Detailed Tow hitch/ Hitch receiver info for Ford Edge

[carbonedge+]

If you want easier, you pay someone else to do it; that's what I did. Not because I can't (I put one on a '97 Explorer) but because I didn't want to fool with it.

[Lex Talionis]

Just got the hitch today from realtruck.com.... pretty fast ship as it is clearly a drop ship item direct from Curt. Quality looks like nice (welds, paint job, supplied hardware) and it feels stout. BTW, there is a good coupon out there for 8% off = SJ921 used at checkout at realtruck.com, save you some extra coin as they were the cheapest I found it - except for 1 guy on eBay but he has not listed any recently.

 

now.. all I need is the car

[TN-EdgeSEL]

Just a word of caution to you guys installing your own hitches. The factory option to have the tow package installed also includes additional cooling of both the engine and transmission oils due to heat generated from hauling the 3,500 rated towing ability. Agreed, at $395 it is truely a bargain. Here is the problem.

 

If you have the hitch option installed by the dealer, they do not install the engine cooler or the trans cooler for $395. They just install a hitch. Don't pay $395 for just a hitch. They are as cheap as $99 on the net. Harness around $50.

 

Now, the 2nd problem. Without the engine cooling (larger radiator) or the trans cooler, you can not tow the rated $3,500lbs. It will cause problems in both the engine and transmission overheating and most likley cause damage.

 

I discussed this with the dealer and he came back and said towing capacity would be reduced to 2,00lbs. Where he came up with that I don't know. I can't say myself what the towing capacity would be reduced to but I do know it would be reduced.

 

The vehicle itself in it's weight class determines the towing capacity and at 3,500lbs the towed vehicle would HAVE TO have it's own brakes whether they be surge or electric. That goes without saying.

 

It must go beyond that with engine and trans cooling and in the stock form without a FACTORY tow package the stock cooling for both is inadequate. I can't say which would fail first without the added cooling, but at least with the engine you are notified about an overheat situation. Not so with the transmission. Seeing as the trans is cooled through the radiator it probably would add some temp to the engine sensors for overheating, but I am not sure if that increased temp notification would protect the transmission from damage.

 

I notice one guy said he added a hitch and is going to tow a boat over 3000lbs. That would NOT be advisable without additional trans cooling at the very least.

 

Use caution and do some additional investigation before proceeding if you have a dealer installed hitch or if you installed the hitch yourself.

 

Trust me. I have been towing things for 40 years now and have experienced or seen many of the pitfalls, so I know of what I speak.

 

I also picked up an 08 Edge this past Sunday and will have to self install a hitch and dingy tow bar. Awesome vehicle in my opinion and I am not really a Ford Man and this is the first new Ford I have ever purchased. I was that impressed with it, but I also realise it's limitations. You can't have a great fuel ecomomy vehicle and a a great tow vehicle in the same breath and even the higher HP V-8's need additional cooling to be used as tow vehicles. I have my 300hp Avalanche for that.

Edited February 12, 2008 by TN-EdgeSEL

[Lex Talionis]

yes, much of what you post have been covered in several threads. many know after-market is not the same as factory (battery, fans, radiator, wiring, hitch is welded on versus bolted, etc). but it all depends on your needs.. for, me, just to ever carry bikes. would have been nice to just have the hitch done for me in retrospect, but no worries putting one on.

 

BTW, if you can find a Ford Edge hitch Class III for 99$ - your the man. Lots of posts here on the forums and personal web searching, no 99$ quality hitch out there. Best deal is realtrucks.com and use their 8% off coupon code mentioned elsewhere.

[Lex Talionis]

Looks like Ford is now stocking it's own after-market wiring kit. No good photos or details and pretty costly:

 

 

Trailer Hitch Wiring Harness, 4-Pin

Part Number: 7T4Z-15A416-B

MSRP: $103.00

 

This 4-pin wiring harness assembly is made to plug into the factory electrical system. The 4-pin design does not allow the use of trailers with electric brakes. Dealer installation recommended.

 

Fits:

Ford Edge 2008 2007

[TN-EdgeSEL]

yes, much of what you post have been covered in several threads. many know after-market is not the same as factory (battery, fans, radiator, wiring, hitch is welded on versus bolted, etc). but it all depends on your needs.. for, me, just to ever carry bikes. would have been nice to just have the hitch done for me in retrospect, but no worries putting one on.

 

BTW, if you can find a Ford Edge hitch Class III for 99$ - your the man. Lots of posts here on the forums and personal web searching, no 99$ quality hitch out there. Best deal is realtrucks.com and use their 8% off coupon code mentioned elsewhere.

 

 

 

$99 Class III hitch for Ford Edge

Edited February 16, 2008 by TN-EdgeSEL

[Lex Talionis]

$99 Class III hitch for Ford Edge

 

 

I stand corrected. sure enough you found it...

 

 

BUT, they charge 64.00 shipping so in the end, it is 163.22 to get a hitch from them while at realtruck.com it is only 146.32 (140.85+7.95 handling+8.79 shipping - 11.27 with coupon code SJ921). so in the end, realtruck.com is cheaper and uses the more proven Curt brand versus this one of which I am not sure what it is.

[TN-EdgeSEL]

I stand corrected. sure enough you found it...

 

 

BUT, they charge 64.00 shipping so in the end, it is 163.22 to get a hitch from them while at realtruck.com it is only 146.32 (140.85+7.95 handling+8.79 shipping - 11.27 with coupon code SJ921). so in the end, realtruck.com is cheaper and uses the more proven Curt brand versus this one of which I am not sure what it is.

 

 

Not sure where you live, but my shipping UPS ground quote came to $33.59 for a total of $132.59 and it is a class III hitch which although we don't have class III towing capabilities many want it because they can then use existing receivers whether it be bike rack or small trailer.

As far as Curt brand being more proven? How is that? I mean they are both bolt on solid steel hitches designed to handle what they say or face law suits for any failures. How can one be more proven than another?, unless you are quoting Curt hitches claims. I have yet to have any hitch I have ever bought fail. I also have no idea how realtruck can ship 42lbs via UPS for $8.79, so they are padding it elsewhere to make up for low shipping quotes it seems to me. I don't know and I don't care.

 

I really don't care to dispute the differences. I simply said you could buy a hitch for $99 and you disputed that. I gave you the link, you conceded, but then tried to say the Curt hitch is better for some odd reason and say the shipping is more, like you are trying to say what I said wasn't any good info and you had the only good solution to buying a hitch.

 

You spend what you want, where you want and I'll do the same and others can choose whatever they wish also from the information provided. The odds are very good the Curt Hitch and this hitch are one in the same or made by the same company if you know anything about marketing. I mean, like Ford uses only products made by Ford...... right? Are the factory hitches Curt Hitches?.... or generic hitches they get at the best price? My bets are the latter.

[Lex Talionis]

I live in CA.... so for me, twas more expensive which is naturally my point/concern on that front. as for quality, you could be right about similar quality. I do not know as that brand is not really named while you can do a lot of research on Curt. Do I think quality differences exist in products (paint finish, wear, welds, materials, fitment precision).. yes sure - seen it many times in products. will it matter in this case? I do not know but I can tell you this, in this case, the Curt hitch uses 3 attachment bolt points versus the other which shows just 2. good example right there of a product difference with the Curt distributing more load across the frame at 3 bolts versus 2.

 

I think you are reading way more in to what I said than I was implying.. but ultimately I think we both agree that in the end.. who cares really

Edited February 18, 2008 by Lex Talionis

[Lex Talionis]

Installed mine yesterday.

 

It was a solid 1.5 hours (contrary to some sites saying 45 minutes) having never done it but pretty mechanically inclined & a bitchen set of tools. a real knuckle buster. taking the muffler down was the real - tip: use WD40 on the rubber muffler mounts to slick it up to slide them out as you have 3 to remove and drop the muffler. also, be prepared to drill into your frame rail twice for the 3rd bolt (have a nice sharp 1/2 bit). also, have sheet metal shears to cut the heat shields.

Edited February 22, 2008 by Lex Talionis

[gradywhite]

My Ford dealer soesn't install hitches. They use a local tire place that supposedly installs the hitch with wiring and receiver for approximately $170. I will let you know if this price is correct.

[PSM]

How did you end up dealing with the wiring, Lex? I'm in the same boat as you were -- just installed a hitch on my Edge, and now fighting with getting wiring to it.

 

As you probably saw during your install, there is a factory harness under the bumper. Did you ever figure out a way to tap into it, or did you just end up buying the kit with the "T-Connector" for around $40?

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

I live in CA.... so for me, twas more expensive which is naturally my point/concern on that front. as for quality, you could be right about similar quality. I do not know as that brand is not really named while you can do a lot of research on Curt. Do I think quality differences exist in products (paint finish, wear, welds, materials, fitment precision).. yes sure - seen it many times in products. will it matter in this case? I do not know but I can tell you this, in this case, the Curt hitch uses 3 attachment bolt points versus the other which shows just 2. good example right there of a product difference with the Curt distributing more load across the frame at 3 bolts versus 2.

 

I think you are reading way more in to what I said than I was implying.. but ultimately I think we both agree that in the end.. who cares really

[gradywhite]

Sorry, I did not make myself clear. The dealer threw in the Class II hitch and wiring kit from the Lincoln Accessories web site. I will be installing it myself. I will not have the upgraded battery, oil cooler, larger radiator and fans. My towing capacity will be limited, as stated in the owner's manual. No problem for what I will be towing.

 

The hitch and wiring kit arrived Friday with no instructions. There was a reference to a dealer-only web site for installation instructions on the wiring box. The parts man printed those out for me. Problem: He ordered the correct wiring kit, but had only ordered the replacement bumper/hitch unit rather than the hitch kit. He claimed it was correct, but the part number said otherwise. The salesperson took care of the problem and the hitch kit has been ordered. It includes the bumper/hitch and appropriate fasteners/hardware.

 

The wiring kit is spliced into the wiring harness at several places inside the cargo area. There is one power wire which must be run to the main electrical distribution box in the engine compartment.

 

 

 

I have seen on many of the hitch harness posts people talking about having to run a power wire all the way to the front of the car. Wouldn't it be much easier just to tap power off of the 12V power point in the cargo area? If the car is on this would have power and it should have sufficient fuseing to handle the load of trailer lights.

[bgerman]

Yes, I HAVE READ all previous posts. I grilled my dealer (before purchase) for more than an hour about towing capacity. The Edge is not designed as a 'tow vehicle' like most Ford trucks are. It is a Mazda 6 with a Ford body. But, I did not want a truck.

 

Finally I believed the salesman, manager and the brochure about the 3,500 capacity. The wimpy factory hitch? I don't think they had ever seen an Edge with a 2" receiver hitch.

 

So, I bought a lightly used 2008 Edge, with a need to tow a 2,500 lb camper. Next stop - a 2" receiver. Easy, I thought.

 

Went to UHaul first, they gave me zero confidence in them doing ANYTHING to my vehicle. This was the biggest UHaul in Colorado Springs.

 

Just on a whim, went to my local (quality) RV dealer. Asked about hitches and the service guy was an immediate pro about my car and what to do. He and his install mech went out to the car with me, got under it, removed the left tail light cover, checked the wiring with a meter and explained what would be required. Estimated $300-400.

 

 

Went back inside the RV dealer's shop, looked in catalog, ordered 2" receiver hitch (Reese $175), and signed up for the installation.

 

Three days later (hitch took two days for delivery) I had a 2" hitch and an electronic brake ready to test for $666 total. That's right. Buy an Edge with towing package, add $700 to tow your camper! Was I upset at the extra money? Of course.

 

My Edge came with the 'towing package', with 1.25" receiver and 4 pin connecter. To make it a real tow vehicle:

 

Installer had to: cut off factory hitch, install new hitch with 6-pin connector, install electronic brake controller, rewire connector and add wiring (at least one new wire from the tail light) for brake controller.

 

Took them from 9AM to 4PM to get it all done. Several phone calls to me to explain the next problem (mostly cutting off the factory hitch).

 

Keep in mind: Edge factory towing package is essential, read about 'heavy duty' engine parts at Ford.

 

 

My Take: RV dealers are expert with hitches and brake control hook-ups - they NEED to be in order to sell campers. They have the people who can do it right.

 

 

Yes, I paid a lot. My priority when towing is not to worry about ANYTHING going wrong. Being in charge of two vehicles totaling 7,000 pounds (with a hinge point in the middle) at 60 mph is enough to worry about. Colorado cross winds can be 50-60 mph, not unusual at all. Try that while towing a 13' tall slab sided camper!

 

Plus, if the hitch or trailer brakes fail, I'll have somebody to sue.

 

What I DON'T like with the 2" receiver is poor ground clearance - 11". Looking for a way to raise back end 1-2". Any ideas?

 

See photos.

Edited February 28, 2009 by bgerman

[PSUFetch]

I've got a 2008 Edge with the factory tow package and I've been looking to upgrade to a class III as well.

 

It looks like you could have saved yourself some money by not having the shop cut off the factory Class II hitch. According to Curt's website, the 13060 will fit beneath the OE 1.25" receiver. Your pictures seem to back this up as well. I haven't had a chance to really look underneath the rear of the car to see if this is possible though.

 

I'm planning on getting a class III hithch because I'm going to be using a weight distributing system on my trailer and they all need a Class III receiver. From what I've seen here, the Curt seems to have the best quality. I think I'm going to try installing it without removing the factory hitch and see what it looks like, or if it's even possible.

 

I'm also goingot be installing a brake controller this weekend. I'll be sure to take pictures along the way and post a how-to when i'm done (assuming I don't run into any problems )

[PSUFetch]

I finally installed the brake controller and Curt hitch. My write-up is Here

[bob76]

I finally installed the brake controller and Curt hitch. My write-up is Here

 

Hey PSUFetch... I am going to do mine (finally) on the weekend. Did you consider running that power wire (to the brake controller) through the existing fuse panel under the hood (instead of buying your own circuit breaker)? Also, is there a need to run the neutral from the battery to the brake controller or can you just ground it to the frame somehow under the dash?

 

Did you try to take up the trim pieces inside the car (to run the wire) and have a hard time with it? Is it really hard to pry those up?

 

By the way, I thought your write-up was excellent.

[PSUFetch]

Hey PSUFetch... I am going to do mine (finally) on the weekend. Did you consider running that power wire (to the brake controller) through the existing fuse panel under the hood (instead of buying your own circuit breaker)? Also, is there a need to run the neutral from the battery to the brake controller or can you just ground it to the frame somehow under the dash?

 

Did you try to take up the trim pieces inside the car (to run the wire) and have a hard time with it? Is it really hard to pry those up?

 

By the way, I thought your write-up was excellent.

 

 

I had considered running the power wire to a fuse, but everything I read online (and the instructions that came with the controller) said to run the brake power line to a self-resetting circuit breaker. The thought is that if you had a temporary short ciruit (which seems to be somewhat common with the wiring on the trailer itself) the breaker would reset itself once the short had cleared and would give you brakes again. If you used a fuse, it would blow and you would lose brake power until you were able to replace the fuse. I got my breaker on Etrailer.com. I don't remember the cost but i'm pretty sure it was less than $20.

 

As for the neutral, I didn't see a good place to ground the controller under the dash, so since I was running the power wire from under the hood, i decided to run a neutral as well. If you can find a good spot, then there won't be a problem.

 

I did try prying up the trim pieces so that I could run the wiring inside the car. I had planned on running the wiring down the driver's side. As you can tell from my write-up, I abandoned that method and went underneath the car. I got as far as the driver's side front door sill and broke a plastic clip off. That's when I went with the under-car routing. I don't have the patience to remove the trim, and there was quite a bit more to go. I've also never done any car stereo installation before, so maybe someone with more experience with removing trim panels would be able to do it much easier than I could.

 

Thanks for the comment on the write-up. I've learned quite a bit from forums like these and I'm happy to be able to help out when I can. A good tutorial can really be a time and money saver.

 

Good luck on the install.

[oakjefferson]

Tried to order this today through part source (Ontario), they say it's discountinued. I'm going to try Canadian Tire but can't find a Curt Customer Service number

[PSUFetch]

oak,

 

Here is the link to the Curt customer service web page. It has contact info for the various regions. There is one for Ontario at the bottom

 

 

Curt Customer Service Info

[oakjefferson]

found it and got it delivered for $158 with free shipping to Canada!

 

thanks

[momlady]

A question for those of you who have had a hitch/wiring kit installed for you (or the self installers). Ours is just for towing a utility/u-haul type trailer. We had an estimate done by our dealership that said 2.5hrs. We had it installed today and came home without our vehicle because we refused to pay the bill. They said it took them 7.5hrs. I think they are ing crazy and hope to speak to the owner tomorrow. How long should it have taken them? Any comments/advice?

 

Thanks

[PSUFetch]

I think it took me about that much time to install my brake controller and trailer plug, but that's because I didn't know what I was doing. Ther's no way it should have taken a dealership that long to install.

 

With the proper tools and a lift, the hitch should have taken 1-1.5 hours TOPS for a professional to install.

 

At the very least, you have a good case for argument because it doesn't sound like you authorized them to perform 7.5 hours worth of work. They should have called you when they realized it wasn't going to be a 3 hour job to get your permission to keep working. My guess is that you don't have the original estimate in writing. I know I never get it....it's always verbal. That would be helpful in your argument.

 

Be careful how you approach the owner/manager. You'll be much better off if you go in there and calmly talk to them rather than yelling. If the place is run correctly, they should work with you to resolve the problem. You can always escalate from there by asking the owner/manager to provide you with the contact information for the regional service manager. You may need to take this up the chain of command until you get what you're looking for.

 

If they don't help you, make sure you ask them for a customer satisfaction survey. It's typically mailed or emailed to you after you have had service performed. From what I can gather for the few service manager's I've spoken to, the dealerships get dinged if they receive surveys that don't indicate full satisfaction.

 

There's always the possibility of talking with a lawyer. However, the 5 hour discrepancy in their estimate works out to about $350 (assuming $70 an hour of labor). It won't ake long to blow through that with a lawyer.

 

 

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

[momlady]

I think it took me about that much time to install my brake controller and trailer plug, but that's because I didn't know what I was doing. Ther's no way it should have taken a dealership that long to install.

 

With the proper tools and a lift, the hitch should have taken 1-1.5 hours TOPS for a professional to install.

 

At the very least, you have a good case for argument because it doesn't sound like you authorized them to perform 7.5 hours worth of work. They should have called you when they realized it wasn't going to be a 3 hour job to get your permission to keep working. My guess is that you don't have the original estimate in writing. I know I never get it....it's always verbal. That would be helpful in your argument.

 

Be careful how you approach the owner/manager. You'll be much better off if you go in there and calmly talk to them rather than yelling. If the place is run correctly, they should work with you to resolve the problem. You can always escalate from there by asking the owner/manager to provide you with the contact information for the regional service manager. You may need to take this up the chain of command until you get what you're looking for.

 

If they don't help you, make sure you ask them for a customer satisfaction survey. It's typically mailed or emailed to you after you have had service performed. From what I can gather for the few service manager's I've spoken to, the dealerships get dinged if they receive surveys that don't indicate full satisfaction.

 

There's always the possibility of talking with a lawyer. However, the 5 hour discrepancy in their estimate works out to about $350 (assuming $70 an hour of labor). It won't ake long to blow through that with a lawyer.

 

 

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

 

 

Thanks for your reply and advice. I do have the estimate in writing although it is past the 30 day limit of holding them to their price. the difference in price is $600 because the shop rate is $120/hr. (yes, you are reading that correctly. It is expensive to live here). I'll post later to let you know what happens.

[momlady]

Here's the rest of our 7.5 hr wiring/hitch installation story. Received a call from the service dept first thing this am offering to lower the bill to 4 hrs of labor. I told him that wasn't good enough, that I had made calls to dealerships in other cities (the next closest one's are 1 hr and 3 hr drive from here) and that I had been on the edge forum. To bargain further we had to go down in person, which we did. We were then offered the same 4 hr labor bill but they would give us a free service at 24,000km which is currently worth $220. We accepted this as it was a better deal for us than dropping the bill to 2 1/2 hrs. Just goes to show that with a little research and standing firm a happy ending can happen.