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By Samurai Edge · Posted
What we are all trying to tell you is stick with OEM Ford Motorcraft coolant. Just make sure you use the correct formula for your Edge. Check your Owner's Manual for the correct formula. Ford, like other manufacturer's, design a specific formula coolant for their vehicles. It is designed for a specific purpose. Other coolant manufacturer's, like Prestone, Peak, and numerous others, design their formulas to be a formula for every brand car, a one size fits all, despite the fact that are specific differences between different formulas for different cars. Will they work? Mostly if you pick the right one. Will they void a warranty? Probably not. Will they do the EXACT same thing as the manufactures specified formulas? NO -
So I got a headache again: My water pump failed at 105K(right after I bought the car), so I assume no one changed coolant since beginning. Are u trying to say that Peak Full Force won't work?
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Your 2009 was a transition year, from Gold to Dark Green. HOAT to POAT change. If there was one thing I wouldn't trust to AI is coolant in any Ford with the 3.5. I changed my coolant every 40,000 miles on my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, and at 160,000 I had the water pump failure that filled the crank case full of coolant. You can't even say if it is conventional green or long life, just keep pasting in the formulation. Look up the Ford specification like WSS-M97B51-A1 or WSS-M97B55-A (your owners manual should tell you, and if it is like my other transition year cars, a sticker on the degas bottle, or a build date cut off) and see of the coolant you are trying to use, I assume the Peak Full Force (conventional or long life) wasn't tested, certified, or says it meets either of those specifications.
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The noise was actually the LED taillights I switched to. I removed them.
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I think I am going to drain 1 Gal of original green(or blue) coolant(I tested it with a tester that has plastic balls inside - 2 balls were floating only which tells the freezing point is -15C) and will add 1 Gal of brand new PEAK Full Force (water(7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6), Denatonium Benzonate(3734-33-6) and Proprietary inhibitors)- an AI said it will work but I don't really want to trust an AI.
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By Samurai Edge · Posted
Nzp It seems you are going to a lot of extra work for a simple coolant flush but do whatever you feel you need to do. I don't understand why you can't return the pre-mix coolant you already bought UNLESS you already opened it? -
Also I got another idea: - loop the heater core in-out; - remove the thermostat; - disconnect the lower radiator hose(from radiator) and put in a bucket with fresh coolant; - disconnect the upper radiator hose(from radiator) and put it in an empty bucket; - start the engine up and let the water pump do the job(I hope the engine will not seize working for 10-15sec). What do u think, guys? P.S.: seems like it will not work because of the water outlet inner design...
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I have got one canister of PEAK Full Force (water(7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6), Denatonium Benzonate(3734-33-6) and Proprietary inhibitors) + 2 canisters of PEAK (free of 2-EHA, silicate, nitrite, borate, and amines. Compatible with any color or type of antifreeze and coolant.) Now I think if I could disconnect the radiator and the heater core, loop inlet and outlet(heater core) and apply water from garden hose to the lower or upper radiator hose inlet to rinse the old coolant out of the engine(instead of using the air - but I am still not sure if it works this way).
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Could you tell us what brand and specific type of premixed coolant you intend using? .
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