akirby

Once you get the original code you can add your own code.

2018 Edge Order Guide.pdf

The dealer can retrieve it for you or it might be visible on a sticker under the left side of the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel. It can't be changed.

When does this occur - at startup or after you've been driving at speed (> 40 mph) for a few minutes? If it's the latter then it's probably a bad temp sensor. The sensor can easily read that high after it's been sitting in the sun on a hot day or from residual engine heat. It is programmed to not change the previous temp until you've driven sufficiently to cool down the surrounding areas so you shouldn't see 125 on startup either.

That was way too hilarious to hide or delete!

Since the radio controls are also affected I would second the clockspring as the likely culprit.

2 words - rail dust.

Not sure about that part number with AWD but Dorman replacement assemblies have been problematic for a lot of folks. OEM is recommended despite the cost.

The warning doesn't go off until they're 25% low or around 27 psi. 30 is low but probably ok for a short period. Don't run less than 35 (on purpose). Some run 37-40.

Any type of chip is snake oil. Only a tuner actually works.

If by "hoot" you mean "unmitigated f*&$@ing disaster", then yes.

Let's call it a Gen 2.7 just to cause more confusion.....

Almost certainly the latter.

Tell me the issue again and let me see what I can do.

Sounds like a bad fan controller/assembly or bad connections. Both fans should be on when the A/C is on.

They are in bi-xenon setups.

Recalls are only for safety problems and this isn't a safety problem so no recall. There was a TSB instructing dealers to make some updates but most reported either no change or only a slight improvement. Have the dealer check it.

For that particular situation I can see where it would be beneficial especially at longer distances. However, at longer distances there is no imminent danger of a collision. Even at 60 mph you'd have to be pretty close to not be able to stop or avoid a collision. I'm not advocating removing them or turning them off once they're there.

It's the direct injection - almost all DI cars have a pronounced ticking sound but you can only hear it from the outside. My Fusion 2.0LEB is exactly the same. It's normal. I wonder what they did on the 2.7L to eliminate it?

There are too many variables in crashes to isolate the contribution of DRLs. How do you reconcile the notion of someone looking in the direction of an oncoming vehicle that is close enough that they can't avoid hitting you if you pull out and not seeing them without DRLs and then saying that if they had DRLs they would have seen them. Doesn't make sense to me. I can see it in low light but the solution to that is automatic headlamps that come on sooner.

The NHTSA looked at the data and decided it was not statistically significant enough to prove a correlation with reduced accidents. My personal theory is that if you're turning into a lane with an oncoming vehicle close enough to hit you and you actually look, you'll see it with or without DRLs. Most accidents come from people not looking at all in which case DRLs won't help. The exception would be dusk if someone forgot to turn on their lights but the solution to that is to mandate automatic headlamps that come on before it gets too dark. What happens with DRLs is that people see the headlamps on and think they have their lights on but they don't and they have no taillights which could be even more dangerous. Motorcycles are different because of their size and the fact that people are typically looking for a car.

I think I just threw up a little in my mouth......

The last theory I heard was that individual parts tolerances were adding up causing too much friction and heat. That would certainly explain why it's hit or miss. Maybe that's causing the initial seal failure.

The battery could still be bad. If it happens again just replace it.

Empty dry meat jar???