cal3thousand

How come you don't consider the Homelink visor?

What size halos are those? I assume you went through the trouble of dismantling the headlights and re gluing?

Seems like you need a Wagon. I would go with the Subaru Legacy Wagon in your case. Just re-read your last sentence. I now change my recommendation to BMW. 5 Series Wagon.

Please take this statement back. DST is one of the most beautiful ideas ever. If you want to remove DST, go ahead and make ALL times DST times. In Southern California, it makes a HUGE difference. Right now, sunset is 5:30 PM. I work inside all day, so I don't get my Vitamin D. In Summer with DST, it gets dark at around 8:00 PM. That's enough time to get out of work and enjoy some of the Sun. And let's not even start with the energy savings...

I had to update manually as well. I am assuming that the DST date that it uses to calculate the change over date is wrong. We've recently (in the last 5 years or so) changed the DST effective dates to include more daylight savings. Maybe the old dates are being used.

What's the red glow in your projector? It looks very cool. I'd like to pinch that idea.

It's available on the little screen to the right of the speedo. I'm glad they removed it. I dislike seeing the redundancy

I don't necessarily agree with the $500 but I would make the agreement to take the KBB value lost during that time period. So, take the KBB value of your car now and when you trade in. Agree to pay them, at most, the difference (since that was your portion of depreciation).

Probably risk (credit card fraud)

$3700 - $4200 ? Wow that's a lot of money. I would (personally) pocket that cash. If you end up with any paint issues, that money will go a long way in repainting a vehicle. And if you have comprehensive insurance, it will cost even less out of pocket if and when something arises.

Bird bombs will etch your clear coat if left too long (they are very acidic). How long was the poop there? You might be lucky and able to remove the etching with a polish or swirl remover.

My display dims quite a bit when the lights kick on. Maybe pay attention to the brightness of your dash or nav to see if your lights are on? Dim display = lights on; bright display = lights off.

It's safe to assume that they are one unit. But not guaranteed. Maybe find the part number and see?

I don't need anymore paperweights, but my cousin might want the Epic depending on the condition and price. I'll PM ya

Excellent! thank you.

Thanks for sharing that. I can see that they took their time to make it pretty. Wonder when they will actually start to do some real work. This list is still a joke. Only 4 T-mobile phones, c'mon.... I'll give you $20... hahahha

Nice share.

Bump for updated coupon code for Halloween.

I would recommend staying away from covers as they tend to scratch clear coats. I would recommend using Collinite insulator wax 845 to protect it from the elements. http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html

Very nice choice! Congrats!

I'll have to take you up on this soon

I took the 18s on the limited for numerous reasons. But that doesn't mean I can't spin your current situation to make you feel better. Look at it this way: SEL costs $893 to get the 20s and Limited costs only $761. That's the only way to feel better; you have to completely forget that you could save $761 and some hassle with the 18s on the Limited.

I'm happy with opting for the 18s. I'm sure I would have curbed the 20s by now

Let me go ahead and fix this nicely for you (before Akirby gets ya). If you mean no pun, then you should spell it "breaking" (destroying) the bank as opposed to "braking" (stopping) the bank. OK [/wannabemod-mode] Currently, I don't know of any real upgrades in the aftermarket that won't break your bank. Personally, I would get stock rotors for as cheap as I can find and get some company to slot and coat them and cryogenically treat them. I would expect to pay a couple hundred more than a standard set of rotors, but they will last much longer and resist cracking and warping.