cal3thousand

It's regional and based on the climate in the area. I wouldn't be surprised to see summer blends in So Cal as the ambient temps have been 60°F ~ 80°F. Highs in the 80s all this week downtown. How's the air in AK?

Not completely plug and play. You would have to either use a DRL control box OR a relay. This would be tapped into it's own power supply and signaled by either a switch OR ignition circuit. If you can crimp a couple connectors and understand how to wire a relay, it should be a 30 minute mod. The only thing I'm foggy about is the structure of the current light bar and the mounting of the new lights. I'll get under there this weekend (hopefully earlier) and post up something if someone else doesn't beat me to it.

These would be real easy to install and would provide even light across the glovebox. Most glovebox lights I have seen (even in luxo whips) get blocked easily by a large item shifting to the side. http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/DRLFOG-LED/Universal/V-LEDS-5K-Pure-White-p9561957-1-3.html Cut a strip of about 6 LEDs and run a couple small wires and include a switch from another car to activate. A 6 inch strip is under 5 bucks.

I think they would use an ABS blend or a Polyuretane or Polypropylene of some type. Check this stuff out: http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/pro_market/node_GSJ0GZ223Nbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_CX2WXLSHJ7ge/gvel_H218BH2BV8gl/theme_us_attachmenttapes_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html BTW... what you painting? PM me if its still a secret

Check here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/6920-edge-2011-drl-led-bar/

Agreed. My next lease and the buyout of this current vehicle rest on its performance. Hopefully the early adopters will see a 3.0 written by Microsoft and continued support.

My mileage is starting to increase as the break-in progresses. Getting about 18.9MPG right now on 80-90% city driving.(approaching 1600mi). You can break 20... coast the crap out of it before lights and make any yellows you can.

Now that I look at them again, it is definitely more pronounced. I think he just mounted them right behind the current bar using the bar as a diffuser.

If you want more braking performance, don't settle for the life-timers. Upgrade to a higher friction compound. Akebono Euros (IMO) strike a good balance between comfort, cleanliness, and braking performance AND price. If you are really gung ho about more brake performance, an upgraded brake booster will do TONS (Ford upgraded in 2011, not sure about cross fitment). But most bang for you buck would be a quality brake pad set.

For those wanting an indication of headlights, you could get a small LED installed (not fun, I know, and cons are aplenty) that runs on the same circuit to indicate that the headlights are on. A really trick mod would be a red LED hidden inside the headlight switch. So when the headlights are on, you will see a red backlighting instead of the normal bluish greenish color when the headlights are on.

Believe it or not, I used Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor to polish the clear coat on my last car's taillights (tinted) and buffed it to a mirror finish. This was after going at the clear coat with wet 2200 grit paper.

The factory bars are LEDs. I think the OP wanted to install bars on a vehicle not so equipped from the factory. He wanted to know what was involved; plug and play versus cut and splice. Now, yogregb, has installed 5000 K lights (I assume that the stock is 4300 K) making his a bit bluer. We're waiting on his reply.

Very nice. Looks like I'm going to make an appointment soon.

+1

Congrats on your new ride. By your SYNC issue description, I think you have version 2.7 still. Version 2.8 has been reported to fix a handful of those issues including the zombie audio thing where it turns on after receiving any voice command.

As soon as you turn on the parking lights or headlights, the dash will dim. There's no work around unless you're willing to get in there an replace whatever emitter is in there. If it's LED, you could get one that puts out more light. I assume that the LCDs have built in back lighting that would be nearly impossible to mess with; whether CCFL or LED. Another idea would be to trick the system to 'not dim' when the light switch leaves the off position.

Can anyone that has this issue post a video? It would really help things out.

I don't know of an included function to do that. Problem is with the roof, it doesn't even close the last 6 inches without you holding it. I think it might have to do with sensing an obstruction. If the car is moving fast, there can be enough wind resistance to make the car think there is an obstruction. And maybe they couldn't come up with an elegant solution that was cheap enough to cover both situations. If you were to get an aftermarket alarm to control those functions, it would have to be smart enough to deal with the way the roof opens and closes. If you wanted it to do just the windows, that would be easy enough. A couple DEI window modules will handle that. They will also give the windows, on which they are installed, the auto up / auto down feature. Each module can control a pair of windows and will require a separate output channel on the alarm. Of course, you would need an alarm with controllable outputs.

Correct. Winter blends include ethanol or MTBE that helps reduce emissions but is not as energy dense as gasoline, so you lose some MPG.

highly improbable... and highly likely the reason for their recommendation. That's why my phone is always ready to give them a little 720p proof.

Buffing with wax will only fill it in with wax. You need to get a polish of some sort that has "cutting" ability. An easy one to find is Nu Finish Scratch Doctor. Its mildly abrasive with some good polishing ability. You might need to run over it a couple times with this stuff, but I think it should work.

Go to a site like Bankofamerica.zag.com and get the invoice pricing and have one of those dealers contact you. If you go any other route, I would suggest finding a fleet sales or Internet Sales person. They generally operate on a volume basis and can extend you the better deals. In Canada, get a Costco membership and save a thousand bucks (i've heard). You could also use them to get you leads on dealers willing to bargain.

I'm going to start frequenting that site; You (blankster) seem to find a lot of good inside information there.

If GPS is involved, it would have to be tricked or the Firmware would have to be hacked to remove the protective code bits. Not looking too good, but hopefully something develops

Most of the stuff is still development. Tire rack has lowering springs, but dampers are scarce. Not sure if there is a fully kitted exhaust available. I heard someone here stating that the 2010 Gibson kit was a no go on his AWD due to routing and the rear diff.