Haz, thanks for the detailed response. I had ordered the manuals, they are on the way. It appears that the seal is only deteriorating at the front, so just replacing the front part might be possible. Hope that will work.

Interesting. So No torque specs on that one? Where #4 is the nut on the end that holds the control arm, just on the other side of that end of the control arm there is a little bolt there. I'm honestly not sure what it does. It just has a large washer and doesn't hold anything together lol. Guess it's not as important to have torqued to spec so I will just tightening it a good bit to what feels right for a 12 or 13mm bolt. Thanks again Haz! Its insane how hard it is to find this illustration. Even searching part number torque specs still wasn't giving me the answers I needed but you got them same day I posted. I really appreciate it!

Got to ask, what made you decide against removal of the lens from the new light?

Good job.   Agree, removal of the spoiler isn't easy and I had to pause a couple of times to make sure I was doing the right thing, but in the end all it took was a little more brute force than what I was trying in the beginning.

ok thank you guys ill do some research

Great news. I was able to replace the brake light. It was incredibly difficult to remove the top. Thank you all for all of your help. I ended up going to a mechanic

Historical references attached below as PDF documents...   Good luck!   Customer Satisfaction Program 19N09 - Left Front Door Latch Extended Coverage - 12-12-2019 - Dealer Bulletin.pdf Customer Satisfaction Program 19N09 - Left Front Door Latch Extended Coverage - 12-12-2019 - Technical Instructions.pdf TSB 18-2013 - Door Ajar Lamp Remains Illuminated When Doors Closed.pdf

@jacobson has the same gen as mine, and you suggested he purchase a Dorman off eBay and pop the lens off.   I bought and installed the Dorman and that is why I commented: "Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting."    

@edgemaster: The 2009 Edge Workshop Manual provides the following illustration showing the Fixed Glass panel of your Edge's Panoramic Roof.   You are describing the U-shaped Fixed Glass Front Seal (item 1), which along with the two Side Trim Seals (item 3) fill the gaps at the front and on the left & right sides of the Fixed Glass panel, where channels exist to drain water to the rear of the roof, where it flows out through the left & right side End Caps (item 7)...         As you may already know, the waterproof sealing of the Fixed Glass panel is provided by a continual bead of urethane adhesive applied to the metal roof structure in the shape of Path 1 or Path 2, depending upon the model year of the Edge/MKX...       Ford's parts-selling website offers photos of the Front seal which may be helpful, and which appears to show the red pull-off strip for double-sided tape used to affix the Front seal to the roof, underneath the outer edges of the Fixed Glass panel...   Link to this FordParts webpage           The Workshop Manual does not provide any procedure relating to removal and installation of the Front seal. If it did, I expect because of the minimal clearance between the Front seal's left-hand & right-hand side legs and the seals on the Side Trim pieces, the procedure might involve removal of the Fixed Glass panel by cutting the bead of urethane sealant, cleaning residue from the glass panel and the metal roof, then installing of the Front seal on the roof, apply the continuous bead of urethane sealant, and install the Fixed Glass panel, all of which would very likely involve a professional glass installer.   Working clearances between the rear of the Moving Glass panel and the front of the Fixed Glass panel are greater, however, so if the Front seal is only deteriorated on the front, then it might be possible to cut the existing Front seal away from its side legs, and similarly cut the replacement Front seal after clearing away all remaining rubber from underneath the front edge of the Fixed Glass panel.   I would say, before attempting any of this, it would be prudent to use a feeler gage to assess how much clearance or compression-on-the-seal exists between the bottom of the glass panel and the metal rooftop. If the double-sided-taped seal cannot be freely inserted and affixed underneath the front edge of the Fixed Glass panel, then I expect, services of a professional glass installer may be needed - at a much higher cost.   Good luck!   Roof Opening Panel Glass — Rear Fixed - Removal and Installation - 2009 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Roof Opening Panel — Exploded View Illustrations - 2009 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Believe the FS100 was discontinued over 10 years ago. FS106 is the current one with holes.