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@nicole1985 it sounds like a problem with the Air Distribution Door Actuator.   The parts aren't expensive but need fair DIY skills - I estimate a shop would charge around $300 for parts and labour. 

Thanks! Yes, the color pretty much matches OEM led color temp. Did you see the YouTube link I shared? You can watch the full startup sequence.    Below is the one I bought. If you want any additional install info or tips, feel free to DM.   UHANBUT 71 Inch Exterior Car LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FCBRJ7PT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share  

I can't be sure that its the same as my 2.7L but I recently replaced both front CV axles and didn't lose any fluid.

If the engine block was replaced, then obviously everything had to be disconnected and reconnected back again.   I presume you looked up the P1016 code and found this: Search Assistant  The P1016 code indicates a "Wastegate Control Pressure Higher Than Expected," which typically relates to issues with the turbocharger wastegate solenoid or associated hoses. Common fixes include checking for vacuum leaks, replacing the wastegate solenoid, or inspecting the turbocharger system for restrictions.  fordedgeforum.com diag.net     As with many codes, there is no one reason / answer to consider to get a resolve. I also looked just now and found this as well.  There are probably other results, depending on how hard one looks:   Key Takeaways The P1016 code indicates a fault in the reductant control module sensor serial communication circuit, triggering a high voltage level detection. Possible causes include a faulty Reductant Quality Sensor, wiring issues, or a malfunctioning Reductant Control Module. Symptoms of the P1016 code include the Engine Light ON and reduced engine performance, potentially leading to difficulty starting the vehicle. To fix the code, inspect the related wiring harness and connectors, repair or replace damaged parts, and clear the code to see if it returns. Diagnosing the P1016 code requires a thorough understanding of the reductant control module sensor’s serial communication circuit and sensor testing.   https://carscounsel.com/p1016-code/

I just got the P1016 code. But this only came up after months of when I first encountered loss of power. I first confronted loss of power within a week of having the engine block replaced because of the “coolant intrusions”. I took it to the dealer on Monday and they said they found nothing wrong. I told them that if Im paying for a diagnostic, they better find whats wrong. It could be something as simple as not fastening the vacuum hose when they did the engine block replacement. This is just my guess. 

Going to be replacing cv axles on my 2008 FWD Edge. First time in 242,000 miles! I keep hearing that I will lose transmission fluid when I remove the drivers side axle. Does anyone know how much I will lose? Is it just a few ounces or is it quarts? 

If his sig is still accurate it's a 2019 Edge ST

johnmarkp. What year is your ST and how many miles do you have on it? I have a 2024 with about 12 thousand miles and have encountered a few rattle and shake noises myself. My recent one was a panoramic moonroof issue which I believe I have solved. Last year I made a post about a rattle/squeaking sound coming from the same area you are dealing with. It only occurred at higher speeds. I ended up tightening all the screws that hold that same splash shield and the noise went away. All the fender well splash shields are attached so poorly, I could see that being your issue.  When Ford introduced the ST they stiffened up the suspension, and the end result was more rattles! Very irritating to say the least. Keep us posted.  

I have managed to figure out what was causing most of the weird rattling on my ST.  Now I am getting a rattle from the rear of the Edge that only happens at low speed.  I am pretty sure it is being caused by the driver side splash shield that is attached to the left side of the bumper by two screws and to the body by two more.  There is a lot of shield that is not attached to anything.  I think it only happens at low speed because the shield is pushed back and down by the air movement.  I am going to figure out a way to attach it to other things.  The first try will be the tying it to the wheel liner with some screws.  I will report back.  Top is the area with the two small and one large hole.  This attaches to the underside of the body.  The two clip on nuts attach to the bottom of the bumper.

Hi All,   We are having issues with the traction control light coming on when cornering as well as the steering wheel off center when driving straight. Turning the wheel sounds like popping on the upper strut plate. Not sure if it is though. I have Forscan available and do not see any service procedure to center the steering wheel for this model. I am not sure if this may be related to the USB dongle, or is not available for the particular year. New Ford clock spring purchased for our vehicle. Codes were, U0131-00-28 and U0415-00-08. I drove the car for several miles and watched wheel speed and voltage, steering angle as well as a few other items to try and pinpoint the problem. I saw no glitches and the output looked OK at the time. Can someone provide the procedure or know if the Forscan software allows the centering service.   Thanks,   MAK