Here's to hoping that end o-ring holds that fiber gasket on.    I would have removed the cooler completely but the subframe was in the way. Maybe if the exhaust gets dropped you can swing the metal element down.   

When you pull the cooler out, keep in mind that there is a fiber gasket at the end of the cooler along with another O-ring. If that comes off, then you might end up with a fiber gasket floating around in the PTU. See pics:

I just found out that there is an updated version using Magsafe: 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024 Ford Edge Phone wireless charging phone mount | eBay 

Well, when I activated the active park assist for a parallel park, it told me, essentially, hands off the wheel and feet off the pedals.  It did it all and damn fast.  But accurately.

Great write up!

Yes. Active park assist uses the front side sensors to detect the parking spot. The system only controls the steering. It is the driver’s responsibility to control the speed of the vehicle by using the gas and brake.

I registered my edge in the early access program so that maybe why i got 6.4.0. From all that I've read ford has the most bizarre system for updating cars. I have seen that 24s have a new version of sync, I feel like it is coming to the other years just whenever Ford feels like it. 

My last power up was 6.2.0 at end of Jan …….haven’t received 6.4.0 update yet……I am located in Canada so not sure that creates delays? …….agree not sure why “x” shoeing for m/y 2021…..use to show latest sync level…….   i have read that it appears that the M/Y 2024 has have an new sync apim update which changed some of the screen layout icons etc

The last update I received on my 21MY Ford was Software Update 6.4.0 in February.   I think the 21MY vehicles get updates last or whenever Ford feels like it. I don't know if you check other forums on vehicles with SYNC4 but it does seem like the 21s are last to be updated.   Not much we can do stressing about updates, whenever we are blessed by Ford is when we will get updates

Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here.   The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out.     Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them.         The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically.  Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up.  Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend.         I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it.          In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk.         Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb         Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine.          All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum.        And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period.