cal3thousand

Well put.

Bumpity

It's called bufetting and happens to MANY cars as others have indicated. Either crack another window or the roof or blast the fan to equalize the pressure.

Actually I did have a look. While wrapping my grille in vinyl, I pull the front bumper cover and had a good look back there. There's enough room in there to mount a desktop computer if you wanted. Unfortunately, my camera (phone) was acting up that day so I only have one image of it: This shot was from the wheel well with the liner pulled back. You could get to this point on each side without taking the full bumper cover off (although it takes only 10 minutes after the first time). You can see where the pigtail connected to there at the bottom of the light bar. The LED sits in there firing upwards shooting a beam the length of the bar. There are about 4 clips holding the whole unit in (I didn't venture far enough to take them out yet as I was busy wrapping the grille). Looks like you could remove just the grey plastic and cut out (dremel) a section to fit your light bars in back and fire them through the bar. Plenty of room to mount a relay if you wanted to change how the lights were controlled. I'm thinking about putting some LED bars in there with a controller that would display a "power on" sequence on start up. We'll see. Which LEDs did you purchase?

with some wiring work it is very possible. You need to split the brake/turn from a 1 bulb into a 2 bulb setup.

window trim?

Call the guy and ask.. tell them your story outright and let him know your concern that we discussed and see what he says. If he sounds like he's handled the issue before, let him do it. If he sounds like he's still green, call another BB. They should have the modules on site, but bringing your own will probably net you a savings of some sort. They might want a little extra to install it, so call ahead and maybe get them to verbally agree to include it.

Will do this weekend buddy. If we do find out that it's compatible, how do you suggest we go about a trade that limits each of our risk?

I'm sorry to hear your issues. I'm glad you understand that these issues are due to bad dealerships and not directly Ford's fault (although indirectly still is there fault) I'm not sure the best way to find a good dealership for service. My plan of attack would be to get a list of potential dealers by distance first. Then, call the service managers of each one starting from the nearest. Tell them your story that you already have written out. Let them know that they have a chance to earn a new customer and ask them directly : "Why should I choose you over x,y, and z?" naming off the next 3 on the list. Make sure this is the MANAGER you are talking to at each place. Then choose the one that has the best answers for you.

5K is just fine. With the filter and oil combo set by Ford, you should theoretically go 10,000 miles. So between 5K and 10K is good. If in doubt, check the oil. You don't deliver pizzas in that thing do ya?

I can't wait

Call an Internet sales department and tell them you have x-plan and you want the price on a particular Edge on their lot. All they need is the VIN to give you x-plan price. Don't let them tell you otherwise. I did this and got 3 quotes for 3 vehicles on one call. Took about 5 minutes with my Sales Lady.

With Best Buy, make sure you get the most experienced installer there. Ask him about the PATS system and if he's installed into a system with factory Keyless Push Start without leaving a fob behind. If not, I would call around to another Best Buy and talk to another installer. As a company, BB will always make sure you are getting what you paid for. But it's up to you to know what you should be getting to make sure they give it to you. (I just reread this jacked up sentence, but I'm going to leave it and hope you understand me )

I have an issue that I feel is hardware related similar to your USB issue. Occassionally when shutting my center console, I get a *ding* and the Nav says "SD card fault"... and Nav is not available. I have to pop the SD card out and back in to get it to work. Anyone else seeing this behavior?

What little birdie told you that?

You can really go wrong with OE. There's no need to shell out the extra bucks for the K&N unless you consider your car a severe duty machine. If you beat on it like it were a Police cruiser or other fleet vehicle, consider K&N. Otherwise, it's like bringing an AR-15 to a fist fight.

You mind me asking where you had them cryo'd?

My Review is UP! http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/7780-intro-tech-ultimate-sunshade-review/

Background: Website purchased: AutoAccessories Garage (http://www.autoaccesoriesgarage.com) Date Ordered: 6/21/20112:40PM PDT Date Arrived: 6/28/201111:00AM PDT Shipping Costs: $ FREE $- Drop shipped from Intro-Tech in Ontario, CA Shipping Carrier: UPS Link: http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com//Interior-Accessories/Intro-Tech-Ultimate-Reflector-Sun-Shade?utm_source=order-first-time&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=order-confirmation In my last car, I had the SunShield shade (~$40, iirc) and was fairly happy with it. It kept the cabin cool and fit well. But I was always looking for a way to prop it up in the middle as it would sag due to the lack of support. With any roll-up sunshade, you have to expect some sagging in the middle. With the Edge, I wanted to make sure that no sagging was going to take place. It has a VERY large windshield and a sagging shade would real bad. After searching everywhere for a shade that met my requirements, I finally found Intro-Tech and their "Ultimate Reflective Sunshade". Every site that sells these things has them listed at $59.95 with some offering free shipping. I suggest buying from vendor out of your state that offers free shipping since it will be custom made and drop shipped anyway (to save from taxes). About the shade from the company: Each Intro-Tech Reflector Sunshade is custom-made to your exact vehicle for a perfect fit and maximum windshield coverage. It features a 6-layer design (graphite felt,1/4" thermal foam board, 2 fiber layers, air cushions, and Mylar) that isboth durable and insulating. The Reflector also includes a storage bag so youcan keep it clean and secure while you drive. Your Intro-Tech Ultimate Reflector Sunshade is backed with a Lifetime Warranty. I absolutely love the shade. And for this price, it had better be a love thing! There are a couple things people always ask about, and that's fitment and rigidity. It fits nearly perfectly. There are 2 small gaps, one oneach side that is about 5mm wide and a rather large cut out for the mirror to fit. Since the shade is absolutely rigid, they needed to make the mirror cutout larger so you can install the shade without bending it. Here's a couple shots of what I'm taking about: About rigidity, take a look at this picture and keep in mind that there is nothing holding it up and it is nearly flush with the windshield: Features I like: -The fit is awesome -The materials are of the quality you would expect at this price. -It's two sided, so you can use the dark side in winter to absorb and keep heat in your car! -Comes with a pouch to hold it (although the pouch is a "2-sizes-fits-all" type deal and is meant to accommodate even larger shades) -It folds quickly, way faster than the roll-up with velcro. (Once you fold up your mirrors you just "collapse" it back to a stack while resting on the dash and then stick it in the pouch) -It keeps the car really cool. Folded: Things to consider: -It is very large, but that's due tothe size of the Edge's windshield. Any shade worth anything will be this large. -It costs $59.95. That's a lot for ashade, but this thing is SOLID and my dash/leather are worth it. My Rating: * * * * * / 5 I would recommend this to another Edge owner or any other car owner for that matter. If you care about your comfort, dash and rest of your interior and/or want a quick privacy shade, this is for you! It has the added benefit of being useful in the winter and comes with a storage pouch. Happy Edging! (I am in no way affiliate with AutoAccessories Garage nor Intro-Tech)

You need to know the money factor that will be applied. The website calculator sucks since it assumes a certain amount of cap reduction and does not show you the math.

I beg to differ. Slotted rotors allow pads to off-gas their adhesives and also keep the pad surface even for a longer period by sweeping the contact area. Not much weight lost (what is lost is negligible) and honestly, you don't want to lose too much mass as the iron acts as a heat sink drawing heat from the pads and fluid, allowing them to radiate their heat and cool. AND.....lots of racing teams / leagues use slotted rotors including NASCAR:

Check out member Jackson5 he's selling his white Sport for $31,000 iirc... pretty good price.

I get issues with the brake being hard if I happened to depress the brake with the engine off. But that usually doesn't stop the car from knowing I have a foot on the brake. Maybe your brake pedal position sensor is not properly calibrated. Check to see how far you have to push it before 1) the brake light illuminate and 2) when the shift lock relay clicks open.

I might be very interested. Let me do my homework to see if it's even remotely compatible with my 2011 and I'll get back with you!

Choff: Your issue is wind "buffeting" due to quick pressure changes back and forth due to flow variation. Not many vehicles deal with this very well. OP: Most vents for cars are located in the trunk area. If they are closed, or blocked, pressure can build. I crack the BAMR if I get uncomfortable (not often). Look at the vents in the trunk compartment and see if you can make them flow better. Usually, they have a flap to block things from entering the cabin (spiders come to mind).