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The RDU saga - long post So I tackled the install of my “new” RDU last week – it took about 7-8 hours for the complete job – seemed too long for me – the problem was those T-50 torx bolts that hold the RDU to the front brackets – I got the drivers side loose and out easily, but the passenger side ones would not come loose – to the point that the spines in the bolt stripped out and ruined my bit – wound up just removing the entire bracket and using the air hammer and chisel to get those bolts out of the RDU – that accounts for at least an hour and a half The rest was pretty ordinary – just a lot of removing and installing bolts – one problem I encountered was the axle nut on the RR roughed up it’s threads while removing it – the edge of the nut was hammered in to lock it (I assume) – I could not see a way to release it from the threads so it flattened out the threads a bit – It went back on and torqued to specs but, if I ever have to remove it again I might need a new axle shaft - my Launch code tool coded the replacement RDU to the PCM So got it all back together and took it for a test drive – while the growling/grinding noise is gone, it clicked when turning from a stop – I disconnected the electrical connection on RDU and noise disappeared – so I’m figuring the clutch portion of the replacement RDU is defective..?? – I removed the clutch part of the replacement and it had gear oil in it – there is a seal between the two but it failed – I don’t know what the oil does to the clutch part but I’m pretty sure that’s what caused the clutch to fail To remove that seal with diff in car you have to basically destroy it – the seal on my original diff did not leak, but it to was looking rough from the removal process - I thought it a good idea to replace it and looked up the part number stamped on it – went to Ford and the one they had (same part number) was way to big – when they looked up the part number it showed the seal for the front of the clutch where it connects to drive shaft, not the seal between the diff and the clutch – they could not explain why they both have the same part number and that was that – I wound up rehabbing my original seal and reinstalling it I took the clutch portion off my original RDU and put it on the replacement RDU – removing that from the gear portion is pretty simple – the code for the clutch portion is etched into the unit (pic) – recoded my original clutch back into PCM I disassembled the gear portion of my original bad RDU – the gear set looked to be ok as did the left and right side output bearings – the growling was from the pinion bearings – these are double row ball bearings – the cage they are in is plastic – I’ve never seen that before – I don’t know what caused the bearing to fail (it was always lubricated) – it gouged up the race and balls pretty bad, so that’s where all the metal in my oil was from – I removed the race from the pinion gear with a puller – if you could find these bearings I think these units would be rebuildable – the L/R side bearings are a standard bearing (LM-501314) – the pinion ball bearings had no identity markings on them so I’m not sure if they can be obtained So the car is back on the road and the AWD seems to be operating normally – if that rehabbed seal does not leak I think it’s a good fix - total cost for this was around $500 – that includes new wheel bearings, axle shafts, the junkyard RDU, seals, and fluid – hopefully it lasts the rest of the car’s life – thanks to all for the input and advice – and I took the above advice and did not drill a drain into the RDU – I’ll change as much of the oil as I can every 20K miles or so and hope it holds

I bought this car in July and like a lot about it. There's other things I don't like so much, but have been addressing and improving these things over time. One of the worst design features of this car is the absolute anemic rear lighting. With the rear hatch lights not functional in this 2020 SEL trim model, and the cost to upgrade to Titanium or ST hatch lights, I knew there had to be a better solution. I needed more "rear facing" lights mostly for safety reasons, as opposed to "side lighting", which is mostly what the current tail lights give me. Came across Zeus 3D Printing in Clearwater, Florida owned by Emil Katzarski quite accidentally during an extensive Google search: https://zeus3d.net/?srsltid=AfmBOorO0O2DjTbDAtMV25AiJb1mms3rWaBZ3b_Lf2Hg2sQetAp7yW8u After several phone conversations and e-mails, I pulled the trigger on a pair of his "ST Rear Reflector Replacements": https://zeus3d.net/products/2019-ford-edge-rear-reflector-replacement Ordered them on 10/4/2024 and received them today on 11/7/2024. They're custom made, not sitting on a shelf, and I suppose the recent hurricane didn't help. I ordered "custom color with LED strips" which got me the matt black version. Cost was $60 for the set of two, and there's a discount code for free shipping. Here's a pictorial of how I did the installation, and why I did it the way I did. First side took me about an hour or an hour and a half, as there was a learning curve. Second side took all of maybe 15 minutes. First, tail lights need to be removed. There's a little square shaped plastic plug which is (gently) and easily pried off with a small flat head screwdriver. Under that is a T25 torx head screw that needs to be removed. I put some painter's tape inside that recess prior to removing that screw, so if I dropped it, it wouldn't disappear into the abyss. Then I followed a YouTube video (there are several) to slide the tail light rearward and remove it. There are simply pins in the housing that go into recessed holes in the body. Only thing is I tried masking tape like the guy in the video did, and it immediately ripped. Duct tape worked much better. Once the light has been removed from the body, just unplug the connector coming out of the light from the other connector fixed to the body. Set the light aside. Next I had to remove the OEM reflector. Its got 2 plastic pins and 2 "springy" plastic clips. Each pin is supposed to have a metal push nut on it, but mine only had the one push nut on the top pin. Either it fell off many years ago, or was never installed. Either way, here's a photo of what's supposed to be there: Here's what the push nut looks like: Even though I know it was pushed on, I used a 10mm deep socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension to unscrew it. Used the same method to reinstall it although you might want to try actually pushing it back on to avoid the possibility of breaking one of the new pins. Thankfully I broke nothing today (for a change)! Here's a comparison of the OEM reflector and the new LED light (more later): For the installation of the new lights I added a bit of extra 3M double sided tape just for insurance, and wiped down the recess that it fits into with rubbing alcohol first: Now.....how do you get to said OEM reflector? Well I'll tell you it's MUCH easier removing the rear wheels first. Gives you much easier access to what you'll need to get at. Also, I removed all the bolts holding in the rear wheel well/fender liners. I think there were like 6 or 7 of those (7/32") around the perimeter of the liner, and two 10mm cap nuts (one towards the front of the well, and one straight ahead over the brake rotor. I did not remove the liner......just took all the fasteners off so I could bend the liner out of my way without creasing or breaking it. However that only allows you to access the lower part of the OEM reflector. To access the upper part (in my case to access the push nut), I partially removed the top of the quarter panel where its simply held in with 4 tabs under the tail light assembly, and then the part that goes around the wheel wheel (I think there were 4 metal clips that just popped out there). I did the top first (pretty gently) then slid my fingers towards the front, and the remaining clips around the wheel well popped easily out. I expected cheap plastic that was bound to break, but they're all pretty robust. I wouldn't yank on them, but easy prying with fingertip pressure was more than enough. Here's a few pics: Inner wheel well..... Inner wheel well after fastener removal..... Top quarter panel tabs under tail light.... Quarter panel wheel well tabs...... Views of OEM reflector from inside Used one hand to gently pull the quarter panel away from the body and the other to remove the push nut, and squeeze the 2 plastic retainer ends together. Then the reflector simply pushes out. When installing the replacement, you'll need to feed the 2 wires from the LED strip up towards the OEM tail light plug. DO NOT make the mistakes I did..... DO NOT try to feed the wires through EITHER of these holes: If you do this, there's not enough room for the new light to lay flat in the recess. On one side I drilled a tiny hole UNDER the bottom square one, and fed the wires through there. On the other side (for some reason) there was enough space to feed them in without drilling. Can't see the hole I drilled anyway, so I'm over it. Also, clip the connectors off the ends of the new light. You don't need them, and they're too large to fit through a small hole (if indeed you choose to drill): Here's a few pics of that process with inside and outside views: Also, the LED strip slides into the bottom of the new 3D printed housing. DON'T FORGET to insert the LED strip into that B-E-F-O-R-E pressing the fixture into the body. Double-sided tape is a bear to remove if you forget. At this stage, assuming you've fed the new wires up towards where you need them, you can reinstall the fender liner. Electrical-wise. I used a test light on the harness that remained in the body to check for grounds and hots. There's 6 wires coming out of the light fixture, but only 5 pins in the onboard socket. The delivery came with a bunch of plastic snap splices, but I prefer Posi-Taps. The 20-22g ones worked fine. I bought them on Amazon but you can buy them direct or shop around. You only need four. Two for the grounds and two for the hots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3815XSG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 In the harness plug, there's 3 pins on one side, and 2 on the other (with a blank space next to them). The pin closest to the empty space matched up with one of the black ground wires coming out of the tail light housing harness. The pin next to that matched up with a solid green wire coming out of the tail light housing harness. Here's how and where I tapped into them: Socket that stays in the car with 2 pins on bottom, and 3 on top.... Posi-Taps: (22g)...... Once the wires are tapped, good idea to plug the tail light back in, turn on your parking lights or headlights and make sure everything is working. If so, slide the headlight pins back into the holes, replace the T25 screw (shove something in the hole in case you drop it), push the plastic trim piece back over the hole, and you're all done. Here's how they look unlit (they are available in most any custom color you want): Here's how horrible my car's rear lighting was before: And here's the after: I gotta say, it was worth the wait, worth the money and worth the time I spent today. Oh yeah, no bumper removal was required. No body parts were actually removed at all. Just loosened and pushed out of the way. All in all, maybe 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Basic hand tools and a little patience went a long way. I highly recommend this relatively easy, inexpensive upgrade if you have the same feelings I did. Beats the heck out of trying to find reasonably priced used Titanium or ST lights, or the European fog light thing, then trying to figure out how to get them to work. I tried to summarize this as best I could. Feel free to ask any additional questions if you think I missed something......... P.S. These serve as "running" lights and are on when either the parking lights or headlights are turned on. They are not spliced into, nor function as turn signals or brake lights. If you choose you can figure out which wire feeds the brake lights or turn signals and tap into either of those lines instead, but these replacements are SINGLE feature lights.

Happy Thanksgiving to all. As an update my dealer installed a new torque converter and had to go back to get belts tightened to reduce noise….. so far all is running better than new….. all covered o under the drivetrain warranty’s

Yeah, it sounds like the car thought something was in the path. I had someone start to pull into my lane (would have creamed the passenger side) and I didn't see them. Evasive steering applied brakes and moved me to the left. Saved me from being hit. Perhaps there was something that the sensors picked up. I always make sure my sensors are clean because I value the evasive steering feature.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING AND A BIG THANK YOU to all who have posted in this thread. I was able to convince my Ford Service department that I did indeed have a transmission issue with my 2019 Edge SEL, 2L turbo. I searched this forum and finally found this thread. I have ALL the same conditions with my transmission. I even had the fluid changed ($500) with 79900 miles. At that time, there was no issue but wanted to maintain this vehicle for a long life. After the fluid was changed, during cold weather, I started having hard up and down shifts. I SHOULD HAVE RETURNED TO THE DEALER IMMEDIATELY. But the weather warmed up and the issue(s) disappeared. Now, at 89900 miles, the issue(s) have resurfaced and the weather is colder. I took it to a dealer after reading this forum. The service technician VERIFIED my concerns with the shifting issues. Fortunately, I had bought a non-Ford service contract and the $6000 cost will be paid in full!!!. I did have choices...The service contract that I had was with Route 66. I chose this company because it is thousands less than the Ford, Chrysler, or Zurich plans hawked by the dealer. This one I bought through the credit union. They have been great to work with and I even get money for a rental/loaner car. I did opt for a Ford Certified and rebuilt transmission rather than the "used" transmission that my plan covered. The additional $500 cost, to me, was worth it as I intend to keep this vehicle. The re manufactured transmission will be warranted to 2 years with UNLIMITED mileage. Since my service contract goes to 120K miles and into 2027, I figured it was (is) the best option. Again, THANKS to all who posted on this thread!!

Ford has issued CSB 24B54 Supplement #1 to Dealers, with a revised date for Owner Letter mailing... ...increases the allowable Labor Time to conduct the Service Procedure... ...and revises the Service Procedure to improve the programming success rate. The updated Service Procedure with revised instructions shown in red text, formulated for dealership professional technicians using the Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) to perform the software updates, is attached below as a PDF document... Owners who opt to perform the software updates on their own, will use the Over The Air (OTA) automatic download and installation method. In Canada, the only Supplement #1 difference is Canadian Owner Letters are expected to be mailed by mid-December 2024. CSP 24B54 Supplement #1 - Revised Service Procedure.pdf

Heating/cooling for both front seats is regulated by Driver Side Front Seat Module (DSM) that you have pictured. Power to the DSM is protected by fuses F74 and F77, located beneath the underside cover of the Battery Junction Box. From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual and Wiring Resource, attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Climate Controlled Seats - Power Distribution - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Climate Controlled Seats, Left Hand - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Climate Controlled Seats, Right Hand - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Driver Front Seat Module (DSM) Connectors Loctation Illustration - 2020 Edge.pdf Front Seats - System Operation and Component Description - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Driver Front Seat Module (DSM) - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Top View - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Bottom View - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Fuse-Circuits Listing #1 - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Fuse-Circuits Listing #2 - 2020 Edge.pdf

I use four jack stands on my level garage floor - I've also done it on four ramps which is quicker and easier - I don't remove any wheels, but the ST might be different and require a wheel removal.

From the 2019 Edge Workshop Manual... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield popup whole word descriptions of the acronyms. RDU The RDU contains an actuator motor, ball ramp, position speed sensor and a multi-plate clutch pack. The position/speed sensor mounted on RDU is reading the ring gear speed. The RDU position/speed sensor provides the information of drive shaft speed and its position. The RDU signals are accessible on the CAN bus via the AWD module. The PTU (Power transfer unit) is a gearbox that attaches to the transmission. It directs power from the transmission differential case through a dog clutch to a hypoid ring gear which is splined to the output flange. When the dog clutch is released, no torque is transferred to the rear driveshaft. When the dog clutch is applied, up to 50% of transmission differential case torque may be transferred to the rear driveshaft. The RDU and PTU (Power transfer unit) interface receive direction from the AWD module. The AWD system continuously monitors vehicle conditions and automatically adjusts the torque distribution between the front and rear wheels. During normal operation, most of the torque is delivered to the front wheels. Both the PTU (Power transfer unit) dog clutch and RDU multi-plate clutches are disengaged and the drive shaft does not rotate in the normal operation. When vehicle require AWD operation, the AWD module commands the RDU to engage the multi-plate clutch, which in turn engages the rear differential to rotate the drive shaft. When the drive shaft's speed is within 30 RPM of the front axle, based on RDU speed sensor which is reading ring gear speed, the AWD module commands the PTU (Power transfer unit) dog clutch to engage, transferring torque to all 4 wheels. The system will then apply or release the RDU clutch pack when necessary depending on road conditions. The AWD system may be referred to as a 4WD system in other service information and owner literature or messages located on the message center. The AWD system is an active system, which means it not only responds to wheel slip between the front and rear axles but also has the ability to anticipate wheel slip and transfer torque to the rear wheels before the slip occurs. The AWD system is active all the time and requires no input from the operator. The RDU is an open differential with electronically controlled clutch pack system. The RDU system vary the amount of torque to the rear axle by controlling the actuator motor by following modes: Economy Mode: During normal FWD operation, both clutches are disengaged and the differential allows the drive shaft to freewheel without transmitting torque to either wheel. Connect Mode: When the vehicle controller determines that the AWD system function may be needed, the AWD module commands the RDU actuator motor to start to engage. The RDU clutch will reach the “touch point” when the driveshaft starts to turn. The AWD module then backs off the RDU clutch, and slowly applies the clutch until driveshaft speed is within 30 RPM of the front axle speed. Torque Mode: When the vehicle is in torque mode, the AWD then commands the PTU (Power transfer unit) to engage. The shift fork moves and slides the collar to engage the dog clutch. The PTU (Power transfer unit) reports back the position of the shift fork to the AWD module. When the PTU (Power transfer unit) is fully engage and the driveshaft is moving with the front axle, the RDU is then commanded to engage the clutch as necessary for the AWD operation. In this mode ,the rear differential is driven and provides torque as part of the AWD system. Rear Drive Axle and Differential - Component Location Item Description 1 RDU actuator motor 2 Speed sensor 3 RDU 4 AWD module 5 PTU (Power transfer unit) From the 2018 Edge Workshop Manual... Spare Tire And Mismatched Tire Sizes If the spare tire is installed, the AWD system may disable automatically and enter FWD only mode to protect driveline components. If the AWD systems detects 1 tire is 5% larger or smaller than the other tires, it may also disable the AWD system. This condition may be indicated by AWD OFF message in the message center. If there is a Check AWD message in the message center from using the spare tire, this indicator should turn off after reinstalling the repaired or replaced normal road tire and cycling the ignition OFF and ON. It is recommended to reinstall the repaired or replaced road tire as soon as possible. Major dissimilar tire sizes between the front and rear axles could cause the AWD system to stop functioning and default to FWD or damage the AWD system. If this condition occurs, a DTC is set and a Check AWD message is displayed on the message center. Four-Wheel Drive Systems - Overview NOTE: The AWD system may be referred to as a 4WD system or Active Torque Coupling (ATC) system in other service information, owner literature, or messages located on the message center. The AWD system consists of the following: Power Transfer Unit (PTU) Rear halfshafts Driveshaft AWD relay module Rear Drive Unit (RDU) Active Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid PCM for system control logic The AWD system is an active system, which means it not only responds to wheel slip between the front and rear axles but also has the ability to anticipate wheel slip and transfer torque to the rear wheels before the slip occurs. The AWD system is active all the time and requires no input from the operator. The AWD system continuously monitors vehicle conditions and automatically adjusts the torque distribution between the front and rear wheels. During normal operation, most of the torque is delivered to the front wheels. If wheel slip between the front and rear wheels is detected, the vehicle is under heavy acceleration or if the vehicle is in a handling event, the AWD system increases the duty cycle to the Active Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid. The ATC solenoid engages a pilot clutch in the Rear Drive Unit (RDU) which in turn sets a ball ramp device in motion. The ball ramp device applies the main clutch pack in the RDU and increases torque to the rear wheels as necessary. When the AWD system is functioning properly, there should be no perceived speed difference between the front and rear axles when launching or driving the vehicle on any uniform surface. Traction should be similar to a part time 4WD system operating in 4H (4X4 HIGH), but have no binding in turns. Automatic Torque Coupling Configuration Bar Code Label Location Component Description PCM The PCM is the logic module for the four-wheel drive system. Multiple modules/system inputs are used for the four-wheel drive system to determine the percentage of torque to be transferred to the rear wheels. Transfer Case The transfer case is a gearbox that attaches to the transmission. The transfer case directs power to the rear driveshaft and the Rear Drive Unit (RDU). AWD Relay Module The AWD relay module receives the command from the PCM , and in turn supplies a PWM output to the Automatic Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid for the requested torque to be applied. Automatic Torque Coupling (ATC) Solenoid The Automatic Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid applies clutch pressure as controlled by the AWD relay module to increase or decrease torque to the rear wheels. The Rear Drive Unit (RDU) transfers torque from the drive shaft to the rear differential depending on the specific request from the FWD system module ( PCM ). Good luck!

On November 11th, @Renegadebuck offered the following reply to my questions about the experience, via Forum messaging... It does have ACC, and it was on. Yes, the wheel jerked left while I was holding it. I don’t remember hearing or seeing a warning. I don’t remember the [ABS] brake pump sound working, but I had the radio on and wasn’t expecting anything to happen. I had to mash the accelerator to the floor to keep it from completely stopping, and when it started accelerating everything went back to normal. Completely dry and straight road. I have not checked [for DTCs] with a scanner. Good luck!

It fit perfectly. I yet have to add the screw that goes through the wheel well. Attached is a picture from the installation, note how it fit tight against the tow hitch.

Sounds like something set it off. Since you have a 22 and it is a safety/liability issue, take it in and tell them your story. Could it have been something you didn't see? like an animal or obstacle in the road? Or maybe a bad sensor. Maybe there will be a code stored in the ECU. It may not be perfect but one day it could save your life for sure. I have my pre collision warning set to the highest setting, and it has saved me on more than one occasion. Luckily, I reacted before the Evasive Assist took action.

I haven't had evasive steering assist triggered, but I have had the pre-collision warning and brake pressure reload happen quite a few (50?) times. Usually for good reason, and a few times due to semi trailers next to me on curvy roads, and once or twice with only things like signs or bushes far along side the road. But since it is just a warning and pre pressurizing the brakes (I braked once after it went off and they are primed and ready) and not any active assist, I just understand what is happening when it happens. Adaptive Cruise is so nice. I accidentally disabled lane keeping and lane centering my last 350 mile trip, and didn't really know until I looked at the display and it wasn't the steering wheel and it wasn't the green arrows on dotted lines. It does help with fatigue, I turned it back on for the return trip. I don't expect it to drive for me, and I still steer and position myself in the lane where I want, but for the small lapse in focus and it keeping you where you should be, it is nice. I used to drive with my knees while eating a taco with my head tilted, I think I did a better job than the lane centering.

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Rear Outboard Seat Belt Tongue Rattle Against Rear Interior Door Panel And/Or C-Pillar - Built On Or Before May 13, 2024 24-2258 08 November 2024 Model: Lincoln 2024 Nautilus Built on or before 13-May-2024 Markets: North American market only Issue: Some 2024 Nautilus vehicles built on or before 13-May-2024 may exhibit a rattle noise from the rear outboard seat area. This may be due to the outboard seat belt tongue making contact with either rear interior door panel and/or C-pillar moulding. To correct this condition, follow the Service Procedure to install a seat belt clip to reposition the seat belt tongue upward. Action: Follow the Service Procedure on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria:• 2024 Nautilus • Built on or before 13-May-2024 • Rear outboard seat belt retractors functioning normally and free of damage • Rear outboard seat belt tongue making contact with either rear interior door panel and/or C-pillar moulding Parts Service Part Number Claim Quantity Package Order Quantity Number in Package Description PZ1Z-58611C22-AA 2 2 1 Seatbelt Clip Claim Quantity refers to the total number of individual pieces required to repair the vehicle. Package Order Quantity refers to the amount of the service part number package(s) required to repair the vehicle. Number In Package refers to the number of individual pieces included in a service part number package. Warranty Status: Eligible under provisions of New Vehicle Limited Warranty (NVLW)/Service Part Warranty (SPW)/Service Part New Vehicle (SPNV)/Extended Service Plan (ESP) coverage. Limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. NVLW/SPW/SPNV/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time 2024 Nautilus: Install And Adjust Clip On Seatbelt Webbing On Both (2) Sides Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 242258A 0.3 Hrs. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 58611C22 Condition Code: 07 Service Procedure 1. Snap together and lock both seat belt clip halves over seat belt. (Figure 1) Figure 1 2. Slide clip and belt tongue upwards together along belt webbing until it contacts the belt tongue, and then upwards approximately 6 in. (150 mm). 3. Confirm the seat belt tongue is now 6 in. (150 mm) higher than the previously stowed position. Adjust seat belt tongue position again if necessary to achieve this distance. (Figure 2) Figure 2 4. Verify the seat belt tongue is now free from contacting either rear interior door panel and/or C-pillar molding. 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for other side. © 2024 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources. TSB 24-2258 - Rear Outboard Seat Belt Tongue Rattle - 2024 Nautilus - Built On Or Before May 13, 2024.pdf

update on transmission problem with those codes P0657 and P0742. the cable harness going from PCM to Transmission was bad. on the transmission shift module main plug was checked out 3x by doing a continuity test and all was good but when plugged in transmission connector if you wigged that plug i now can hear the transmission shift solenoids actuate. Problem solved and i got that new harness from the dealer for 275.00 and took 6 hours to remove and replace. I waited a month driving car and problem is gone. I wiggled the new connector/harness at same area, and all is good. Finally, this very intermittent problem is gone.

Thanks for update. How on earth do they think the OTA is possible when you look at all the conditions (SOC, battery voltage, profile mode, etc)? If OTA was so much better, why not do it that way at the dealer? They should be able to force an update through secret commands. I watched a tech try to do it mobile and it looked primitive. = downloaded to tool, build USB key, then insert in car USB and then start update. In my case, it failed to recogize the key and the tech stopped. I considered that as a blessing. He was able to get window fix and the GWN done but balked on the APIM. I have noticed it takes MINUTES for the vehicle to recognize a USB key (like a music USB),

It looks like a wet clutch to me, typical of the wet clutches in most motorcycles.

so i went ahead and disassembled the clutch part of the differential - is this supposed to be a dry clutch? - it had a small amount of lubricant oil in it which seems counterintuitive since it's a series of friction disks and metal disks (12 of them) - it would seem to me that the oil would cause those to not grip each other - but there are two sets of open ball bearings in there that would obviously need lubrication - it operates like an A/C clutch - an electromagnet pulls them all together when energized - perhaps the PCM modulates the voltage to feather in the clutch? - anyway, i could not get it to activate with 12 volts - maybe the electromagnet is what failed in this one

I know....this is going to sound kinda weird... We went to our local Hardee's restaurant a few months back. We parked in the spots right near to the building, which also happen to be near to the drive-through ordering station. When I went to lock the car, the fob did not work. But I did get a notice on the left side of the instrument cluster telling me to restart the car?! I did that, but to no avail. The fob would not work on the car. Neither would my wife's fob. So I moved the car away from the building and everything worked as it should. So I called the salesman at the dealership and he told me he has had several other customers report the same thing! But he thought it was because it was a problem from the pumps at the gas station next door to Hardee's. I'm not so sure about that because it is a couple of hundred feet to the gas station pumps, while the drive through is only about 50 feet away from where we parked. I even tried replacing the battery in the fob, to no avail. So, if you ever have a similar situation, move the vehicle to a different location. It seems that many gas station and drive-throughs use wireless technology rather than wired. GO FIGURE!

Or step 3. It is the current functionality for some reason, and a loss of functionality for some reason. I found that location while vehicle was in motion was the most useful part of FordPass. Now I don't know when my wife is 1 hour away and I need to clean up the house and hide the beer bottles and microwave meal trays.

For anyone else that has this issue, to archive the solution: I brought it to a car stereo repair place and they bench tested it. The display still did not come on for them. I then reset the cable between the APIM and the screen. It's a blue and yellow cable. It now works.

So I’m finishing up now. I ended up going to the auto parts store and buying two relays. I’m using the wires tapped from the front turn signals to pull the coils on the relays, and then I ran a separate 12v power from the battery to power the signals. It works perfect. I wired two load resistors to the un uses turn/stop wire in the taillights so I don’t get hyper flash. Tapped into the third brake light to get my brake signal for the new lights. Everything works great as long as the relays and resistors hold up. What an absolute nightmare. I would suggest to anyone else to just buy a 2011 + lol

Thanks as usual for your updates and contributions. Seems now there is another new Oil Pan with with a separate gasket and does not require replacement of the valve covers. That is good and makes for a cheaper fix. Now we need an extended warranty coverage and at least a one time replacement to the new design pan. Mine started to leak, but isn't significant and still doesn't drip on the floor.

TSB 24-2345 - 2.7L EcoBoost & 3.0L EcoBoost - Oil Pan Leaking.pdf TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 2.7L/3.0L EcoBoost - Oil Pan Leaking 24-2345 25 November 2024 This bulletin supersedes 23-2338. Reason for update: revised Service Procedure, update Part List Model: Ford 2015-2017 Edge Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost 2017 Fusion Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost Lincoln 2017 Continental Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost Engine: 3.0L EcoBoost 2016-2017 MKX Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost 2017 MKZ Engine: 3.0L EcoBoost Markets: North American markets only Issue: Some 2015-2017 Edge, 2016-2017 MKX, 2017 Fusion/MKZ/Continental vehicles equipped with a 2.7L EcoBoost or 3.0L EcoBoost engine may exhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal. This may be due to a lack of RTV adhesion. To correct the condition, follow the Service Procedure to replace the factory oil pan with a press in place gasket style oil pan. Action: Follow the Service Procedure to correct the condition on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria: • One of the following vehicle lines: - 2015-2017 Edge - 2016-2017 MKX - 2017 Continental/Fusion/MKZ • 2.7L/3.0L EcoBoost engine • Oil leak from the oil pan RTV seal Parts Service Part Number Claim Quantity Package Order Quantity Number in Package Description FT4Z-6675-D 1 1 1 Oil Pan FL3Z-6710-B 1 1 1 Oil Pan Gasket KU2Z-6731-A 1 1 1 Oil Filter Element And O-Ring Seals FT4Z-6A832-C 1 1 1 Oil Filter and Cap Assembly Kit 9W7Z-19B596-A 1 1 1 Seal Kit - A/C Compressor Gasket And O-Ring, 1/2 In. (Edge/MKX Only) DL3Z-19B596-B 1 1 1 Seal Kit - A/C Compressor Gasket And O-Ring, 5/8 In. (Continental 2.7L Only) DS7Z-19B596-A 1 1 1 Seal Kit - A/C Compressor Gaskets 8 mm, 1/2 In., 5/8 In. (All Models) HL3Z-19B596-A 1 1 1 Seal Kit - A/C O-Rings - 3/4 In., 1/2 In., 5/8 In. and 3/8 In. (Fusion/MKZ/Continental 3.0L) FT4Z-6626-A 1 1 1 Oil Pump Seal W714265-S442 1 1 4 Left Catalytic Converter Nuts BL3Z-9450-A 1 1 1 Catalytic Converter Gasket Parts - Parts To Inspect And Replace Only If Necessary Service Part Number Claim Quantity Package Order Quantity Number in Package Description ZC-30-A Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Gasket Remover TA-357 Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone XO- 5W30-Q1SP Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (All Markets Except Canada) CXO-5W30-LSP6 Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil (Canada Only) VC-13-G Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Yellow Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant (All Markets Except Canada) CVC-13-G Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Yellow Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant (Canada Only) PM-4-A Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Brake Parts Cleaner - VOC Compliant (All Markets Except Canada) PM-4-B Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner (Not Compliant With Low Volatile Organic Compound [VOC] Requirements) (All Markets Except Canada) CPM-4-A Only If Necessary Only If Necessary Motorcraft® Brake Parts Cleaner - VOC Compliant (Canada Only) Claim Quantity refers to the total number of individual pieces required to repair the vehicle. Package Order Quantity refers to the amount of the service part number package(s) required to repair the vehicle. Number In Package refers to the number of individual pieces included in a service part number package. Only If Necessary indicates the part is not mandatory. Refer to the Service Procedure to determine the inspection/inclusion criteria. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time 2017 Continental 2.7L/3.0L EcoBoost: Inspect And Replace The Engine Oil Pan (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 242345A 3.1 Hrs. 2015-2017 Edge, 2016-2017 MKX 2.7L EcoBoost: Inspect And Replace The Engine Oil Pan (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 242345B 3.2 Hrs. 2017 Fusion 2.7L EcoBoost: Inspect And Replace The Engine Oil Pan (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 242345C 3.2 Hrs. 2017 MKZ 3.0L EcoBoost: Inspect And Replace The Engine Oil Pan (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 242345D 3.2 Hrs. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 6675 Condition Code: D8 Service Procedure 1. Remove and discard the oil pan and oil pump seal. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01, Removal and Installation > Oil Pan. 2. Clean and prepare the engine sealing surface. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00 General Procedures. 3. Install the new oil pump seal. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01, Removal and Installation > Oil Pan. 4. Verify the correct orientation of the new press in place gasket and install the new oil pan. Refer to the WSM, Section 303-01, Removal and Installation > Oil Pan. (1). Apply an 18 mm bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone at the T-joints, where the ladder frame meets the front cover (Figure 1) NOTE: The new oil pan does not require the use of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone in any other location. Figure 1 © 2024 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

I finally got around to performing a drain / fill on my 2019 ST. Rather than recap everything said, I'll post the numbers and results. Fluid out: 5 qt 24 oz Fluid in (net): 7 qt 9 oz Notes: The net amount accounts for the spillage (6 oz) while leveling the fluid using the sight plug Fluid in includes the additional quart added after leveling the fluid and installing the sight plug Slightly elevating the passenger side with a jack while draining helps the fluid drain more quickly / completely Leveling was done with the fluid at 185 F while parked in my garage I was 1/2 qt low even before taking into account the additional quart added after leveling. Most of the lazy shifts and slow engagement is gone. There is still the occasional oddity, but these are now the exception and not the norm. I'll probably reset the adaptive learning again when I have time to properly perform the post reset procedure. Hopefully this was also the cause of the few egregiously slow engagements from a stop, but time will tell.

As @Cerberus stated, H7 is probably overkill, by a big margin. As for fit, I don't expect it to fit. I remeber the battery tray having 3 holes for mounting thr battery, for H5, H6 & H7.

Not 100% sure but I suspect H7 is the largest, and more than the vehicle really needs unless you have auto start stop enabled (which i vehemently advise against)

It is in the manual here. With every oil change. So every 10k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Misfire With DTCs P0301, P0302, P0303, And/Or P0304 Stored In The PCM 24-2384 20 November 2024 Model: Ford 2023-2025 Escape Engine: 1.5L EcoBoost Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost 2025 Explorer Engine: 2.3L EcoBoost 2024 Mustang Engine: 2.3L EcoBoost Lincoln 2023-2025 Corsair Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost 2024-2025 Nautilus Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost Hybrid Markets: North American markets only Issue: Some 2023-2025 Escape/Corsair vehicles equipped with a 1.5L or 2.0L EcoBoost engine, 2024 Mustang vehicles equipped with a 2.3L EcoBoost engine, 2024-2025 Nautilus, and 2025 Explorer vehicles equipped with a 2.3L EcoBoost engine may exhibit an engine misfire condition with DTCs P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 set in the PCM. To correct this condition, follow the Service Procedure to diagnose the vehicle. Action: Follow the Service Procedure to correct the condition on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria: • One of the following vehicles: - 2023-2025 Escape/Corsair - 2024 Mustang - 2024-2025 Nautilus - 2025 Explorer • One of the following engines: - 1.5L EcoBoost - 2.0L EcoBoost - 2.0L EcoBoost Hybrid - 2.3L EcoBoost • Exhibits an engine misfire condition with any of the following DTCs stored in the PCM: P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 Warranty Status: Information Only. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: IN Condition Code: -1 Service Procedure NOTE: This article is for information only. Determine the causal part number and use available labor times in the SLTS Manual or claim M-time in accordance with the Warranty and Policy Manual. Causal part number IN in this article refers to the information only status and is not able to be claimed. 1. Remove and inspect the condition of all spark plugs. Refer to the WSM, Section 303-07. Are any spark plugs damaged? (1). Yes - proceed to Step 2. (2). No - this article does not apply, replacement of the spark plugs is not necessary, proceed with normal diagnostics found in the WSM. 2. Inspect the 12v battery positive and negative terminals for a loose condition, refer to WSM, Section 414-01 and repair as necessary. 3. Inspect all PCM ground circuitry for loose connections and/or high resistance and repair as necessary. 4. Use a borescope to inspect the condition of the affected pistons and cylinder walls. Refer to Figures 1-3 for examples of normal cylinder wall wear and Figures 4-5 for examples of damaged cylinder walls. Additional examples of engine wear can be found in the Engine Failure Analysis GSB > Cylinder Wall and Piston Skirt Inspection. Do the pistons and/or cylinder walls appear to be damaged? Figure 1 - Showing normal cylinder wall wear Figure 2 - Showing normal cylinder wall wear Figure 3 - Showing normal cylinder wall wear Figure 4 - Showing a damaged cylinder wall Figure 5 - Showing a damaged cylinder wall (1). Yes - remove the cylinder head to perform a more detailed inspection of the suspect damage. Refer to the Engine Failure Analysis GSB > Cylinder Wall and Piston Skirt Inspection and repair as necessary. For cylinder head removal, refer to the WSM, Section 303-01. (2). No - perform a compression test and cylinder leakage test following WSM, Section 303-00 and repair as necessary. 5. Replace all damaged spark plugs. Do not discard the damaged spark plugs so Ford can retrieve them following the warranty parts return process. 6. Submit a GCR and include photos of damaged components, images from the borescope analysis and anything else of interest that was found during the repair. These images will help improve engine quality for future model vehicles. © 2024 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources. TSB 24-2384 - Misfire With DTCs P0301, P0302, P0303, And Or P0304 Stored In The PCM.pdf

In my state OBD-II (1996 and newer) is plugged in and uses onboard diagnostics for pass/fail. Only older vehicles are put on a dyno and tailpipe sniffed. If it isn't throwing a code, and isn't showing too many tests not completed, then it passes. Legend has it that CA has sniffers along roads and can fail cars? I don't know if I believe that or not.

I was alone (well for about 1/4 mile front and back) with the cruise on at about 50 mph on a 4 lane road in the slow lane and the car suddenly stood on it’s nose and then turned hard left. I was lucky to be alone as I would have taken out anyone trying to pass. Anyone else had this happen?

@sosaudio1: Ford's parts-selling website search result, based upon your Edge's VIN = Motorcraft Part # GL8783 / Ford Part # F2GZ10346B... Link to this FordParts page Good luck!

Not enough information from the OP, as not all models get Evasive Steering Assist (my 2019 has it because it has Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with ACC), but that was is what I suspect, just not that it was triggered for no apparent reason.

Personally, given the quote I was given to do the job at the dealership, I'd buy or rent the evap pump and gauge set. Even if you buy them it's much cheaper to do it yourself. I already owned the tools so it was an absolute no trainer for me. And yes, I would have recommended R&Ring the belt and idler/tensioner while you're there. I did. I'm in the Knox area but my time is so monopolized by my employer, that i simply don't have enough hours off in a row to even entertain the idea of a job of this size. But it's not a hard job of you have all the tools you need and the perseverance to see it through. The hardest part to me was the awkward positioning on jackstands which had my working the absolute hell out of my neck muscles to nearly the point of failure.. lol

There are better threads that had details on the actual alternator replacement, like the following that has the steps. As far as what alternator it should have, if you put in the VIN in the Ford parts site it should tell you specifically which one it needs, so if that said 175 then it is as good as any unless you take out yours and verify it first.

The following 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual sections, attached below as PDF documents, describe the operation and components of the Adaptive Cruise Control System Lane Keeping/Lane Centering System, and Collision Warning/Collision Avoidance System Good luck! Adaptive Cruise Control - System Operation and Component Description - 2022 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Adaptive Cruise Control - Pre-Collision Assist - 2022 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Lane Keeping System - Overview - Description and Operation - 2022 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Lane Keeping System - System Operation and Component Description - 2022 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Collision Warning and Collision Avoidance System - System Operation and Component Description - 2022 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Regardless of this Wheel Hub's AWD descriptor, using the VIN of a 2016 FWD Edge on Ford's parts-selling website resolves it as fitting FWD also... Link to this FordParts webpage Perhaps the following high-resolution (1500 x 1500) FordParts-linked images can reconcile your question with the Mechanic's comment... Good luck!

Sounds like it's time, once again, to change my randomized 20-character password... Good luck!

The original Forum announcement with Dealer Bulletin details... Emission Recall 24E10 - Certain 2015-2018 Edge with 3.5L Engine - Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM) The Owner Letter you received mentions only "2016" because that's the Model Year of your Edge. I expect the "over time" revelation of the problem is why 2015-2018 Edges are now subject to the Recall. I do look forward to your personal assessment of the updated PCM software's affect upon your Edge's drivability! Good luck!

Thank you for the replies. Im going to look at it myself, Ive done it before, just being lazy but on the other hand dont want to spend $$$ if not needed.

Curious, how did you break it? - need a torque wrench? Sure the 2016 is the same - maybe @Haz can confirm FRONT SUSPENSION. BRAKE COMPONENTS.. 2016 Ford Edge 2.0L EcoBoost A/T AWD SEL Sport Utility | Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL

Great work! Nice write-up and pics.

Is your adaptive cruise control working?

Ford Part # W707501S439, M5 Speed Nut... I expect you may be able to obtain an equivalent Speed Nut in your local hardware store's fastener department for less than $2 each. Good luck!

I have a 2019 AWD Edge and we started noticing a shudder in the rear end at about 66,000 miles. Dealer wanted $180 just to look at it, plus the cost of repairs. After searching online I decided to replace the rear differential fluid. Dealer wanted $62 for 1 quart of "Motorcraft Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid XY-75W-QL". I paid it : ( I replaced the rear diff fluid and on the very first drive the shudder was gone!! Incredible! I'm now solidly in the camp of people who change their trans and diff fluid every 60k miles! I mentioned SSM 52051 to the dealer but they still wanted $180 just to look at it.

I have turned off all of the STUPID DRIVER assists. They are not ready for prime time.

It is when it parked at night that reflectors are a safety feature. You might not be in it, or you might be, with the lights off. That is why the disclaimer on the site for them, but I don't think the do enough to let people know they are removing a safety feature. They are required, and there is a height limit and regulations on if they can be on a moveable section (trunk lid, liftgate...they can't), that is why you see more CUV/SUVs with them (previous generation it was a strip under the lift gate). I find that many vehicles that move the turn signals or the brake lights (again, probably because they have to be on a stationary section of vehicle that doesn't move like a trunk lid), but they are so disconnected from the tail lights that they appear to be an additional vehicle somehow.

You have lost the reflective function, hence when the lights are off there the vehicle is less visible. In other words, it can be deemed less safe.

The new lights are not reflectors. They are solid matt black with an LED strip inserted inside. Not sure about the legality but in my opinion they serve the same purpose if not improve why reflectors were installed there in the first place. Here's the stock reflector: They are 3/8" thick. I suppose if one were motivated enough, one could slice it open to see if there's enough room to insert an LED strip in-between the halves since it looks hollow inside, then glue it back together. Guess it would be both a reflector and light then. I'm not inclined to do that right now. Or perhaps use a Dremel and just cut a notch in just the bottom end of the the reflector to insert the LED strip? I would also add that it seems only one push nut was installed by Ford on one pin of each reflector (even though the service manual shows 2), as can be clearly seen by the cut-in threads on one post, and no marks at all on the second one: