I don't think that having a regular tube size with a standard K&N Cone Filter is going to change things by very much in the amount of extra air that the engine is sucking in, but I may be able to get my Ford guys to check and do a diagnostic just to see where we are on things (especially since I now have the G-Force chip added and running Excellent).
I finally got to talk to the Technical guys at G-Tech and they did tell my how their programmed chip works and how it controls the engine and ECU, while (they say) keeping things totally safe and with-in warranty specs.
Here Goes: The tech said that the chip is always turned on, by running on the voltage level that is coming from the AIT sensor that would be connected to the ECU down line, but we have tapped inbetween this connection (between the ECU and the AIT sensor). The Chip only needs a low amount of voltage to run and stay turned on, as the AIT line supplies the voltage for the chip to stay "ON" even though the AIT line varies up & down in voltage, based on the volume and temperature (and maybe the humidity level I am not sure) of the air running past it.
It normally is going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage, based on that, plus humidity, I think, and then the ECU makes changes to its programmed controls from seeing these higher or lower voltage levels from the AIT sensor.
Now, the chip has been programmed specifically for my 2011 Sport Edge 3.7 Engine, to change these voltage limits to actually go higher or lower than the factory spec levels, but not always, as it is active and does change and vary, based on the voltage levels that are coming into the chip, from the AIT sensor.
The main techician at G-Force Chips, told me that the voltage sent on from their chip to the ECU will differ, based on what the sensor is sending it, and it will be different under varying conditions. He said that if it were hot and humid outside, the chip will send out, say, a higher voltage than normal or stock, once the temperature has reached a certain temperature level, otherwise, it may just stay idle and not send the higher voltage to the ECU, than the stock voltage level. If the air outside was cold and dry, the chip may send a lower than normal voltage level to the ECU. If the temperature and humdity were say, in mid range, the chip may run a medium level, or it may not, based on my engine type and the programming from Ford, for my ECU type, (that Ford put in my Engine design).
They say that they have it actively changing output to the ECU and being raised to the higher end of the Warranty spec range when the engine is under load, or when being pushed to higher RPM's, or harder gas pedal pressure, while it is actually shutting down and lowered to a lower setting than stock Ford settings, when not needing the extra power level setting, when I am just gliding along on a flat highway at a resonable speed, and not needing the extra OOMF.
This gives me better gas mileage when cruzing, but it also seems that with the extra OOMF setting, it doesn't use as much gas, as it seems to run really smooth, really, really smooth, even when giving it a little extra exceleration run. It is now much smoother than stock.
They say that the ECU, having the new levels high and low, from this sensor line, makes the ECU re-program itself and then,......OH MY G--D! The car runs like a G--D Damn Race Car, when you give it a little extra push and run it up to top end (or not)! The shifts are smooth and precise, and the control to the tiny-est amount of giving the gas peddle a little more or a lttle less, is like dialing in 50x precise settings on the gas pedal! Even if I change the amount on the gas pedal, while the car is taking off, the control lets off exactly by the small degrees that I control. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED at how well the car drives now.
Earlier in the week, I had the wrong pin-out location and have now fixed it according to the factory MAF, ECU, wiring diagram for my 2011 Sport 3.7 Engine.
My car is now amazing even with the AWD, glass roof, extra 440 Lbs. or so, ....IT is Really Fast! I think it would beat a lot of cars out there on the street and definately any STOCK FORD EDGE front wheel drive.
It feels like I have added 40-50 HP. with the Intake and this one little $69 added change. JUST AMAZING! I will see if my Ford guys will do a diagnostic on it, just to make sure that it is all safe, but the guys at G-Force, claim that they have programs for most cars out there, just about, and that the limits and outputs, as well, as the effects that they control, have all been programmed to allow the car to a higher limit when it needs more OOMF and then higher limits on running with lower settings when running with less fuel, when it doesn't need the extra OOMF.
Blivitt, I would love it if you would buy one and try it, and then, measure all the things that you know about, with the safety needs for these engines, to see if it all is really working in safe ranges and doing what they say it is doing.
You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver and I know what a good OOMF is when you press down on the gas (handling too). This Edge Sport 2011 has woken up! It is pretty quick, and drives great so far, smoother than it did, with no bucking or dogged out limping off the line from a light, as it did now and then when stock, for what-ever reason.
It took about 100-miles, just as they predicted, for the ECU to re-program to these new allowed levels and WHAM! It turned on, all-of-a-sudden! Just like that, It ran like a whole different car and engine. It was running pretty good before that with the chip now correctly installed, but it noticably woke up and smoothed out even better at around that 100-mile mark or so.
The only thing the Sport Edge needs, to finish it off, will be a good set of brakes and discs, to match the power and performance. I think 13" discs, 8piston-calipers, might finish it off to being a great driving safe car with great brakes. I may add the HDI lights too, we will see.
I will let you know if we get the diagnostics run on the engine to try to see what we have now, but really, spend the $69 and test it. You can remove it and return it later if you wish.
I had all of this great increase in engine performance this week on regular gas, and I now get 24 MPG @ 70 MPH and 28 MPG @ 65 MPH. (I was getting 23 MPG @ 65 MPH stock), all driving on Flat Florida Highways.
I got 18 MPG in traffic (I was getting 16-17 MPG stock) and I was running the gears up a lot this week to top end, to test it, over and over (18 MPG doing all this all week long).
I got 22 MPG around suburban areas, where before I was getting less, like 18-20 MPG stock, if I was really careful on the gas, and trying to get good mileage.
The air intake helped a lot too, (it also seemed to re-program the ECU at around 60-80 miles of use,and then ran really good with getting better mileage and more OOMF).
Adding this chip, though,....WOW! THis car is losing nothing by being a heavier AWD Sport, and I am telling you, it feels like another 40-50 HP.
I may go get it dyno'ed, if everything checks out in the safe zones as needed with diagnostics.