Some months back, I ran over something which destroyed my rear driver tire. I only had about 17,000 miles on the original tires. I had the service writer confirm with the shop that I only needed one tire. I was relieved. I have my tires rotated twice a year with the oil change.
36K miles and three years after replacing the EVAP valve its stumbling at idle immediately after gassing up, and NO I don't click the nozzle again after it shuts off.
No codes this time and I removed the valve and without power its shut and holds vacuum.
Might buy just the valve and attempt to install it on the original assembly.
As a follow up. I replaced the harness to the headlight once again. I found the ground side (BK-GN) of the harness was melting the connector. I removed the 10mm nut of the grounding stud and sanded the paint off around it and reinstalled the ground wires. Headlight is still working after 4 weeks. Thanks to Haz and his diagrams for helping me solve this issue on the wife's Edge.
For any difference in wheel diameter/circumference between the left/right wheels on any differential front/rear will have that differential working harder for every mile covered, and the size of that difference will determine how many miles before failure.
Tire rotation is important, but has nothing to do with the impact on the differential due to diameter/circumference.
The left/right imbalance might be more detrimental on the front as the front wheels are always powered, whereas the rear disengage at cruising speeds.
Some tire places will trim a new tire to match the existing three.
Been reported in the truck forum that the APIM has been found with broken solder joints. Before spending the bucks, joints. Could pop open the module and look for cracks in the traces or cold solder jounts.
More likely that they needed 5 wire connector and had a 6 pin already spec'ed for a different application (money savings.l, less inventory. ) Back of my ACU has a plug where the rear camera plugs into. Only needs two wires but has pins for 10.
I have this issue right now with my 2014 Ford Edge. Alternator replaced in Sept 2023. Kept throwing “Check Charging System” …. Dealership replaced alternator and did all other routine maintenance.
It wasn’t a daily driver from Sept 23 to June. And since then the light comes on and off. Well, Monday everything shut down. Car wouldn’t start. Was jumped. Advance said alternator and battery were allegedly fine. But maybe starter. Took to dealership, they report back just needs new battery. Battery replaced, 5 miles later same error. Go back to dealership. They “reset” everything. Same error again.
Seems this is a known issue on this forum and others. But I’ve been to two dealerships without success. Anyone know what I need to specifically tell them when I take it back?
No “aftermarket” anything, but vehicle does have remote start and seat warmers. I mention seat warmers only because they were also “fixed” in September 23.
thanks!!!