akirby

Ford buys the maps from Navteq or some other map company. Matt is correct - I think all the OEM maps are somewhat outdated. Probably costs less.

Inconceivable!

I believe the first year sports (can't remember if that was 2015 or 2016) were offered in FWD but now are AWD only.

It's not about thicker skin. It's called MODERATING a forum. You can't just drop in and start insulting and talking down to other members that don't agree with you. It's that simple.

I'm saying with regular maintenance it won't make any measurable difference whether you're using Mobil 1 or Motorcraft oil and filters especially given your low mileage.

You need to learn how to say what you personally believe in without insulting or demeaning those who feel differently. Or you can stop posting. Your choice.

I wouldn't call not wearing a seatbelt common sense. And that's enough of the insults.

Overthink much? Motorcraft filter, motorcraft 5w-20 oil. Nuff said.

I understand not wanting it in the first place, but if you're forced to get it and you're worried about it failing just don't open it. Even without opening it's worth it just to get the view IMO.

There may be a timeout period during which the vehicle will still start with the fob inside the vehicle. Try waiting at least 10 minutes next time if you test it.

What he was saying is true - when using Z plan the price is the Z plan price on the invoice plus the doc fee (limited to $100) plus tax, tag, title, etc. Period. No negotiation and nothing can be added to that price unless you want it (dealer extras/options like glass etching, mop and glo, etc.). Without Z plan they set the price. However it would be extremely rare for a dealer to sell vehicles below the Z plan price unless they're making it up in doc fees, financing or unwanted dealer options they force on you. This is where you have to be really careful. X plan is easy to beat. X plan now is around $150 above dealer invoice. However, Z plan is an additional 4% (roughly) below dealer invoice (around $1200). Now the dealer does get 3% holdback and some other incentives but A and Z plan are still way below what any normal dealer would charge. And Ford gives them a spiff check to make up the difference. So ask yourself this - why would a dealership turn down Z plan which gives them an extra spiff check to sell you the vehicle for less money unless they're trying to make it up somewhere else? I'd stick with Z plan to be safe and find another dealer. Also on their website they don't show the mfr incentives - they just lump everything into their "discount". That plus what you described sounds a bit shady.

I found it. Next time please include the dealer's name - makes it easier to find. Also the exterior is Magnetic, not metallic. Here is what's going on. The price he quoted you looks to be the going retail price. My local dealer has the same relative discounts. Essentially there are $4850 in rebates currently available (including Ford Credit) plus the normal dealer discount of $3500 or so which gets you to the $8K off MSRP that Jerry's is advertising on all their Edges. And I don't know any dealer that sells all their vehicles to the public at 4% below dealer invoice which is what Z plan represents (more or less). If you used Z plan you should still be an additional $1K cheaper. I bet Jerry's did not factor in all of the incentives on top of the Z plan invoice price. Here is the best way to find out. Have Jerry's do an actual Z plan price form which should show all the incentives, etc. Or go to another dealer and get Z plan pricing on a similar vehicle. This one at Sheehy Ford is within a few dollars: http://shop.ford.com/inventory/edge/details/2FMPK4G91HBC20841?zipcode=22312&year=2017&fyear=2017&ownerPACode=00070 You also need to check the documentation fee. Some dealers like to price low and add in a $800 doc fee to make it up. When using Z plan the doc fee is limited to $100. Can make a big difference.

Do you have the dealer info? Name, zip code and the last 5 digits of the vehicle VIN or a description of the vehicle and the exact MSRP? I'd like to look it up on the X plan website. There is only one Ford invoice and it shows msrp, invoice, A, Z, D and X plan prices. That doesn't sound legit.

I don't think I get chimes like that in my 2016 MKX. Anybody else?

Non-OEM replacements including Dorman have proven unreliable with some failing right out of the box. Motorcraft is recommended.

WD-40 is fine but it's temporary. Grease lasts a lot longer.

White lithium grease would be the best I think. You can get it in spray cans with the straw just like WD-40.

It does look like it's possible, but you need specialized software to reflash the PAM module with the active park assist code, then you need to use Forscan to hack the option data and you have to install the button to activate it and associated wiring harnesses which are probably way more than 150 quid. If you're really interested, here is a writeup for the Fusion (Mondeo) that should be similar. http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712&pid=118253#pid118253

It's not adjustable. You shouldn't be getting chimes when you start the vehicle unless you're not wearing your seatbelt. I think there is a small speaker in the rear for the rear hatch warning that sometimes goes bad but I don't think that's the same as the one for the seatbelts in the front.

From the menu

On the newer ones you can turn on the radio at any time so that must be why they changed it. I thought they always worked that way.

Concept is the same but ford actually calls it a PTU. It sends power to the rear differential. The rear diff then engages the rear wheels as needed.

Combining topics really only works when the topics are relatively new and short and it helps to direct all future comments in one place. Just doesn't work for longer and older topics. Besides, you would not want to read through a 200 page topic trying to find your answer. Easier to find 2 or 3 relevant shorter topics and read those.

Towing package doesn't affect the PTU. The Ford theory is that in some vehicles the cumulative tolerances of individual parts add up to too much internal friction that generates more heat. Extended use of AWD makes it worse. Once the fluid overheats it's toast. Newer PTUs are supposed to be better but I don't know if we have enough data to support that yet. Ford has probably sold well over half a million AWD Edge, MKX, Explorer, Taurus, MKS, Flex and MKT vehicles over the last few years so while the failures reported here may seem pervasive I suspect it's still a very small percentage overall.

Not to mention it would just be the same discussion over and over and over.