One final note while many of the folks on the forum wait for a solution that works to be posted. After installing the new replacement battery, my wife took the vehicle shopping the next morning. I had turned the AC off the night before and reminded her that it would likely still be off when she started the vehicle. It was off, but she insisted that before she turned it on the re-circulate light was on even though the AC was off. Of course it automatically turns on the re-circulate when the AC comes on to help cool the cabin down.   Went out later and tried to duplicate the scenario where the AC is off but the re-circulate comes on anyway. I wasn't able to duplicate it but something completely unrelated happened while I was doing my checks. The engine check light came on, and so I shut the engine off, and tried to see if it was an intermittent fault be restarting the vehicle several times. No dice.   Figuring that the most likely sensor to trigger the ECL was EVAP, I shut the engine off, took a rag with some mineral spirits and wiped the inside of the 'fast fill' cap where the inner flap touches the inside of the filler neck. Let it dry for 5 minutes, re-started the vehicle and the ECL was now out.  OK, I'll take that as a win!   Which all leads me to wonder if every root cause of parasitic draw may be different based on what module is misbehaving. In one case it may be the RF module, or perhaps the HVAC module or even both at once (I believe there is even a trailer towing module) which further leads me to believe based on how many modules make up the complete vehicle, any combination of them could cause parasitic draw individually or in combination.   Need to get back to basics I think. My '78 Tbird only has a fuse panel with 8 or 10 fuses, and pressing the trunk release when the AC compressor kicks in will blow the fuse because they are both on the same circuit. Go figure!   Cheers, Everyone

a fully charged 12v battery at rest is around 12.6 or 12.8 volts. but i have learned that these vehicles all have some level of parasitic draw. even staying alive waiting for you to unlock the doors takes something. but taking a battery down to 3.56 volts will definitely shorten battery life. i always turn the AC and wipers off before shutting the car down but that's just me.

Opening the vehicle to release the hood latch partially woke the vehicle up, and first measurement of standby voltage was 12.38 volts. However, as the vehicle went back to sleep, the standby voltage rose to about 12.45 volts and climbing. Hood is open now, so I'll check again in about a half hour.   Update: 12.56 volts standby    Cracked the rear windows open and put the sun shade on the windshield; - a tad warm here in Niagara Falls Ontario today - 31C with the Humidex: 38C 🥵

Good morning All,   Add our 2016 Edge Titanium to the group of vehicles experiencing parasitic draw when the vehicle should be asleep. To put context around this, I now believe this has been a hidden 'ghost' issue since we bought the vehicle in June 2019 at 44,000 Kms.   Whatever killed the battery actually brought it well below 11 volts over a 4 hour period sitting in the driveway two days ago. The windows were part way down to allow heat dissipation in the cabin, there were no lights on or doors / hatch open and one would think that the vehicle should be asleep.    We were going to go out for an early dinner, and the message on the Sync screen said it had shutdown all unnecessary modules to preserve battery power. The vehicle would not start and putting a Fluke voltmeter across the battery terminals gave a measurement of 3.56 volts. I mean really? 3.56 volts? I attempted to put my electronic battery charger on the battery set to 2 amps, but it kept kicking off because the draw on the battery from whatever was drawing power was much greater than the charger could handle at 2 amps. Didn't try boosting with another vehicle.    I noticed that there was this clicking sound coming from the AC compressor clutch when the electronic charger was first activated, and the symptom would cycle on and off with the compressor clutch clicking on and off every 15 seconds.    NOTE: This is the second CarQuest DieHard battery the vehicle has had since we bought the vehicle used in 2019.     CarQuest was closed so we bought a new Kirkland battery at Costco and installed that in the vehicle so I could at least get the windows up and lock the vehicle.   Meanwhile the DieHard battery, immediately taken from the vehicle, slowly recovered to 12.6 volts over night without any help, so I don't think the battery was the root cause.   I checked the standby voltage of the new Kirkland battery at 12.27 volts fresh off the shelf, which is a normal reading (with a build date of 11/24 BTW) and proceeded to install it. You can install the battery positive first and then attach the negative cable, but it is easier to connect the negative first, slide the battery back into place and then attach the positive cable. Well, I wasn't particularly expecting a significant spark when I attached the positive cable to the battery, but there it was. And the compressor clutch clicked on the moment the battery was reattached.    OK, now the charging system has a reliable power source and the engine will start and run. I haven't done the battery reset function yet, but I read somewhere that just sitting for 8 hours the battery monitor will reset to the new battery. I may be misinformed. I think there are at least 4 different recommended procedures on YouTube to reset the battery monitor.   So then I went into diagnostic mode trying to figure out what was drawing the power (still had no idea how much of a drain it was), but perhaps my 30 year old $300 Fluke meter can help me do that.   I've noticed that remote entry may be misbehaving from time to time, for example the vehicle self locks on me at the gas station while I pump gas. In this scenario, the only way to unlock the driver's door (normally by touching the handle) is to open the rear passenger door first. Rolling my eyes!   Refocusing on the parasitic draw issue, I noticed that if I leave the AC button on when the vehicle is shut down and parked, there is 'something' drawing power because the voltage will drop from 12.6 volts standby to as low as 12.11 volts over an 8 hour period. However, if I turn the AC off before I shut the vehicle down, standby voltage stays around 12.6 volts. And Oddly, I have two batteries I can monitor as my 'benchmark' for standby voltage, - the recently replaced DieHard that sits at 12.6 volts on the garage floor and the heavy duty 10 year old 12 volt battery in my 1978 Tbird that also registers 12.6 volts while disconnected.   I could now pull the fuse on the AC compressor clutch (now that I know where it is), to see if that reduces the parasitic draw, because obviously there is something drawing power when the vehicle should be asleep. BTW, the vehicle has been sitting locked up since 8:30 last night and as of this posting it is 13 hours in sleep / standby. The AC was shut off last night before shutting the vehicle down and locking it, so I'll see what standby voltage is now and report back.   I was going to replace the AC clutch relay thinking that possibly it was sticking on when the vehicle was parked but now, after reading through the original poster's story, I think this is more of a symptom than a root cause.   Summary:   Vehicle Mileage: 101,750 Kms or about 63,240 miles   I think that whatever killed the original factory battery 3.5 years into its life may well have been the result of some 'ghost' parasitic draw from some module in the vehicle.  This 'ghost' also killed the first DieHard battery two years after it was installed (and it probably didn't need replacement), and then this parasitic draw attempted to kill a second DieHard making me believe this is not a faulty battery issue at all. It would be great if a simple software update would fix this, but I am doubtful.   Thoughts anyone?

Disc Brake squeal lets one know the brakes are working and there is no charge for those features. (joke)    

Just bought a 2024 Edge and the breaks squeal when I back out of the garage. No noise going forward......yet.

Welcome to the Forum @DaBlinky!   The sales brochure for the 2008 Edge references availability of a remote start system through Ford Accessories, and the 2008 Edge Workshop Manual offers no technical information, indicating that remote start was a non-factory/dealer-installed feature.   Attached below as PDF documents are installation instructions and a diagnosis guide for the Ford Accessories system, and also the wiring diagram for the standard starting system, without any remote start system.   Good luck!   Remote Start Installation Instructions - 2008 Edge-MKX - Ford Accessories.pdf Ford Powercode Remote Start System - Diagnosis Guide.pdf Conventional (No Remote Start) Starting System - Wiring Diagram - 2008 Edge.pdf

Why not just fix it? They always brake at the same place, simple wiring repair.

Who uses a parking brake these days.  Is there just a way to pull a fuse or just turn off the warning and let it be?

As I mentioned before, even though the car has been without starting for more than a whole day, which would obviously make it cold, as soon as I start the engine, the AWD Off error appears. In this case, could it be the PTU temperature sensor? Is there a separate temperature sensor for it that I can examine or buy a new one? I imagine that if there is, it may be sending wrong information to the ECU and it is disabling the AWD thinking that it is overheating, when in fact it is not.