Did you bleed the abs module? 

Just for fun ...    In as much as they didn't remove the hub, and they had to cut the broken stud off to get enough room to remove it; how did they get the new one on?     

I was having the same issue, but I have figured out the cause of my issue.  The ignition switch has a sensor in it that reads a signal from the key.  The vehicle is programed for specific keys with unique signal on each key.  I installed a phone holder that has a wireless charger about 2 inches from the ignition switch.  When I place the phone into the charger it creates a magnetic field.  That magnetic field is disrupting the ignition switch/key pairing capability.  I moved the phone charger to the other side of the radio (away from the ignition switch) and have no more issues.  I can duplicate the issue every time I move the phone charger (when charging) close to the ignition switch. 

2/32 - 3/32 difference should be okay. Anything more you might end up with AWD disabled. Tirerack and other places will shave a new tire to match the existing ones, but not all places can.

My rear driver side tire picked up a screw and started leaking. Screw was to close too sidewall for repair and had to be replaced.    All four tires were 80,000 mile tires with only 11,000 miles on them. Tires haven't been rotated.   Tire shop replaced the tire with exact same tire brand and tread under road hazard warranty.   Asked if it was ok as this being an AWD, they said it was because there wasn't a lot of miles on them.   Is this ok? Should I get the tires rotated? That would put the new tire up on the front passenger side.   Thanks  

I wasn't willing to pay $40+ for this, so I found the connectors and made my own for much less, without messing with the wiring in my vehicle (old me would have used t-taps). Dongar shows 2021+ and SEL or higher (with auto dimming mirror, but all models have it starting in 2019).   So this connector under (well, over) the plastic cover in front of the rear view mirror is 6 pins on yours?

In my state OBD-II (1996 and newer) is plugged in and uses onboard diagnostics for pass/fail. Only older vehicles are put on a dyno and tailpipe sniffed. If it isn't throwing a code, and isn't showing too many tests not completed, then it passes. Legend has it that CA has sniffers along roads and can fail cars? I don't know if I believe that or not.

is there anyway I can get the front cushion on the driver seat to go down more? It's giving me one heck of knee pain in my right knee even on short drives TIA

They are very useful files. Thanks a lot.

I am a bit suspicious on how Ford got away with (I assume) being out of allowable tailpipe emissions for so long before doing anything about it. I would have thought this forum would have been full of people that live in states that require emissions check complaining as to their vehicle failing that test. That didn't happen, right? What changed?