jeffreybehr

Well, it does take time to evaluate the results of these modifications, and with a few more days, I decided my Edge still droned a bit too much, so I had Mighty replace that cute little Magnaflow... ...with a larger one. The level of the drone is down about another 10dB which means it isn't audible at all. NOW I'm finished! This reinforces my earlier statement that if I had to do it all over again, I'd start with just the front muffler and NO rear mufflers... ...and I might experiment with that in a few months. :yup:

...4460 pounds full of gas. 2585 on the front = 58%, 1875 on rear = 42%. No BAMR, Nav, subwoofer, or rear DVD system.

Uhh...how many times are you going to ask this question?

Saleens7: "Go with 295 or 305/35 -22 tires. Anything else looks to (sic) small." THAT's certainly a matter of opinion; I think 22"ers of low-enough aspect ratio so as NOT to be larger than 29.5" diameter look silly on an Edge...but that's my opinion, not a fact or factoid. I think my 20s look great--well-proportioned, etc.: I think scoopo's tire-size choice is the right one.

"You seem to be in the know on all things Brakes." Ahem...thx; I just pay attention and have improved brake systems on a couple vehicles. I suspect that: 1. You wouldn't notice any difference in pad or rotor life between the FWD and the AWD rotors, and 2. It'll cost a proverbial arm-and-leg to buy and have those parts installed at a Ford dealership. Probably the AWD rotors are maybe a quarter-inch larger than the FWD versions. I suspect that LOTS-larger rotors, such as maybe 14"ers, would indeed make a difference in performance and pad and rotor life. My Porsche Cayenne Turbo has what was once the largest brakes on any production SUV, 13.8" fronts and 13" rears... Those are 20" wheels and the rotors still look fairly large. The best brake pads I've ever used on a vehicle are Porterfield's R-4 carbon/kevlar stuff... http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html I started using the R-4 pads in the early '90s on the front of an '87 Mustang that was equipped with a Corvette-based 12" front-brake system from Baer Brakes. The R-4 worked so well I bought it for the rears, too*. The R-4 pads have high friction cold AND hot, are very low in dust, don't squeel, and last a long time. I've since used R-4s on a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the Cayenne. They're the overall-best that money can buy, IMO, and worth every penny of their premium price. You might contact them. BTW I have NO interest in Porterfield other than as a customer. Hal Baer of Baer Brakes is a friend, and I'm hoping he'll come up with an affordable 14"-rotor system for the Edge. However his development efforts are very backlogged, so if it happens, it may not be for a year or 2. * I installed a Ford Motorcraft 11"-rotor system on the rear.

Based on specs here... http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/01/13/207380.html ...I conclude that the AWD models have larger front rotors than the FWD models. My AWD's are c. 12.5" diameter; I wonder how large the FWD's are.

...and we still don't know what an "all Clear for the SZone" is. To quote my predecessor, Wazzat?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?sho...entry6835

Mighty Muf'ler added a small Magnaflow muffler this morning. This eliminated about 90% of the droning while retaining the very nice exhaust sound. I'm happy.

It's very...black.

I'm here in n.-central Phoenix. Finished the exhaust system this morn; it no longer drones.

Hardhawk: "May I ask why you decided not to paint the lower doors and rocker panels? Just curious." It was just a hunch...maybe that the black-center wheels would look better sort of not between all-copper body color. The more I look at the broadside pic, the more I think either treatment does/will look great. Frankly, I'm surprised Ford isn't doing this to the '08 Limited.

Mine are done, and I LOVE the way it looks. I decided not to have the door bottoms and rockerpanels painted, and I think that was the right decision. Tomorrow, another muffler to eliminate the droning, and next week, maybe new grilles and rear-door woofers.

Hmm...I'm coming from a Porsche Cayenne Turbo with that fabulous manually shiftable 6-speed auto, so I know what you're missing. I too am disappointed that Ford left out all those positions, but it's not all bad. First, one can lock out overdrive, in this case speeds 5 and 6, with a button on the side of the shifter. This provides significant engine braking. Secondly, Low means the bottom 2 gears, and I downshift into it as fast as about 40MPH. Hope this helps.

Other than Jillo, has anyone replaced his/her SW and have it sitting around? I'm interested in buying, as my Premium system is definitely deficient in the bass octaves. E-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net.

Ksanesses's ballmount looks JUST like my Reese, even to the ball-base hex impression. I got mine at WalMart...$19 plus ball...but not all carry them. My ball, too, is Reese and it fits nicely in the impression and needs only one wrench--1/1/8"--to tighten on the mount.

"By the way if I want to change 22' rim, do I need to do others things? I means just change the rim and tire is fine?" The wheel and tire diameter have to match, so I don't know what you mean by '...just change the rim and tire is fine'. BTW it's '22" wheel', not 22' rim.

DJ, yes, the about-30-seconds-each installation time is quite an advantage. When I get the hi-beam bulbs installed, probably I'll do some careful before-and-after pics. The H11s I found for $68 delivered; the 9005s were only $35 delivered.

I'm in the process of replacing the low- and high-beam bulbs in my Edge; compared with the very-expensive lighting system in my Porsche Cayenne Turbo, the Edge's are rather dim. I purchased thru eBay and have installed PIAA's lo-beam (#9005) replacement bulbs that they call 'Xtreme White Plus'... http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-9000.html . They're an easy direct replacement and provide significantly brighter, whiter light from the low beams. I've ordered the high beams in the same series... http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H11.html... but they're not here yet. I'll post again when they're installed.

TY, fly. The wheels are ASA brand, type JH8, $234 at The Tire Rack... http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp...autoModClar=FWD ...4th row down. Tires are General Grabber UHPs in 275/45-20 and are the same diameter as the 18"ers supplied by Ford. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp...mp;x=53&y=9 ..., 5th tire down. Here are better pics of the wheel and tire.

"The term premium may be a bit misleading . I believe that the case of premium vs audiophile, the premium system is the cheap one. Not certain, but it may not come with a sub." The Premium version is definitely lower in price than the Audiophile version and it does not include a subwoofer. I was asking about differences between the 2 frontends. "That replacement woofer you used looks as though its designed for in home (sic) use. I'm thinking that surround will disintergrate (sic) very rapidly is (sic) AZ." The surround is rubber or a modern version of it and NOT foam, so it'll last at least as long as I do. :-)

The speaker pictured is the new one, a 6-1/2" driver developed about 10 years ago by Jeffrey Glowacki of Sonic Craft and used for years in the speaker systems they manufactured. The drivers are discontinued and SC is clearing them out at $10 each--but you have to buy a carton of 24! I've used MANY in the 3 front-channel speakers of my multichannel music system. I've purchased about 2 cartons and have extras if you want to play with them; e-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net if you interested at $11 each plus shipping. The door panel is held on by 8 screws, 2 plastic lower locating pins, 2 metal upper locating pins, and NONE of those horrible metal clips so common decades ago--TY Ford! 1. Remove the switch panel that's part of the armrest by pulling it up; it comes off quite easily. Pull the connector and set aside the switch panel. 2. Use a small straight-blade screwdriver to pop off the about-1"-diameter round cover from the latch panel; a Torx-20 screwhead will be staring at you. Remove this screw. 3. Using a 7/32" socket or driver, remove the screw in the bottom of the hand-pull pocket. 4. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 6 screws at the front, rear, and bottom of the panel. 5. The panel should be somewhat loose now. Start pulling the panel off at its bottom. Work your fingers under each corner and pull sharply to pop the panel's corner locating pin out of its metal hole. Now do the other lower corner. 6. Carefully pull the panel off the doorframe while gently lifting it--it's hooked over the window molding at its top. Unplug the connectors to the switches, and BINGO...you have the doorpanel in your hands. The door will look a lot like this. I don't remember which side is which on speaker-wiring polarity (the Ford drivers aren't marked...at least mine weren't), but on one side, the brown-striped wire is positive and on the other, the plain white. Of course you'll confirm that with a battery and a pair of jumpers. NOW you get to decide what to do about those 37-cent speakers!

Are they the same or different? If the latter, in what ways? My SEL+ came with the Premium system. I've already replaced the front-door speakers... ...for a distinct reduction in edginess, and I'll be adding tweeters on the instrument panel, but does the frontend have more power or any other differences? Also, if anyone has a take-out Audiophile-system subwoofer system they'd like to sell, pls e-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net. BTW these door panels are surprisingly easy to remove and reinstall. I'll post details if anyone wants.

I'm retired and WAY too busy to wash it myself. Also, I'd have to get up about 6AM to wash it in the shade, and at that time I'm usually making a short trip across the hall before returning for 2-3 more hours sleep. :yup: