RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W Disconnect RDU Fluid XY-75W-QL   PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Rear Axle Fluid XY-75W85-QL / WSS-M2C942-A   ATF: Motorcraft MERCON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-12-QULV / WSS-M2C949-A / MERCON ULV

Can I please get the correct PTU and RDU fluid type for my 2023 ST. I haven't been able to find them in the owners manual. I've seen different varying types on You-tube videos and and I just want to be clear what are the Ford recommended ones for my particular vehicle.   I'd like to know the exact fluids and then maybe get the Amsoil equivalent, or another type if anyone believes there is something better than the Ford recommended type for the PTU, RDU, Transmission & engine oil.

Wow, great. Nice!  

Thanks Haz and excuse the slow reply. Went under and I tightened all the bolts. They were just slightly loose. No leaks anymore.

NEVER!!! Everything except the brake pads and tires and wiper bladesare OE on the 08 Edge!

Replaced the battery almost a year ago. Went well no problems, now almost a year later there appears to be corrosion forming on the ground from the battery to the frame.    Should I grease this?    Thanks

When did you replace the water pump?   Thanks

One final note while many of the folks on the forum wait for a solution that works to be posted. After installing the new replacement battery, my wife took the vehicle shopping the next morning. I had turned the AC off the night before and reminded her that it would likely still be off when she started the vehicle. It was off, but she insisted that before she turned it on the re-circulate light was on even though the AC was off. Of course it automatically turns on the re-circulate when the AC comes on to help cool the cabin down.   Went out later and tried to duplicate the scenario where the AC is off but the re-circulate comes on anyway. I wasn't able to duplicate it but something completely unrelated happened while I was doing my checks. The engine check light came on, and so I shut the engine off, and tried to see if it was an intermittent fault be restarting the vehicle several times. No dice.   Figuring that the most likely sensor to trigger the ECL was EVAP, I shut the engine off, took a rag with some mineral spirits and wiped the inside of the 'fast fill' cap where the inner flap touches the inside of the filler neck. Let it dry for 5 minutes, re-started the vehicle and the ECL was now out.  OK, I'll take that as a win!   Which all leads me to wonder if every root cause of parasitic draw may be different based on what module is misbehaving. In one case it may be the RF module, or perhaps the HVAC module or even both at once (I believe there is even a trailer towing module) which further leads me to believe based on how many modules make up the complete vehicle, any combination of them could cause parasitic draw individually or in combination.   Need to get back to basics I think. My '78 Tbird only has a fuse panel with 8 or 10 fuses, and pressing the trunk release when the AC compressor kicks in will blow the fuse because they are both on the same circuit. Go figure!   Cheers, Everyone

a fully charged 12v battery at rest is around 12.6 or 12.8 volts. but i have learned that these vehicles all have some level of parasitic draw. even staying alive waiting for you to unlock the doors takes something. but taking a battery down to 3.56 volts will definitely shorten battery life. i always turn the AC and wipers off before shutting the car down but that's just me.

Opening the vehicle to release the hood latch partially woke the vehicle up, and first measurement of standby voltage was 12.38 volts. However, as the vehicle went back to sleep, the standby voltage rose to about 12.45 volts and climbing. Hood is open now, so I'll check again in about a half hour.   Update: 12.56 volts standby    Cracked the rear windows open and put the sun shade on the windshield; - a tad warm here in Niagara Falls Ontario today - 31C with the Humidex: 38C 🥵