cal3thousand

I did my last car's grille (Volvo 850) in Plastidip. It's been 3-4 years without a single chip. Cleans real easily too. I treat it rough with brushes etc too. Thing about Plastidip, to do it right you should scuff up the surface with sandpaper first. It will help adhesion. Then, about 3 coats. Make the 1st one light. If you want another alternative, go with 3M Scotchprint 1080 matte black vinyl. I just ordered 2 - 1'x5' sections for about 45 dollars shipped from eBay to wrap the grille. Main benefit to me is the ability to remove and go back to chrome easily.

I've always like a good Magnaflow straight through.

yogregb did it. We presume that he installed the lights behind his current bar. I was going to check behind there and see what kind of room there is. Seems to be just 2 hex to remove by the wheel well for access. Will probably do that this weekend. search DRL light bar here and on Google to find out the type of thing he used. They were about $150.00 for the knock off philips-type DRL led bars.

I have a keychain that covers it perfectly...well...almost :

Select a temperature you like, then hold the MyTemp 'button' on-screen until it changes color.... maybe 3 seconds +/-?

Those would be interesting to see; its a good looking design. $13.89 a PAIR is an awesome price if they are bright. I wonder what color temperature white it is.

I decided toss in another set of LEDs that I had purchased from V-LEDs.com into my license plate sockets. The other ones that I had in there didn't match and it was driving me nuts being the only LEDs that I actually get to see often. (so far) First LED set from a random eBay merchant (probably a drop shipper) can be seen in the first post. Here is a quick pic that I snapped after installing these bad boys in (NOTE: I also took 5 minutes to flip the left license bulb housing around; I cut a matching relief on the left side with a pair of tin snips; the light is much more evenly spread now): V-LEDs - 194 5K 6LED Flank - http://www.v-leds.co...764848-1-2.html - $8.99 a PAIR Here is the output: For side-by-side comparison of the eBay light: Here are the eBay LEDs for construction reference: Here's a new shot of the ground and wall spill: OVERALL IMPRESSION: These lights are really nice; not too bright and not too expensive. After looking at my overall color temperature scheme, I am going to move these lights to the interior and order 6K Kelvin lights for all external lights, leaving the 5K Kelvin lights for interior. I will take some pics of these particular bulbs in the front maps light sections and share soon. Keep checking back!

Latest deals on any sites that WE know: v-leds: For Halloween Only!!! 20% OFF with coupon code SPOOKY20 Posted by SELAWD2011: By the way.. here is the new vleds discount code : OMT15... expires this week however (posting 7.26.2011) V-LEDs.com - 15% OFF - until 6/10/2011 Code: VLEDS15 Retro-Solutions.com - % unknown - valid until? Code: EDGE

Hey folks, In the name of saving time and effort for those interested in LED conversions, I have bought a few examples of REVERSE BULBS #921 to try out and give you my opinions. I tried few different options from 2 vendors: v-leds.com (not affiliated) AND reported spam link (they were nice enough to include a return label for the ones I didn't want) The "bulbs": 1) Retro-Solutions 5W Cree - http://www.retrosolu...-REVERSE/Detail - $39.99 for the PAIR 2) Retro-Solutions - multi directional - http://www.retrosolu...-T13-LED/Detail - $10.99 for the PAIR 3) V-leds - 6K WHITE 4 M-SMT 2W HIGH POWER BULBS - http://www.v-leds.co...187987-1-2.html - $19.99 for the PAIR Findings: In trying to find a good affordable solution to matching LEDs, I bought a few options, but honestly wish I had more choices. After doing the work, I feel as I am not 100% satisfied of ANY of these emitters and will likely be updating this thread with more pictures as I continue the search for what pleases me. I only ordered one set from v-leds because they were out of stock for the 6,000 Kelvin in the other multi-directional style . First, lets start with WEBSITES: V-LEDS.com is obviously the higher volume website and it shows in their presentation. They have color temperatures clearly posted along with output ratings on a 5-star scale as well as numerous reviews on each item. What's also good about this site is their color consistency; they understand that there's a HUGE difference in so-called "white" colors. They also offer each bulb in various colors and variations. They offer warm whites (3500 K), white whites (5000K), and cool whites (6000K) in addition to amber, red, and a few other colors. They've been doing this for a while and it shows. If you want consistency, go here. Be warned they are not the cheapest supplier available, but you get the quality you expect. Retro-Solutions.com being a smaller volume site has some advantages to our forum especially in the Customer Service arena. We benefit from having a real person that is on the website and listening. For the average person looking to replace a couple LEDs, this site can provide a good resource. Unfortunately, I would not be able to recommend them to a person that is into detail or "picky" about things matching across your entire vehicle. PACKAGING: The packaging for both orders were adequate for shipping, but retro-solutions actually put theirs in a box. +1 to them. Not sure if this is standard for them or if my special request received a special box. I received both packages on the same day from USPS even though V-LEDs is quite closer to me than Retro-Solutions distance-wise (WA to CA versus CT to CA) (another +1?). V-LEDs has their own Electrostatic Discharge bags which is great as most of their products are bare boards without extra plastic bodies. You can tell by the soldering on the boards that they are very robust. Onto the bulbs: Set #1 from retro-solutions is a 5W emitter that has some optics on the front to control light spread. Unfortunately, I feel that the optics focus the light too much and that none of it comes off the reflectors. It is hard to tell in the photos as my cellphone can't show the detail due to the focused intensity. But you will be able to notice this in the Back Up Camera photo (V-LEDs #3 on the DS and Retro-Solutions #1 on the PS): As you can see in the BU cam photo, the retro-solutions #1 doesn't illuminate the ground until 3+ feet away from the car and puts out a fairly straight and narrow beam while the V-LEDs #3 acts more like the stock incandescent as seen here: I didn't even include a shot of the retro-solutions #2 emitter as I was running short on time (wife and kid hollering) and it was clearly not as strong as stock. They made a nice glitter in the housing, but it was just not bright enough for back up duty. In the end, the V-LEDs #3 (IMO) outperforms the 2 options from retro-solutions at a much better price. I would say that the $19.99 pair is actually good enough to use, and actually an improvement to the stock incandescent, but not "ideal" in my mind. I will send ALL the emitters back to their respective vendors. After some more driving at night, I am actually quite happy with these V-LEDs #3 units. Reason being, I cannot see the point in spending an extra $30 on these lights. That would be more than double the price of these lights and the difference might not be worth it. Looks like I'll be making up my mind in the next week or so. What is on my car now for the time being: (I know the license plate bulbs don't match, I'm working with the eBay vendor to send me a new set. I bought 2 pairs and none of them really match each other in color temp. DON'T buy from eBay unless you are ready to do some waiting and emailing and swearing etc) I also plan on ordering 2 options from V-LEDs : http://www.v-leds.co...478377-1-2.html for $19.99 - reasonable http://www.v-leds.co...526829-1-2.html for $49.99 - OMG! really? 50 bucks?

My coworker showed me this awesome clip and I thought I would share: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SjX7A_FR6g&feature=player_embedded

OP: I just came up with an idea for more fuel efficiency: Nitrogen tire fill. I personally haven't used it, but I've heard that it helps

Thanks for clarifying. I have said my part to the OP. Hopefully others will respond to him in like fashion.

Dave, Welcome to the site. To have one touch close, look into getting a DEI 530T. It's made by the makers of Viper etc and will give you one touch close and open. You might be able to use 529T for the BAMR, check it out. And about this site. It's a site geared towards Edge owners and not necessarily "Enthusiasts" of cars or turbos or tech or HIDs like some established niche sites, so it's a little light on the DIY and tech info. It's also in an infancy of sorts as Edges have only been around since 2007 and it only shares its chassis and drivetrain with one other vehicle: MKX. But some of us are here everyday trying to improve the content.

I've read your 2 posts, and come to the conclusion that you're a funny guy

Smart post... thanks for that.

That makes sense... thanks for posting back your findings for others.

Putting -1 on all my comments that you find is quite petty and childish... but I can play that way too.

My tone has not changed. Read again. YOU changed your tune when akirby stepped in. My tone towards akirby is different than towards you due to respect that he actually knows what he's talking about. I answered the OP's questions and you tried to put your 2 cents in and tell me "its all wrong" - quote, unquote. Additionally, akirby and I have tried to use understanding of closed-loop EFI systems to explain things to you, but you insist on linking to some vendors' claim sheet to "prove" yourself and defend your reasons of bashing my reply to the OP. Akirby already explained to you that putting 91 in your car will allow it to advance timing or use less retard. Under normal driving, 87 is best suited for this engine (no one is arguing that). But under conditions of a hot climate and a hot engine, for example, 91 would help reduce the chances of pre-ignition and/or detonation. This would allow the engine to advance timing and use more of the peak pressure. Ford is stating warranty "may be void... if the wrong fuel is used...." . Which mostly applies to fools putting racing gas (104 Octane) in their car. You honestly think Ford can void your warranty for using 91 pump gas? One more time: get real! Magnuson-Moss states that they would have to be able to prove that it directly caused the engine component failure. There's numerous people that throw away their money on Premium fuel and not damaged their engines. I have YET to hear of an engine component named - and properly explained - in this thread or elsewhere that would be in jeopardy for using 91. Since you like links so much, here's one for you: http://en.wikipedia....i/Octane_rating Please read the whole section that includes this excerpt: ...Retarding the ignition timing reduces the tendency of the fuel-air mixture to detonate, but also reduces power output and fuel efficiency.. also, find me the section that says damage to an engine or component may occur - or any other viable non-vendor source you can Google up. EDIT: spelling and clarification

At 65MPH you may be hearing some small suspension creaking due ground fluctuations moving your suspension. Have them check all the bushings and maybe drive in quiet neighborhood with your window down to see if you can hear it at lower speeds.

Some say that v2.10 is the latest. My car shipped with v2.7. Some have gotten v2.8 and reported less bugs etc.

Apparently only Sprint one's work right now.... and a limited few at that.

Now that 22" are a stock size from factory (optional) and 20" are nearly "normal", tire prices on these have come down. But these are still 22" with some meat. Get a 22" down to 30 series and see what that costs ya.

Ford has had tire issues in the past with some suppliers. It would be interesting to know if other cars with this tire as stock are having similar issues.

I've been trying to figure this one out myself. But from observation, it seems that the engine will kick down the transmission if going down a grade and I feather the brake. Could be in my head, but I'll continue to test it. If I really need the engine braking, I will throw it in Manual and downshift on my own.

"...SOME people believe what they want to" other's believe in Science and observation.