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So: Pressing a button to lock/unlock/remote start doesn't work from outside the vehicle? Proximity unlock/lock (pulling on door handle with key near to unlock, pressing button on door handle with key near to lock) doesn't work? Proximity to liftgate open (pushing button in pull opening with key near) doesn't work? Once in the vehicle, with key fob, pressing start button says no fob found until you use the emergency slot? Not related to the issue, but you shouldn't clean the dielectric grease off the contacts, most of these remotes have text that says not to.
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Two weeks ago I stopped at the dealership on the way home from work and they promised that a mobile mechanic would contact me and inspect the car at my work place - that didn't happen so I stopped this afternoon and unlike previous recalls where they gave me the parts and marked it as complete, they wanted me to leave the car there for a day some time next week. I asked if they had the camera in stock and they weren't sure so I headed to the parts folks and they said there's no stock and likely only have stock in Feb 2027 - they quoted $112.45 I just bought one online for $75 and will install it myself. Part number looks the same as the old one seen in the photo above. Old: F2GZ19G490-AD New: F2GZ19G490-A Even if its identical I'm not too concerned seeing as it will last beyond the date I plan to sell the Edge.
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Bought this car new 2014 and the FOB’s with factory remote start have worked great, 100,000kms or about 60,000 miles now. Here is what I have eliminated: - it’s not a location issue, started fine in my driveway or anywhere else for 12 years - neither of the two factory fobs work, new Duracell 2032 lithium batteries at 3.3 volts, all contacts cleaned - removed the 12V car battery last night(8 years old) and installed a brand new one today, so it sat overnight with no battery if anything needed to reset. Now the funny thing is it started acting a little funny earlier this week. Like the door lock/unlock would work sometimes but not other times, and the remote starter would not work, then it would. It was hit and miss for a few days. Right now it’s not working so I have to put the FOB in the console slot to start it. Also I looked under the hood for any type of switch/pin, like the aftermarket remote starters have, but I don’t see one, but I was thinking if it thinks the hood is released it may not remote start the car, but I dunno? 1- Is there a way for me to try resetting the fobs? 2- Will hooking up my Blue Driver tool tell me anything? There are no check/indicator lights on, but I have not really used the Blue Driver tool yet, so not much experience with it. 3- Any other ideas that I can try? I’m all ears, LOL. Thanks. -
I don't understand what that bold part has to do with the discussion in this thread, i.e. what is the best option to use for this specific vehicle.
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we all know that most of the shops just use universal coolant for years with no problems(sometimes except EU cars). So I think I will just replace one gallon - that's it.
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By Samurai Edge · Posted
NZP said: The main reason - to lower the freezing point, which is -15 Celsius now in my current old coolant. I drove last 3 winters with no problems. I used to work as a mechanic for years and most of the shops I know just add this yellow universal coolant to almost any car. My current coolant is very clean but I diluted it with boiled distilled water at the time I replaced my water pump 4 years ago. You seem to already have all the answers you needed before posting here. As 1004ron said above said previously, and I also said, there is no one coolant for all cars. As 1004ron also said Ford has updated is formulas and, IIRC, the latest version of coolant, Yellow, is backwards compatible. Where the differences in coolants exist is in what you don't see. Manufacturers use certain materials in their radiator construction. In doing so, manufacturers specify certain chemicals, or combination of chemicals, to work with the radiator internals for a lasting life. Changing the specified formulas could / may / will have a negative reaction to the radiator materials, and possibly something elsewhere within the motor. BUT . . . as already state, use whatever coolant you want. It's your choice. -
@Samurai Edge in this case the Owner's Manual specification has been superseded as mentioned by @dabangsta and this was due to research and development by Ford to reduce the risk of this V6 engine with its internal coolant pump. Ford also revised the fluid for my 2017 V6 which doesn't have the risk of the internal coolant pump, and that's what I stick with. There's certain fluids and lubricants that I use Non-OEM such as brake fluid, engine oil, RDU and PTU oil, and some that I stick with the OEM such as the coolant where we don't have the specific chemical composition and the reason for Ford's revision.
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@NzP what exactly do you mean by that - are you a trained and qualified mechanic?
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