akirby

It depends on whether the engine software is designed to take advantage of higher octane by advancing the timing. Thats where the extra power comes from - has nothing to do with the fuel per se.

Ford authority reporting Escape goes away late next year. Presumably to make way for the new low cost EVs. Maybe they’ll extend the wheelbase on the Bronco sport and add a fwd street oriented hybrid.

Smart Junction Box

Doubtful. Escape is also on the endangered list.

Auto hold lets you step on the brake in drive then release the brake and the brake will hold until you step on the gas again.

It’s already discontinued. Stopped a few months ago. They're going to add Super Duty production there in 2026.

Play song Hotel California Play artist Eagles Play album Hotel California Or create a playlist and say Play Playlist. Should still work even for burned CDs. Worst case just edit the mp3 tags. Works great.

Check shocks

Oh no - what broke on your engine? 😂 seriously though - Our 22 Nautilus does it in D mode. Are you riding the brake?

There is some built in automation that will help in addition to sport mode when it senses you’re going downhill with the brakes on. I still prefer manual downshifting but it’s manageable without it.

I’ve owned an edge 3.5L and a MKX 3.7L in the past. I’ve also owned a 2.0eb Fusion and Escape and we currently have a 2.0eb Nautilus. My F150 is a 3.5eb with 470 lb/ft. I’ve driven an Aviator 2.7eb. The 2.0eb blows away the 3.5 and 3.7 in drivability due to the increased low end torque of the ecoboost turbos. It only runs out of steam above 5500 rpm but most don’t drive at WOT. 2.7 is definitely faster but most drivers would never notice or care about the extra power. They just don’t drive that way. So if you do drive that way and care, get the 2.7L. For everyone else the 2.0l is a great engine especially with the 8 speed.

Normally you install a t harness behind the apim that splits off the factory speaker wires - from the apim to the amp and from the amp back to the speakers. But you probably have to bypass the B&O amp. Crutchfield will show you what fits and give you wiring instructions. I’ve found tons of audio advice including the B&O system upgrades at f150forum.com. Make sure you get a DSP either separately or built into the amp. Makes a world of difference.

The reason voltage isn’t the right test is that you can put 8 AA batteries in series and get 12 volts but that won’t start your car.

Just download the pdf to your phone and you can do searches to find things even faster. Browse it on your computer or tablet at home. There is ZERO need for a printed manual.

Ask the chemists not me.

It’s about minimizing vapor at gas stations when filling vehicles and filling in ground tanks.

The difference is butane which has to be adjusted for high summer temps.

If the CCA is down significantly then voltage is irrelevant.

It’s a 12 volt battery. The alternator puts out over 14 volts while the vehicle is running but not all of that goes to the battery. What you should be checking is CCA as measured with a digital tester, Voltage can be fine but it won’t have enough amps.

Air filter has nothing to do with fuel economy on fuel injected vehicles.

If it doesn’t say Motorcraft it’s probably Dorman. There have been some that were bad right out of the box. Others have a flaky connector so try playing with the wiring connection. Turn on max a/c to test. If none of that works you may have to return it and get Motorcraft.

You can only turn it off until the vehicle is restarted either through the menu or the button. Thats by design, otherwise the EPA won’t use it during fuel economy testing. As for increased wear on turbos, that’s hogwash.

First rule of troubleshooting- undo whatever you did and go from there. Probably got some wires crossed.

It stops and forces you to hold it to close it as a safety measure. It doesn’t have a pinch sensor to stop it from closing on a body part.

$100/month for how many months? Sounds super expensive especially for partial coverage. And good luck getting them to agree to cover something. 3rd parties are notoriously difficult. That’s why we all recommend only Ford warranties ( or better yet keep the money in your pocket).