cal3thousand

I've got the same kit from them. Great recommendation!!!

I'll try it out soon, I'm getting out of work in an hour.

They snap into the grille from the front. The inserts have a tab that fits into a slot in the grille. To remove them, you will have to pull the bumper and release the tab from the back. $200 sounds about right to do it all. Unless do all the installation yourself...

I'm getting a behavior I've never had before (2.11) until recently: When I turn on BT streaming, a screen shows saying "Bluetooth Audio Stream Detected" and nothing else. No sound, no onscreen controls. Is there another update? or should I have them re-do 2.11?

Have a blast!

I'm the only one that drives my car, so I guess I'll have to try and test it with someone else this weekend. I'll report back my personal findings.

That's a good success story. Thanks for the share

I've heard of this issue happening, but I don't have it.

There's something you can add to your car that will simulate the function: http://www.kptechnologies.com/products.php?year=Universal&make=Universal&model=Universal scroll down to "reverse mirror tilt module". There are standard and deluxe models for doing one or both windows.

Richy, I tried the DG Aquawax on your recommendation and I love it. Actually gave the bottle to my Dad for his car since he's also enamored. Once my life settles down, I promise to do the Volvo with the DG Beta and write it up soon.

That's good work around for these folks in a pinch. But really they shouldn't have to. We were sold on the technology, it should work (and work well, at that)

I think it's the coloration of the tint. A charcoal would have looked less so... IMO

Exactly! Longevity. They also have to tune the cars for the large range of people that will buy them. There's always that guy that will inevitably beat on his engine every chance he gets. Turbos are abusive to engine oil as well as the transmission (torque) compared to their NA counterparts. These engines have to be ready for that jerk that stomps on his pedal and flies into his parking spot and shuts off his turbo engine immediately. I understand that Ford developed the hell out of these turbo units to withstand abuse, but oil coking is still a reality. And although 300hp+ from 2.0L is technically possible, the question again is the reliability of the engine and all its extra moving parts in the hands of "new" turbo drivers.

should be the PBAP (phonebook) make sure it is set to download your phone book automatically. (in BT settings on car)

The above advice is good. I would look at the piston itself. Maybe that 3-4 mm was not enough to see the issue. I would also check mounting bolts. It doesn't make sense that the piston force is not causing the outer portion to slide and make contact with the other side. Good luck either way! I'm interested to see what comes of it.

Fair enough. But on simple questions, give us some time to answer it. You'll be surprised.

Just make sure to remember that you reset your oil life indicator 3000 miles late on this change and not to rely on it.

You should be able to to find that information if you log into SyncMyRide.com and get it linked to your VIN. Btw, you don't need 2 threads for the same thing.

Thanks for the compliment. I fixed your emoticon for you.

That sucks! But at least she didn't go through the window and hurt anybody.

I tend to agree here, but the question is reliable power. I don't know about the manufacturing tolerances of these vehicles so I can't really speak to how much power can be had from these engines. How I see it, Ford is already squeezing a lot of power out of the 2.0L unit at 240HP. Having said that though, I'm pretty sure it's the Ford Duratec 2.0L unit that also powers the fiesta rally cars that claim 600-800 HP running 2-3 BAR boost.

Sorry for your loss. Welcome to the forum! You'll probably hear more MPG battles stories than races over here, but its a fun bunch still. Nice car! Looking forward to seeing your mods.

Anyone else notice that AM voice channels are almost too rich? I've been noticing moments where the upper frequency ranges of speech are annoying. It seems to sound better ( to my ears) when in a bad reception spot as the sound is dumbed down bit

The 17s are 235mm 20s and 18s are 245mm and the 22s are 265mm I don't see the 10mm increase in width having that large of an impact on the contact patch. Best compromise, in that case, would be 18s at the same width as the 20s.

The recommended points are in your manual. As normal FWD unibody vehicles, the pinch welds before the rear and after the front wheels are recommended. Get an adapter for your jack to accept that point if you don't already have one. If you can't get your hands on one, I would use the floor jack on the reinforced subframe points by the control arm to lift, then put a jack stand on the pinch weld.