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The lighter wheels were an aid in handling. AKA road racing. It does this by reducing unsprung weight, so the suspension follows the irregular road surfaces better.  Now if you want to go around corners.........  

Hi all. I know this has been covered to death, but I had an idea.   I have a friend with a 2016 Edge 2.0l ecoboost with 106k miles, Cleveland engine.  It just started showing signs of the dreaded head gasket failure.  #1 spark plug has burnt coolant on it, intermittent P0301 code, rough idle on startup. She's on a tight budget and bought the car used from a private party, I seriously doubt any dealer is going to swap the long block for what she can afford, or for less than what the car is worth for that matter. I did some research.  Seems that Mustangs with the 2.3l of similar vintage have the same issue, same cause, particularly when modded.  I found a race shop on the web that sells a kit that supposedly fixes the problem.  It consists of a set of ARP head studs and a modified head gasket. I looked at the factory head bolts and they seem pretty wimpy.  So bad that they're even fully threaded.  I checked the part number and the 2.0l uses the same studs as the 2.3, so the ARP kit should work, although APR does not list the 2.0l as an application for them.  There are 2 ARP kits available, Pro Series (251-3701) for around $110 or CA625+ (251-4303) for about $400.  The race shop sells the CA625+ variant. I see that Ford lists 2 head gaskets for her car.  One that appears to be the original factory installed part (FB5Z-6051-A), and one that looks to be an improved version (HS7Z-6051-A) I couldn't find any notes regarding supersession or usage.  It could be that the later version is intended for the retrofitted long block (J2GZ6006E), but I'm not sure.  The older gasket has gaps in the sealing material that correspond with the slots in the block between the cylinders, the new one doesn't.   Given the situation, I'm considering replacing the head gasket with the improved version and installing the CA625+ studs.   I'm wondering if anyone has tried this approach before, and, if so, what were the results? If someone can confirm that the HS7Z-6051-A head gasket is compatible with the original engine block I would appreciate it.   Thanks Pete

Obviously, you have issue sin your transmission, just by your statement.   Did you know what you were buying into?  When you buy a car at auction, who knows what you are really getting.   Did you actually look up those codes: Code P0715   The P0715 code indicates a malfunction in the Input/Turbine Speed Sensor circuit, which can lead to issues like abnormal transmission operation and decreased fuel economy. It is important to diagnose the underlying cause, which may include a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or problems with the torque converter.   Code P0740 The P0740 code indicates a "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction," which can cause shifting issues, stalling, or reduced fuel economy. It's often due to low or contaminated transmission fluid, a faulty solenoid, or wiring problems.   Find yourself a good transmission tech.  This looks expensive

That depends.  Is your car overheating?  No, then save your money.   Today's engines are better designed than they were in your Pappy's days.  They are designed to work with specific parameters for optimum performance , with engine temps being just one of them.   The FMIC will lower the intake charge into the engine, as compared to the OEM FMIC.   Given all the questions you have been asking recently on engine upgrades, I don't think you have thought this whole thing through very clearly. FIRST THING:  You should come up with a clear goal of what you want, and set a budget.   Before you go hog wild buying parts, make your wish list and figure out how many thousands of dollars you are looking at putting into this project. Spending more money than you need to is money out the window.  Greater power is not necessarily equal to the amount of money you spend.

2013 v6 but sounds familiar.    Hard start after fueling was the purge valve for me. Super simple $50 fix.    Have an idle surge and dip every 3 minutes. Steady 600rpm - up to 750 - dip to 400 or lower. No codes. Has just stalled out a couple times at lights or coasting.    The 3 minute timing just seems so odd.

I will second Unleashed Tuning, Torrie is very helpful and knows his stuff. I only mentioned the octane learning  because it would be great since it is primarily my wife's DD, but she knows to run nothing less than 93, and if not available I can walk her through flashing the 89 tune. As for the pedal question: if you are referencing the "Pedal Commander" or similar OBD plug in devices, hard pass on that. I would not recommend. Any tuner (Unleashed, Livernois) will be the way to go using a proper SCT, BDX etc tuning device is really the only way to go. Unleashed will upgrade the transmission shifting which is a HUGE improvement on it's own. I wouldn't mess with the cats, unless you are racing and need every bit of edge (pun intended), but that would go with big turbo's , full exhaust and fuel system upgrades to say the least.

Is this a daily car or are you planning to race it?   You will not find all that much improvement, however there are multiple ways to make a wheel lighter, just to name two (2): 1.  Use a smaller wheel with a smaller tire 2. Lighter, less material in the wheel to reduce weight.   Unless you are willing to spend some serious cash, buying lighter wheels may also result in wheel damage from pot holes, curbs, etc. that your OEM wheels would easily survive

It's your money so spend it any way you wish, however . . .   The BOV will gain you that whoosh noise you want, but that's all. If you are looking for 400 / 420, then an Unleashed Tune will get you there.  Average numbers are gains of 60 HP / 70 TQ.  I have no idea what the Livernois tune got you as you have not said. An FMIC is a good addition as it will help keep a cooler charge, not more power.   High flow CATS?  If you think those are going to get you big power gains, they won't.  But, they could change your exhaust noise, given a larger exhaust. Bigger turbos?  You won't need those  either to reach your stated goals  ( 400 AWD HP and 420 AWD TQ  )

*bump

Most definitely the EVAP (aka Purge) valve. Very common issue. And not just a Ford thing.  Most commonly rears its ugly head right after filling up, regardless of octane.  If left unchecked, can cause a host of issues, not limited to fuel tank deformation and charcoal canister failure.