The RDU saga - long post     So I tackled the install of my “new” RDU last week – it took about 7-8 hours for the complete job – seemed too long for me – the problem was those T-50 torx bolts that hold the RDU to the front brackets – I got the drivers side loose and out easily, but the passenger side ones would not come loose – to the point that the spines in the bolt stripped out and ruined my bit – wound up just removing the entire bracket and using the air hammer and chisel to get those bolts out of the RDU – that accounts for at least an hour and a half      The rest was pretty ordinary – just a lot of removing and installing bolts – one problem I encountered was the axle nut on the RR roughed up it’s threads while removing it – the edge of the nut was hammered in to lock it (I assume) – I could not see a way to release it from the threads so it flattened out the threads a bit – It went back on and torqued to specs but, if I ever have to remove it again I might need a new axle shaft - my Launch code tool coded the replacement RDU to the PCM     So got it all back together and took it for a test drive – while the growling/grinding noise is gone, it clicked when turning from a stop – I disconnected the electrical connection on RDU and noise disappeared – so I’m figuring the clutch portion of the replacement RDU is defective..?? – I removed the clutch part of the replacement and it had gear oil in it – there is a seal between the two but it failed – I don’t know what the oil does to the clutch part but I’m pretty sure that’s what caused the clutch to fail      To remove that seal with diff in car you have to basically destroy it – the seal on my original diff did not leak, but it to was looking rough from the removal process - I thought it a good idea to replace it and looked up the part number stamped on it – went to Ford and the one they had (same part number) was way to big – when they looked up the part number it showed the seal for the front of the clutch where it connects to drive shaft, not the seal between the diff and the clutch – they could not explain why they both have the same part number and that was that – I wound up rehabbing my original seal and reinstalling it        I took the clutch portion off my original RDU and put it on the replacement RDU – removing that from the gear portion is pretty simple – the code for the clutch portion is etched into the unit (pic) – recoded my original clutch back into PCM        I disassembled the gear portion of my original bad RDU – the gear set looked to be ok as did the left and right side output bearings – the growling was from the pinion bearings – these are double row ball bearings – the cage they are in is plastic – I’ve never seen that before – I don’t know what caused the bearing to fail (it was always lubricated) – it gouged up the race and balls pretty bad, so that’s where all the metal in my oil was from – I removed the race from the pinion gear with a puller – if you could find these bearings I think these units would be rebuildable – the L/R side bearings are a standard bearing (LM-501314) – the pinion ball bearings had no identity markings on them so I’m not sure if they can be obtained       So the car is back on the road and the AWD seems to be operating normally – if that rehabbed seal does not leak I think it’s a good fix - total cost for this was around $500 – that includes new wheel bearings, axle shafts, the junkyard RDU, seals, and fluid – hopefully it lasts the rest of the car’s life – thanks to all for the input and advice – and I took the above advice and did not drill a drain into the RDU – I’ll change as much of the oil as I can every 20K miles or so and hope it holds

Thank you again!

Ford Part # W707501S439, M5 Speed Nut...     I expect you may be able to obtain an equivalent Speed Nut in your local hardware store's fastener department for less than $2 each.   Good luck!  

Hey everyone, I’m on the hunt for the best way to install a remote start on my 2022 SE Edge. As I mentioned in the title, I have a 2022 SE model, and I’ve been looking through various topics on the forum, but I can’t seem to find any information specifically tailored to my car. The guides I found are for older models, and I’m hoping someone can shed some light on this for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!   Thanks

Well, I drove the Lincoln this past weekend much more than I have previously. There is a "small" vibration at about 20mph that goes away at higher speeds. It may be the worn out bushings in the rear, a marginal motor mount, or the driveshaft is a bit out of balance. For the time being I am just going to monitor it. My wife drives it 60-70 miles daily and tells me it's better than it was. It has rattles, but, with 270K miles it has earned them. Seems ok for now. I just want to get through the winter and early spring at this point then I can try and either really tear into it or find a replacement. My fleet is made up of older vehicles; the Lincoln is our newest car at this point. I have a severe aversion to car payments so I am not in any hurry to find another car at this point in time. I am sure there will be more repairs, but, in the 1000 miles we have put on it so far it does not use any oil and runs and shifts just fine.  Stay tuned.....

Thanks much for that info.  Thread topic title corrected from "push nut". Guess I just need the correct inner diameter to fit the pins.

I have a 2019 AWD Edge and we started noticing a shudder in the rear end at about 66,000 miles.  Dealer wanted $180 just to look at it, plus the cost of repairs.  After searching online I decided to replace the rear differential fluid.  Dealer wanted $62 for 1 quart of "Motorcraft Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid XY-75W-QL".  I paid it : ( I replaced the rear diff fluid and on the very first drive the shudder was gone!!  Incredible!  I'm now solidly in the camp of people who change their trans and diff fluid every 60k miles! I mentioned SSM 52051 to the dealer but they still wanted $180 just to look at it.

That's called a "speed nut" and @Haz could help with the Ford part number.   It actually threads on, not push-on.   Many places stock this type of thing. TIFCO Industries - Auto / Body Shop, Speed Nuts, Metal Screw, Flat   Ford Lincoln Mercury 1/4"-20 Thread Pal Speed Nuts Dash Trunk Firewall 10pcs LB | eBay   Ford 3/16" Stud Dash Trim Molding Clip Emblem Pal Thread Cutting Speed Nuts 10 Q | eBay        

Anyone have the Ford OEM part number for a 2020 SEL bumper reflector speed nut? Just need the speed nut part number. Dealer couldn't find it. Thanks!

I'm in. My 60s, have had many Fords but this one has me stumped. I fill up the washer fluid tank.. front works fine.. attempt to wash the back window, i hear the pump, no fluid. I pulled the lines under the hood, I have pressure. Blew air from front to back. I see fluid coming out. I attemp several more times to get washer fluid to the rear.. nothing. Then the low washer light comes on and there is no sign of a leak anywhere! No puddle. Where the heck is it going and how?