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I’m chasing a very intermittent electrical/CMP issue on my 2016 Ford Edge SEL AWD 2.0L EcoBoost. Symptoms: - After driving normally for 10+ miles, the car runs perfectly. - If I park it hot with the hood closed for about 15–30 minutes, the problem appears shortly after restarting, usually within the first 0.5 mile. - When it happens, the wrench light comes on and the engine is severely power-limited, barely going above ~1500 RPM. - Codes have included P0340, P0344, P0365, P0369 and P06A7. I have also seen P025E/P1014 during some events. - The most recent event produced pending P06A7 and P0344, followed by a CEL. I just replaced CMP A with a new Motorcraft DU-103. Interesting test: I drove about 10 miles to my mechanic with no problem. The engine was hot when I arrived. We replaced CMP A with the hood open, and I drove another 10 miles home with no problem. I then parked the car with the hood closed for about 30+ minutes. On the second traffic-light acceleration after restarting, the wrench light came on and the car went into severe limp mode again. This time the only pending codes were P06A7 and P0344. After getting home, I unplugged and reconnected the CMP A connector. The CEL remained on, but the car immediately drove normally again. This makes me suspicious of a heat-sensitive CMP connector/terminal/wiring or a VREF issue rather than the CMP sensor itself. Has anyone seen P06A7 + P0344 on the 2.0L EcoBoost caused by a CMP connector, terminal, wiring, or shared 5V reference issue? Any known harness problem or specific connector/splice I should inspect? I’m also wondering whether an intermittent cooling-fan/relay issue could be contributing to excessive underhood heat soak, although I have not proven that yet. Any diagnostic suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Our 2010 awd limited with 217000km has never had its ptu fluid changed.  Local ford says its for life dont worry.  Everyone else seems to disagree.  I put my big boy pants on and tackled it.  Initially drove the front on ramps.  Crawled under and opened the filler plug.  About 100ml or so fluid ran out.  Oddly it seemed decent,  brown not black but smelly.  Using a suction tool managed to get about 150ml or so out.  Rooted the hose around as best as possible but didnt get much more out.  Then jacked the rear up on stands to be level by the eyeball measurement technique. I pushed the fluid in slowly to let it run down internally.  Kept filling until it puked out on hose removal.  I let it drizzle until it just dripped and replaced the cap. Figure i got about 280 to 300ml back into the PTU. The other 300ml ended up on the floor, my hair and every other place I dont want it.  Used 75w140 Pennzoil synthetic.  Based on others experience did I meaningfully extend Edgeward’s life or tragically cut it short?

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.   The whine can be heard accelerating/decelerating with or without braking.    I might hold-off buying parts until after the next service at which time I'll inspect the driveshaft, change PTU and RDU oils and check the drained oil.   The tires have just under 10K miles on them - P Zeros bought and installed at Costco - I did inspect them and there's no sign of wear let alone cupping etc.

It's been sometime now and I don't remember if this was suggested before, but have you considered they might be coming from the tires? Maybe try rotating them to see if it changes the noise?   If recall correctly, with bad bearings the noises would change on turns when the loads on them shift. 

Have you tried having someone else in the car with you, sitting in the back to see if they hear it louder in the back than you hear it in the front?   If not responding to deceleration, and I am presuming with brake added, then most likely not the brakes.   Another possibility:  Could the whining / humming noise be coming from the driveshaft bearings?

I've held off buying parts to address this whining/humming noise because I'm unsure of what's actually causing it.   Well, its got worse and it's loudest between 40 and 60 mph and doesn't respond to acceleration or deceleration so I'm leaning towards it being a wheel bearing, and I'm not sure if its front or rear.   I'm thinking of getting four of the SKF BR931101 for around $100 each on RockAuto in the hope that will cure the irritating noise - or wait until it gets a lot worse making it more evident.

I vacuumed out my PTU fluid as my PTU does not have a drain plug.   I got ( most likely ) all of the old fluid out.  When vacuuming, you have to move the vacuum hose around into the corners to get it all. I actually was able to put more fluid in than I took out by a small amount.  

You need to better describe " hitting hard ".  What does that mean to you?   A better understanding of what you are actually feeling can help get you a better answer. Are you hearing a bump? Do you feel you the car is bottoming out on the bump stops? Does it sound like something is loose / clanging?   Please update so you can get better help.

My 2018 Edge Sport has 135,000 miles on it.  Rear struts replaced with Monroe about 16 months ago.  Didn’t fix the problem of hitting hard on road creases or on parking lot/driveway curb entrances.  It rides fine otherwise, it’s just those creases that sounds and feels like metal on metal.  I’ve had it on the lift, repair man doesn’t see anything wrong.  Ford wants $200 to inspect it.  Sway bars? Control arm?  Anything to look at specifically? 

People should look on ebay (though I just got screwed by ebay on a return shipping scam).  There are multiple sellers selling this same part for 1/2 the price with the heat shield and the drain plug.  It worked well in mine.   Probably would last 100k.  The original lasted till 168.   I did the entire firewall refill setup, would be easy to service.  Bought a measuring injector (plastic).  Measured what came out, then put that back in, did not have to mess with filling it under the car.