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The Edge, the model sold by the car company "Ford Motor Company". At least since 2011 Ford has used this strategy, the main benefit is to reduce fuel consumption by reducing load from the alternator when charging is not required. This can even be seen by monitoring the voltage output of the alternator. I am using ForScan lite (Android). The PID is "BdyCM.BAT_ST_CHRG", see screenshot attached. As for AGM selection, seeing how I probably was wrong before, I wouldn't follow the F150 sheet. However, since an Edge with auto-start stop does have an AGM from the factory, maybe use the ABD from that? Checking VINs of Edges online, a 2016 Edge SE FWD that has Auto-Start stop has "01" in the battery type. So does a 2023 Edge ST that has Auto-Start stop. (As per the the F150 sheet this correspondences to BAGM-48H6-760 70Ah 760CCA, which is the stock Edge battery with Auto-Start stop).

Thanks @omar302 This morning when I connected my laptop to change the battery config as you suggested above, and it was taking me longer to get Forscan to communicate with the OBDLink MX+ and with that I got the battery low warning, and that's after it was on the tender overnight. Decided its time for a new one, so the quickest was to buy one from Walmart - I got the H6 AGM Platinum for $178.00 - it gets good reviews online. The Interstate H6 bought from Costco lasted 3 years and 1 month, just out of warranty. With the new battery installed I first changed the type as above and then did a BMS reset. Note that the new AGM is 3kg (6.6 lb) heavier than the previous one. I paid the $12 for a years subscription to Forscan - feel it well worth it and the developers most certainly deserve the support. .

Today the windshield installer left my lights ON in Aux Power mode for ages to the point that it cut out - I then put my 2.5 Amps charger on it and a while later when he wanted to connect the Autel device to in Aux Power mode, this time with the lights and AC unit off, it still cut out quicker than it should, but of course it didn't have much time to charge since the first event. I started looking at a replacement and decided I'd go with an AGM H6 this time, but after getting it fully charged my battery tester says that its still 100% healthy so I'll hold off on the replacement for now. This is what I'll go with next time: ACDelco Gold Automotive AGM Batteries 88864541 $167.00

Thanks @Haz As I walked out to my driveway when the installer returned I found the metal clip that he was adamant wasn't installed - he apologized. We spent a long time on the phone with Autel and their response was that they've got to install a new windshield because the mirror/camera mounting must be wrong. I prompted that we repeat the calibration process using the Autel because I suspected that he did not follow the procedure correctly previously - after about 10 to 15 minutes on the road the fault on the dash cleared and the Autel said calibration completed successfully. See photo of the rain sensor clip installed.

Oil Pan - Removal and Installation - 2.0L EcoBoost - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Transmission - Removal and Installation - 2.0L EcoBoost - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Good luck!

From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual, with emphasis added... Spare Tire And Mismatched Tire Sizes Major dissimilar tire sizes between the front and rear axles could cause the AWD system to stop functioning and default to FWD or damage the AWD system. It is recommended to reinstall a repaired or replaced road tire as soon as possible. When a mismatched or tire of the wrong size is fitted, an AWD OFF message may appear in the IPC . If this condition occurs, a DTC is set and an AWD OFF message is displayed on the message center. If there is an AWD malfunction service required message in the message center from using a spare or mismatched tire, this indicator should turn off after reinstalling a tire of the same size as the normal road tire, then cycling the ignition OFF and ON. Good luck!

@TourGuide: The content of 2.7L EcoBoost PTU documents is identical to the above-posted 2.0L EcoBoost versions. I saw 2.0L Forum posts on your Profile and just assumed -- and we all know what that makes me! Good luck!

@TourGuide: Information on your Edge's PTU from the 2019 Edge Workshop Manual. attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Power Transfer Unit (PTU) Draining and Filling - 2.0L EcoBoost - General Procedures - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - 2.0L EcoBoost - Description and Operation - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - 2.0L EcoBoost - Specifications - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) Fluid Level Check - 2.0L EcoBoost - General Procedures - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Howdy all you folks living on the edge. Just became a proud owner of a '22 Edge Titanium. Retired USN SCPO, ETCS(SW). E8 for all you Army folks, the man that wears the star for every body else. 20 years, 69-89 Then hit the briny blue for til I buried the anchor in 2008. Bought a motorcycle, and just crossed the line between old and semi elderly...live in sw fla.

The 2019+ Edge refresh got a different PTU than previous models.

To emphasize the importance of your Health and Safety awareness, the SRS Depowering and SRS Repowering procedures are included here and are also provided below as PDF documents... From the Workshop Manual's Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) and Stability Control section, with emphasis added... Stability Control Sensors The stability control sensors for the vehicle dynamic system consist of the yaw rate sensor, lateral accelerometer, longitudinal accelerometer and roll rate sensor. The sensors are housed in the RCM which sends sensor information to the ABS module over the HS-CAN2 . If any of the sensors are defective, a new RCM must be installed. The yaw rate sensor measures the yaw angle which is the difference between the direction the vehicle is pointing when cornering and the direction the vehicle is actually moving. The longitudinal accelerometer measures the acceleration and deceleration of the vehicle as it moves forward and backward. The lateral accelerometer measures the force created when a vehicle corners that tends to push a vehicle sideways. The roll rate sensor measures the rate of rotation of the vehicle along the centerline of the vehicle from front to back. Lateral acceleration has 2 forms. The first is the centrifugal acceleration that is generated when the vehicle travels around in a circle. The second is the acceleration due to gravity. On level ground there is no lateral acceleration due to gravity. However, if the vehicle is parked sideways on a bank or incline, the sensor measures some lateral acceleration due to gravity, even though the vehicle is not moving. A professional dealership technician may use Ford Diagnostic and Repair System (FDRS) diagnostic scan tool connected to Ford's servers to likely run a VIN-specific Guided Routine (RCM) of PINPOINT TEST AG: STABILITY CONTROL SENSOR EVENT INFORMATION FAULTS (C006X:68) to determine if replacement of the RCM is indicated by the step-by-step Pinpoint Test results. Work safely. Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Depowering - General Procedures - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) - Wiring Diagram 1 - 2018 Edge.pdf RESTRAINTS CONTROL MODULE (RCM) - Connector C310 Pinout - 2018 Edge.pdf RESTRAINTS CONTROL MODULE (RCM) - Connector C310 Location - 2018 Edge.pdf BATTERY ENERGY CONTROL MODULE B (BECMB) - Connector C2518 Pinout - 2018 Edge.pdf BATTERY ENERGY CONTROL MODULE B (BECMB) - Connector C2518 Location - 2018 Edge.pdf Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) - Wiring Diagram 2 - 2018 Edge.pdf OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM MODULE (OCSM) - Connector C3043 Pinout - 2018 Edge.pdf OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM MODULE (OCSM) - Connector C3043 Location - 2018 Edge.pdf OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM MODULE (OCSM) - Removal and Installation - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Repowering - General Procedures - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Gateway Module - Power Distribution Wiring Diagram - 2018 Edge.pdf

GENERAL SERVICE BULLETIN Rear-View Mirror Concern Analysis 24-7133 16 December 2024 This bulletin supersedes 23-7173. Reason for update: add the interior review view mirror update Summary This article is designed to provide examples of interior and exterior rear-view mirror conditions/damage to assist in determining if the condition is warrantable or non-warrantable. Refer to the latest version of the Warranty and Policy Manual online for the latest rear-view mirror warranty coverage information. Use this article to assist in determining warrantable interior and exterior rear-view mirror concerns. Service Information Vehicles with power folding rear-view mirrors may exhibit concerns such as inoperative, folding with clicking sounds, vibrating/shaking in wind/while driving, or does not lock firmly in drive position. This may occur when the exterior rear-view mirrors are manually folded in such as going through a car wash, being bumped in transportation or a parking lot, or only one mirror is folded in. This may be attributed to the power folding mirror being out of synchronization or damage to the mirror mount. Perform the mirror synchronization procedure prior to completing any additional diagnostics. The synchronization procedure may need to be performed more than once to receive the loud popping sound, which is an indication the synchronization procedure has completed. Refer to WSM Section 501-09 Rear View Mirrors – General Procedures – Power Mirrors Synchronization. If the synchronization procedure does not correct the concern, continue with cleaning and inspection before performing additional diagnostics. Diagnostic test results and resynchronization information must be documented if a warrantable defect is found. Concerns that are corrected by the power mirror synchronization should not be submitted under warranty. Loose manual folding exterior rear-view mirrors are most commonly the result of damage to the assembly/mount. Closely inspect the exterior rear-view mirror after cleaning to review for witness marks/impact damage. Loose interior rear-view mirror mounts are most commonly the result of not being seated or the mount/attachment being damaged. Reseating the mirror per the WSM, Section 501-09 Rear View Mirrors may correct this concern. If the windshield has been replaced, damage to the mount can occur from improper removal/installation. Pen test A pen test should be used to determine mirror glass impact damage. Slowly run the tip of a ball point pen inside the crack throughout its entire length. If an impact is present, the pen helps to feel an impression. Cleaning procedure Clean the entire mirror assembly and glass to assist in verification of the customer concern and/or impact damage using water, a cloth, and car wash soap as needed. Do not clean any mirror glass or housing with an ice scraper, razor blade, abrasive pad, harsh chemicals or petroleum based cleaning products, as these may damage the mirror glass and/or housing. Use steel wool no greater than 0000 grade on the on the mirror glass only, in a circular motion then rinse/wipe with water or a non-abrasive glass cleaner. Examples Of Non-warrantable And Warrantable Conditions A rear-view mirror assembly can be damaged from abuse or impact and show little or no witness marks on housing. Shiny or flat spots on the housing indicate abuse or impact. Typical non-warrantable damage from abuse or impact Exterior mirror: • Mirror glass missing • Glass with scratches or cracks • Glass loose due to broken pivot or missing jackscrews • Scrapes on housing resulting from impact or abuse • Attachments loose due to impact • Broken mirror motor plate • Glass reattached (glued) after impact • Broken pivot neck/housing Interior mirror: • Interior mirror glass cracked • Broken windshield at mirror mount • Interior mirror detached pivot Typical warrantable conditions • Glass discoloration • Distorted mirror glass reflection • Electrical failure of motors and switches • Wiring harness shorted • Single line glass crack on heated mirror (verified with pen test) • Single line glass stress crack (verified with pen test) NOTE: All mirror components should be serviced at the lowest level available per the Warranty and Policy Manual. Over-repairs when lower-level components are available are subject to review and warranty adjustment. Dirty Mirror Housing (Non-warrantable) (Figure 1) Dirty mirror housings cannot be properly inspected for outside source influence. Mirrors returned without proper cleaning are subject to warranty review and adjustment. Figure 1 Scrapes, Impact, Broken Housing, Loose Attachment (Non-warrantable) (Figure 2) Figure 2 Power Folding Mirror Detent Pin Damage (Non-warrantable) (Figures 3-5) Power-fold trailer tow mirrors are designed to operate the mirror between home to folded position. They are also designed to manually fold forward beyond home position. If the mirror is forcefully pushed beyond the forward fold position, the detent pin in the mirror is damaged and will not stop at home position using the power-fold button. To test this, push the power-fold button. If the mirror unfolds forward past home position (using the power fold button), it is not warrantable. Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5 Grain Removed From Plastic Mirror Housing (Non-warrantable) (Figure 6) Physical damage that is often accompanied by power-fold mirror detent pin damage. Figure 6 Glass Loose, Broken Motor (Non-warrantable) (Figures 7-8) Figure 7 Missing mirror glass/backing plate missing (non-warrantable) (Figure 😎 Figure 8 Melted Housing (Non-warrantable) (Figures 9-10) Indicates exposure to excessive heat or chemical contact. Figure 9 Figure 10 Discolored Housing (Non-warrantable) (Figure 11) Stains may have a liquid drip or spray pattern (shown) from contact with harsh liquids. Figure 11 Discolored Glass (Warrantable) (Figure 12) Figure 12 Distorted Mirror Glass Reflection (Warrantable) (Figure 13) Figure 13 Single Line Crack On Heated Mirror (Warrantable) (Figure 14) This crack will occur from thermal stress. Refer to the pen test at the beginning of this article to determine impact damage. Figure 14 Distorted Puddle Lamp Projected Image (Warrantable) (Figure 15) Figure 15 Portion Of Missing Glass (Warrantable) (Figure 16) Adhesive is still present on the mirror backing plate which is securely attached to the motor. Figure 16 Interior Mirror Glass Cracked (Non-warrantable) (Figure 17) Excessive force including improper removal/installation. Figure 17 Broken Windshield (Non-warrantable) (Figure 18) Excessive force including improper removal/installation. Figure 18 Interior Mirror Detached Pivot (Non-warrantable) (Figure 19) Excessive force will detach the press fit pivots. Figure 19 Blocked Light Sensor (Non-warrantable) (Figure 20) Obstruction will cause inoperative automatic high beam. Figure 20 Smudge Interior Mirror (Figure 21) Use steel wool no greater than 0000 grade on the on the mirror glass only, in a circular motion then rinse/wipe with water or a non-abrasive glass cleaner. Figure 21 © 2024 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: This information is not intended to replace or supersede any warranty, parts and service policy, workshop manual (WSM) procedures or technical training or wiring diagram information.

I'll put my car in here too, maybe it will make people less shy to put their car in there when they see mine. lol

@1004ron I had done the same for my Edge since installing a locally made H6 battery. However, in ForScan there is a PID to monitor battery state of charge, and after a few weeks it would not read correctly, be less than 80% most of the time, ~55-65%. I had attributed this to bad battery quality. Recently I installed a new battery, same brand/size H6, and again after a few days same issue with the battery state of charge, less than 80%. I then checked with ForScan module configuration, the "Easy Mode" and found that the battery type was listed as "Incorrect value or not configured". Found out that for some reason, the ABD values "0C" & "0D" show this result. So I tried the battery type just after the default one (Varta 70Ah 600CCA H6 Case), which is "13" in the ABD value, and not included in the battery type list in the F-150 ABD sheet). Couple of days later the battery state of charge got around 80% as it should be.

I just got around to checking on this again last week. I disabled the predictive destination.....and no more double chimes when starting! Thanks!! Still not sure why you have to disable this for it to work right.

Heads up display is a electronic module that projects an image onto the inside of your windshield. It allows to driver to maintain his eyes on the road while subsequently viewing the image. The image itself can contain different information. For example when Cadillac first fitted their cars with a HUD, it projected a visual image of the road ahead in infrared (allowed the driver to see the road ahead in heavy fog.) It can contain gauge readings, radio settings, whatever it programmed to project. While useful, it can also be a nuisance. There are realitively inexpensive aftermarket HUDs available if your interested. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Multi-color-Windshield-Projector-Overspeed-Interface/dp/B07D4H1C86/ref=asc_df_B07D4H1C86?mcid=dcf07340bbea38fe9eb4a9f3c451d972&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693452132332&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11144991337209104397&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016241&hvtargid=pla-1018383080608&psc=1

Last week my windshield was damaged by a rock on the same road I71 and I used the Erie insurance app on my phone to initiate a replacement. The Erie app steers you to SafeLite for the replacement but I went with Rite-Way after my past experience with SafeLite. The installer arrived at my home this morning and I noticed it was non-OEM glass made in China, so I put it on hold. It sounds like the insurance limits the cost to around $800 and requires special approval if it exceeds that amount - I'm waiting to hear back from them on that, but looks like I might need to pay in to go with OEM glass.

I just drained and filled my transmission. I had a valve body replacement (and fluid replacement) just before 60,000 miles under warranty (due to the surging) and I have 82,750 currently. I got 4.5 quarts out and put that much back in. It was very dark fluid and smelled like gear oil. I think I'll be changing it every 20,000 miles from here on. Just wanted to add something as I was getting confused by the funnel talk. The cap that needs to be removed is just a breather hose/vent. There's actually a cable type clamp that would work great to remove the clamp (linked below). After finally seeing it, I'm going to get a length of fuel line and extend it up near the top of the engine so I won't have to remove the air box and zip tube next time for a transmission drain and fill. Should have measured it but maybe 3/4" hose by 2 feet and zip tie that off somewhere and put that little breather cap on top of that. Not sure why it rotates my pictures. Edit: my fluid level plug on the side was super tight. It takes a 10mm hex bit socket. I was using 3/8" drive and was flexing the ratchet. Stepped up to 1/2" drive and got it loose. I was able to check with the tire on and turned all the way to the right and laying on my back. Need about 10-12" of extension with the socket. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-Cable-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-82115/303732784

I forgot to wait for the 18 inch spare to arrive, but if I have a flat on the front the next 2 days, I will put the spare on the back (which I would likely do with a FWD vehicle anyways). Work is done, 5 hours, because I have no power tools, no lift, and ADHD so I scrubbed and details the back of the rims, the suspension, the brakes, the chassis, etc. It was the little things that kicked my butt. Replacing the rear caliper boots and slides, with the lower having the hard plastic, was a PITA. I didn't pay enough attention to the FWD being rear vented, and AWD being front vented. I didn't change the brake backing pad. The magic that makes it happen, left is the FWD caliper bracket, right is the AWD bracket: The different rotors: There was way more rust than I am used to, with a CA and AZ car. but still pretty easy to work on. The money shot: No chance the 17 inch spare will fit The real reason I dug into the brakes. Rear had 2-3mm left. It was starting to shake on normal braking, not just emergency or heavy braking coming down a mountain pass. Fronts has a ton of life left, but I couldn't see just doing the rear, and I wanted the larger brakes So far just drove it enough to sorta bed in the brakes. These are already burnt in (they smelled like I rode them down a mountain pass, still in the box), I didn't do any emergency braking, I did test out adaptive cruise but not the stop part of it. Just staring to wear through the coating A tool I used on a 2000 Ford Expedition, where the rotor hat is the same exact size as the hub, and the rust weld themselves together. Why beat the crap out of something when you can use leverage. This temporary tool had been used on quite a few rusted on rotors and works like a champ. As a temporary one use tool I didn't do enough to it, I need to get rid of the first 3 or 4 rows of threads because the end gets boogered up, but easy enough to clean up.

Ford has issued Supplement #1 to the Dealer Bulletin for Customer Satisfaction Program 24B47, reinforcing utilization of Technical Support (TSR) process and the Dealer Software Support (DSSH) Hotline when difficulties occur while performing the APIM software update, and/or if an APIM replacement is required to fulfill this Program, and providing additional Labor authorization for these TSR and DSSH interactions...

So this will finally happen! I am still waiting for the front caliper brackets to match the larger rotors, but Saturday is the day I hope! These front rotors are beefy. It is a daily driver for my wife, and it also gets about 20,000 miles a year, so I didn't go with drilled and slotted, or aggressive pads. I do drive it from time to time so I will appreciate the larger front brakes I hope. I don't really need the coated rotors either, I live in the desert and rust is not really an issue, but for the cost difference, I went with them. I do have pretty good luck with Power Stop brake parts, so I hope that continues. $453 after shipping, $388 after $65 rebate. It is actually cheaper than the above screen shot since they have the same components in a kit, and I added slide pins and boots, and still cheaper. Shipping was $53 because it came from 2 different places, that 5% off discount of $20 didn't cover the shipping like it usually does. Still $100 cheaper than I can get it locally, with the $35 in shipping for the rotors (the shipping for the brackets is $15). The 2 sizes of Hex key/sockets that no set ever has? 7mm and 11mm, so got those: The FedEx guy hates me, 160 pounds of boxes! Why 160 pounds? Well, doing the brakes on my daughters 2015 Fusion as well, at 105,000 miles the rear pads are at 2mm, fronts have enough, but she does a lot of mountain pass driving and cooks them. A little meat on the pads will help with that a bit. I also had to do the normal RockAuto shuffle of adding and removing stuff to get the shipping costs down. It was actually cheaper to order the transmission fluid and air and cabin filters, it knocked $45 off the cost of shipping (adding $38 in parts that will be used, not just tossed in randomly). So her brakes all around will be $200 after rebate. She got quoted $550 for the rear only.

Gentlemen, I had the 2019 & now have the 2024 Titanium. The 2019 had a back up camera washer nozzle that squirted water when I pushed the wiper stalk away from me. That cleared the camera lens, it worked perfectly. My 2024 did not have it so I had it installed, same part numbers from the 2019. That solved that problem. I should add that there is a front facing camera also below the emblem. It can accommodate a washer nozzle although mine does not have it. IMHO I don't need it as I rarely use the front camera view as the sensor does the job. The back up camera on the 2024 works well during the day but has very bad resolution at night time, it can be dangerous. I wrote NTSB many months ago but did not hear back from them. The dealership said that is how they are when compared to the same model year. But is way inferior to that on the 2019. There should be a fix for this. This is an inferior product.

Thanks,man! The egr is definitely part of the puzzle for mine. Or maybe a separate puzzle. Anyways, I do love the vehicle, I have no desire to dump it. I've kept up the maintenance of everything on it, and I'm not worried for the reliability of it. So far the driveability issue has only resurfaced on a day when the ambient temp took a big swing from freezing to warm with lots of moisture/humidity. Even then, as soon as engine heat dried things up under hood, the condition went away. So, I have to believe that it is some aspect of the engine management. Map sensor, TPS, CTS, IAT etc. Something is getting and giving bad info without setting a DTC. If it was a transmission hardware issue, it wouldn't appear and disappear as it does now. I will figure it out. I like the thing enough that if at some point it needs a transmission or TC or both, I will buy new ones and install myself.

That seems like it would be the Lane Centering and not seeing one or more markings on the road. The "orange round symbol" is the steering wheel icon that shows that Lane Centering is enabled. It turning Orange means it can't sense a line. You can turn it off like I mentioned to see if that stops the ding, but it will not longer steer for you when it can.

Yes, the 17 inch spare only fits over the FWD sized front rotor. If you have AWD or an ST (which other than early Sports, only AWD, but have different brake setups) you need the 18 inch spare wheel and tire. The 18 inch spare tire is taller since it is the same width and aspect ratio as the 17 incher, on a larger diameter wheel. Side by side comparison:

Hey Biker, Sorry to hear about your 2019 tranny issue(s). As you have probably noticed, you are not alone! It sucks....alot. And the frustrating part is that Ford will not accept any responsibility for this issue. I do not believe that the EGR will be the final fix for your car. I see where several others claimed that theirs were 'fixed' by replacing the EGR valve, but that the problem almost always returned. The eight speed tranny sucks and is expensive to fix. If you have any kind of warranty left, get it replaced. If not and if you can, dump that sucker!! If it is any consolation, My CHEVY faithful brother has a brand new 10 speed 2500 heavy duty super this and super that truck. He had to take it in for a 'reprogramming' of the computer for a recognized shifting problem. When he got it back, it was worse than before.

Take your pick which to wear out first. Brake pads or transmission. I'll take the pads.

You are correct, as usual. The battery age reported is correct at 15 days, and the state of charge is 84% 14 of the 15 days was spent in the airport surface parking lot. I haven't looked at changing the code to suit the AGM, and might just leave it where its at.

My key fob seems to work great. I used it a few times just to try it out but realized I really had no use for it. Years of training (and instinct) have taught me to always have a free hand even when my hands are full!😁

Here is another forum post on the topic if anyone hasn't seen it yet:

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832802531287.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

@STBEAST: PTU Description and Operation section for 2.7L EcoBoost, from the 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual, attached below as PDF document... Good luck! Power Transfer Unit - Description and Operation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

SSM 52882 Unable To Update APIM, TCU Or GWM With FDRS And USB Drive - TSB 22-2404 Module Recovery App No Longer Available on FDRS - *** Issued on September 12, 2024 *** Some 2021 Bronco, Edge, F-150, Nautilus, and Mustang Mach-E vehicles, technicians may experience an inability to update the accessory protocol interface module (APIM), telematics control unit (TCU), and/or gateway module (GWM) using the Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) and Universal Serial Bus (USB) drive. If this occurs, the PTS – Over The Air (OTA) Dashboard may also display multiple APIM and/or TCU updates have failed, and/or a no OTA history message. In addition, the customer may have reported experiencing an OTA software update failure message via the vehicle display and/or FordPass/LincolnWay. Technicians are advised to refer to the appropriate Workshop Manual section for diagnosis and repair of the condition. TSB 22-2404 has been decommissioned and the FDRS Module Update Repair Application is no longer available. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Document download link ... TSB 22-2404 - Unable To Update The APIM, TCU Or GWM With The FDRS And USB Drive - Module Recovery.pdf Please Note: In the below post, information not relating to Edge/Nautilus has been removed, but all are included in the above-linked TSB 22-2402 document. TSB 22-2404 emphasizes: Only 10% of vehicles may require this procedure. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Unable To Update The APIM, TCU Or GWM With The FDRS And USB Drive - Module Recovery 22-2404 31 October 2022 This bulletin supersedes 22-2150. Model: Ford 2021 Bronco 2021 Edge 2021 F-150 2021 Mustang Mach-E Lincoln 2021 Nautilus Summary This article supersedes TSB 22-2150 to update the Service Procedure. Issue: For some 2021 Mustang Mach-E, F-150, Edge, Nautilus and Bronco vehicles technicians may experience the inability to update the accessory protocol interface module (APIM), telematics control unit (TCU) or gateway module (GWM) using the Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) and Universal Serial Bus (USB) drive. The PTS – OTA Dashboard on vehicles with this condition may also display multiple APIM and/or TCU updates have failed, and/or a no OTA history message. In addition, on vehicles with this condition, the customer may have reported experiencing a Ford Power-Up software update failure message via the vehicle display and/or FordPass/LincolnWay. This may be due to an internal software error. To correct this condition, follow the Service Procedure to update and/or recover the APIM/TCU. NOTE: Only 10% of vehicles may require this procedure. Action: Follow the Service Procedure to correct the condition on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria: • 2021 Mustang Mach-E/F-150/Edge/Nautilus/Bronco • Inability to update the APIM, TCU or GWM using the FDRS and USB drive Special Tool(s) USB-to-Ethernet adapter: Trendnet TU2-ET100 USB2.0, Trendnet TU3-ETG USB 3.0, Startech USB31000S USB 3.0, UGREEN USB USB 3.0 model no 40321, Amazon Basics USB 3.0 U3-GE-1P. These adapters have been validated through Ford service testing. Mini B 5 Pin Female Adapter: Rotunda Part# CCMUSB-AF-BF5 or equivalent (Vehicles with USB Media Hub) USB 2 Cable - Male to Male: Rotunda Part# CCMUSB2-AM-AM-10 or equivalent (All vehicles) Ethernet cable assembly, obtain locally (All vehicles) NOTE: Ford has received feedback from technicians that the following USB-to-Ethernet adapters do not work and should not be used: TP-Link USB3 - 10/100/1000, Cable Creations 10/100/1000 USB3, UGREEN USB2 - 10/100, Cable Leader USB 2.0, UGREEN ‎FBA_20256. In the near future, a list of good/bad USB-to-Ethernet adapters will be published on PTS > Service Tips. Warranty Status: Eligible under provisions of New Vehicle Limited Warranty (NVLW)/Service Part Warranty (SPW)/Special Service Part (SSP)/Extended Service Plan (ESP) coverage. Limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. NVLW/SPW/SSP/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time Download And Run The Module Repair Application Following The Service Procedure, Includes Time To Access Connector MT222404 Actual Time Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 14G670 Condition Code: 04 Service Procedure CAUTION: Due to Ford cyber security requirements, the module repair procedure outlined in this article is limited to a maximum of 15 attempts with a total of 20 days from the first time the application is run before the application is permanently disabled for each unique VIN. Make sure that all required and compatible tooling listed in this article is available prior to performing this procedure to reduce the chances of encountering this lockout state. If a lockout occurs, module replacement may be necessary. Note that even if the application is run successfully, the 20 day timer (allowing 15 attempts) continue to run in the background. If the module repair application has successfully completed in the past, it is not required to be run again. NOTE: Administrative access on the laptop computer being used is required to perform this procedure. Make sure any antivirus software loaded in the laptop computer is disabled or uninstalled prior to performing this procedure. NOTE: Use only a wireless connection for internet access as this application requires the use of the laptop computer ethernet port during the module recovery procedure. Verify the FDRS is at the latest software level. 1. Connect either the vehicle communications module (VCM) II or VCM III to the data link connector (DLC) and start a vehicle session using the FDRS. Navigate to the toolbox tab on FDRS then select the Multi Module tab. Under the Multi Module tab, download and run the Module Update Repair application. 2. Does the FDRS application provide the following message: This vehicle does not qualify for Module Update Repair. The TSB does not apply to this vehicle concern? (1). Yes - this article does not apply. Continue with following other service publications for APIM, TCU or GWM programming and/or the Workshop Manual (WSM) for normal diagnostics. (2). No - proceed to Step 3. 3. Connect a battery charger to the vehicle's 12v battery. Set the charger to maintain the battery at 12.6-13.6 volts. 5. For Mustang Mach-E, Nautilus, and F-150 vehicles equipped with a SYNC Media hub, access the APIM in-line USB connector. (4). For Nautilus vehicles, remove the floor console lower right hand trim panel and disconnect the APIM in-line USB connector. Refer to Step 1 in Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-12 floor console removal. (Figures 9-10) Figure 9 Figure 10 (5). For Edge vehicles, remove the SYNC media hub and disconnect the mini-USB connector on the back of the media hub. Refer to Step 1 in Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 415-00 Media Hub removal. (Figure 11) Figure 11 (6). For Bronco vehicles, remove the SYNC media hub and disconnect the mini-USB connector on the back of the media hub. Refer to Steps 1 through 5 in WSM, Section 415-00 Universal Serial Bus (USB) Hub removal. Step 5 allows access to the mini-USB connector. NOTE: Verify you have the appropriate Special Tools listed in this document. Failure to use the approved Special Tools may result in application failure. The application may only be run a maximum of 15 times within a 20 day timeframe for each VIN. Refer to the error condition table at the end of this article for further reference. 6. The FDRS prompts the installation of either USB or ethernet cable connections based on the failure detected. Allow the FDRS to establish an ethernet connection before continuing with the process. Moving too quickly prevents the FDRS from identifying the network and affects the recovery process. Once the ethernet connection is identified, select continue. Required USB connections: • Mustang Mach-E, Edge, Nautilus, Bronco and F-150 vehicles equipped with a SYNC Media hub: - Connect the Mini B 5-pin female adapter to the vehicle harness. - Connect the USB 2 Cable - male-to-male to the female adapter and the laptop USB port. Figure 12 Item Description 1 FDRS 2 USB 2 Cable (male-to-male) 3 Mini B 5-pin female adapter 4 Vehicle harness Figure 14 - Edge Figure 15 - Nautilus Required ethernet connections: • Mustang Mach-E, Edge, Nautilus, Bronco and F-150 vehicles equipped with a SYNC media hub: - Connect the Mini B 5-pin female adapter to the vehicle harness. - Connect the USB-to-ethernet adapter to the female adapter. - Connect the ethernet cable to the USB-to-ethernet adapter and laptop ethernet port. Figure 22 - Edge Figure 23 - Nautilus NOTE: Make sure to use the appropriate Special Tools listed in this document. Failure to use the approved Special Tools may result in application failure. The application may only be run a maximum of 15 times within a 20 day timeframe for each VIN. Refer to the error condition table at the end of this article for further reference. NOTE: Make sure any antivirus software loaded in the laptop computer is disabled or uninstalled prior to performing this procedure. 7. Continue following the FDRS on-screen prompts until the procedure is complete. The FDRS displays when to disconnect the cables. Restore the vehicle harness connections. 8. Once this procedure is complete, FDRS returns to the toolbox tab. Check the Professional Technician System (PTS) website for applicable SYNC 4 and Reverse Brake Assist System TSB, SSMs, GSB publications to update the APIM, TCU and/or GWM to the latest software level. Error Condition Table Error Message in FDRS Cause Actions Unable to communicate with vehicle through ethernet adapter. Verify that the ethernet adapter being used is compatible per the TSB. • Incompatible or faulted USB-to-Ethernet adapter • Verify the USB-to-Ethernet adapter that is being used is on the Ford recommended list. Re-attempt programming with a different adapter This vehicle does not qualify for Module Update Repair. The TSB does not apply to this vehicle concern. • The APIM and/or TCU modules are not corrupted. The TSB procedure does not apply. • The module repair procedure and TSB does not apply. Refer to Step 2, Substep 1 (Yes response) of this article. Exception trying to obtain diagnostic files from the backend server required to repair this vehicle. This could indicate that this VIN has been locked out. • Due to Ford Cyber Security requirements, the maximum number of attempts has been reached to run this application. Up to 15 attempts or within 20 days, which ever comes first. • Make sure that the module repair application has not previously been completed successfully by reviewing warranty history on PTS or FDRS vehicle history. • Replace the affected module (APIM or TCU) Module Repair has failed due to limited or no connection with the vehicle through the USB cable 1. Incorrect tooling or improper connections to the vehicle. 1. Mini B 5 Pin Female Adapter (Rotunda Part # CCMUSB-AF-BF5 or equivalent) (vehicles with media hub). 2. USB 2 cable – male to male (Rotunda part # CCMUSB2-AM-AM-10 or equivalent). 2. This may also be caused by a fault with the USB port on the computer being utilized or the fastboot driver not being installed. 1. Verify that the proper cable and adapters are being utilized per the TSB 2. Retry the programming using a different USB port on the PC 3. Retry the programming with a different PC 4. Download the fastboot driver following the prompt in the FDRS error message © 2022 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

I installed puddle lights, but my car didn't come with any so I had to take apart the mirrors. The wiring was already there.

I did this a couple of weeks ago and its a major improvement - now they are actually capable of being considered puddle lights.

Here is the full list of codes. All came from the Restraint Control Module as reported by a MaxiDiag MD808 Pro. B00A0:09-28 Occupant Classification System B00A0:64-28 Occupant Classification System B00A0:68-28 Occupant Classification System B005:01-28 Restraint System Passenger Disable Lamp B1202:01-28 Restraint System Passenger Enable Lamp C0061:68-81 Lateral Acceleration Sensor C0062:68-80 Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor U3000:49-28 Control Module U3000:4A-28 Control Module U2300:64-28 Control Module U0413:00-28 Invalid data received from Battery Energy Control Module - B U0455:81-28 Invalid data received from Restraints Occupant Classification System

I don't know why the Autel listed the HUD seeing as my Sport doesn't have that. My wife's BMW X5 has the HUD and I like it a lot, and might look at one that that @enigma-2 posted. The only issue I have with the HUD in my wife's car is that its very difficult to see when wearing polarized sunglasses. Also her windshield replacement costs a lot more for the HUD version, but that's what we have insurance for. .

Welcome to the Forum @SummerBreeze! The 2024/2025 Nautilus wiring resources for the North American, Asia Pacific, and European market regions all depict a Power Running Board (PRB) module and circuits supporting power deployed/retracted running boards -- however -- there is absolutely no depiction of any related components or procedures associated with power running boards in the various regional Workshop Manuals, beyond this Module communication description... Additionally, there is also no mention of power running boards among official accessories listed for 2024/2025 Nautilus. Power Running Board-related wiring diagrams, along with connector details and locations, are attached below as PDF documents. The Battery Junction Box's (BJB) F21/F33/F58 fuse positions are associated with relayed circuits for the China-market Nautilus' Electric Booster Heater... Ford's online parts-selling site only shows a cover which closes the Climate Control Housing opening into which the Electric Booster Heater (element) is inserted for China-market Nautilus... Related wiring diagram and Workshop Manual procedure are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Power Running Board (PRB) Module & Motors - Wiring Diagram - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Module - Connector C3313B - Pin-Circuit Details - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Module - Connector C3313A - Pin-Circuit Details - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Module - Connectors C3313A & C3313B - Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Motor, LH - Connector C3185 - Pin-Circuit Details - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Motor, LH - Connector C3185 - Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Motor, RH - Connector C3186 - Pin-Circuit Details - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Motor, RH - Connector C3186 - Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Power Running Board (PRB) Module - Power Distribution - Wiring Diagram - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Electric Booster Heater - CHINA - Power Distribution Wiring Diagram - 2025 Nautilus.pdf Electric Booster Heater - CHINA - Removal and Installation - 2025 Nautilus Workshop Manual.pdf

I had my recall 24E09 notice taken care of at the dealership yesterday. There is no change in the vehicles performance. As good as before. Rafeek

Ford's online parts-selling site offers a zoomable-scrollable exploded view illustration that denotes (with a gold-square icon) the Rain Sensor Mount being provided in assembly (PIA) to the Windshield... Link to this FordParts webpage In your photo of the replacement windshield... ...the configuration and depth of the Rain Sensor Mount locator cavity appears consistent with this illustration from the 2017 Edge Workshop Manual... FordParts' photo of the Rain Sensor Module shows two integral spring clips... ...which this Workshop Manual illustration shows snapping over two ears or lugs that are cast into the sides of the Rain Sensor Mount... Good luck!

Today's action: Hammering Ford UK Parts for a Vignale Grille. I am not backing down until I get it. I don't care how far up the flagpole I go (Even if it gets to Farley's desk) Calling Element Wheels in Chandler, AZ regarding the Axe CF2 Wheels (Gloss Black) in 20" (Shown below) Researching the tires I want for my new rims (Yokohama Geolandar and Pirelli Scorpion Verde are both winning out) Researching brakes via dabangsta's post

The OEM glass itself is about $300. (Example). Is labor that much?

I never said I wasn't......lol

I used an extension with a wobble drive ball end. No need to try and fit between the plug and crossmember. You can also pry the RDU itself down a bit on its rubber mounts to get a better shot at it.

Any other indicators of a weak battery? If the chime is no longer coming from the sound system but from the instrument cluster that sometimes can be the first indicator of a battery issue. I would get that, then I would get no auto start/stop, and the radio turning off with battery saver message trying to sit and listen to the radio with the engine off.

Yeah, there's very little clearance for a tool to get the fill plug out. Here's what I had and used when I do mine.

I would not consider using the seat in the way you describe without having the side air bag professionally removed... If your local Ford dealer refuses the job, you might try contacting an automotive upholstery shop. Good luck!

Hello All, finally decided to join after looking for a couple months, looking forward to learning and sharing as I go. I have had my 2015 Edge Sport for almost 2 years and love it as my daily driver. Mine is the controversial color Electric Spice. Does anyone know how many were made or how to get the information from Ford. Seems pretty rare. I have only seen one other one in person. Would be nice if we could get the production numbers for this color since it was only made in 2 years.

You must have hit quote on your first post so it included your first post like I did here. 1004ron deleted it. To add a new message just go to the bottom of the page,

Just installed one from S&B on my 2020 ST….easy install ..definite improvement in performance not huge but noticeable and price was reasonable … Aftermarket air boxes are designed slightly better than oem allowing for better air flow would definitely recommend