which engine do you have? If it's the 2.0L ecoboost a loud ticking noise is normal and is due to the direct injection. If you have the 3.5L or it's more of a knock than a loud tick you should check the oil level first then have it checked by a mechanic.

Check the spare tire and jack.

Absolutely take the truck of necessary, but I would let the dealer know of it's going out of state.

For the record, neither the site owner nor any of the moderators that I know on this and all the other blueovalforums related Ford websites are Ford employees.

Huh? I don't work for Ford and I don't know anything specific. If I did I would say so. But I know that manufacturers can choose any operating parameters they want for their engines. So you have to ask yourself why they chose the higher temp thermostat if the lower temp provides more power and/or better mpg. Maybe it's only winter driveability in extreme climates, but at some point you do lose efficiency. It may or may not be a problem but I'd sure like to know that before I start changing it. But maybe that's just me.

Just saying there is always some kind of tradeoff, so make sure to take that into account.

Maybe the better question to ask is why Ford spec'd the OEM thermostat at the higher temp, given they could have chosen a lower temp. I don't think it's strictly for more heater output in cold climates.

Are you using the learn button on the opener when you program homelink? If you are then you might be wiping out the other codes accidentally. Once you learn the handheld OEM remotes you shouldn't need to learn any new ones. You just program homelink to copy the OEM remote.

We came very close to getting an Edge in TGTBB (or the MKX version) but ended up with Luxe Metallic which we also love. Great color.

Give me a brake.....

That would be a problem with the opener, not the vehicles. It probably has too many codes programmed so when you add a new one it replaces the last one. Try resetting the opener memory, then reprogram all active remotes using only one button in each vehicle for each opener. You may need to delete one of the manual remotes to allow all vehicles and keypads, etc. to coexist.

Another "Ford should offer an unlimited warranty for free" post.

Some do, some don't. It's a gamble. It may still have some of the bumper to bumper warranty left if it's less than 3 yrs old in addition to the powertrain 5/60K warranty. Some things do cost more now but a $2K+ repair before 7 yrs/100K is still relatively rare. If you don't mind paying for a big repair out of pocket down the road it's a good gamble to not buy the warranty. If that bothers you or you might not be able to afford it, get the warranty now but in the long run - on average - warranties always cost more than you save otherwise they wouldn't be selling them. Then again you can always get (un)lucky on one vehicle and beat the odds.