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can any one help me figure out how to update the vin? top photo is new working c-cm from a mkx. second smaller photo is my oem c-cm module. my vin is  2FMTK4AP3FBC40639   5LMTJ3DH5HUL21198 this is the mkx vin  the new module is EJ7T-9G768-AF as ford says this is the new updated version. now that i know this is from a mkx i may have to install different calibration. wanna make sure i have the hex changes in correctly before trying to spend money to get the calibration updated for the ford edge. 

Thank you for the information.

After all this time I swapped out the FCIM on Saturday and programmed it in using the values from the previous one. Now I need some hot weather again to test it; too bad the forecast is for rain this week.   After taking inspiration from here: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/fcim-failure-537044/ I also checked all the lights and the connections on the liftgate as best as I could/know how but did not find anything.   We'll wait and see what happens.

Calipers, Rotors, Pads, etc. are the same on an Edge ST with 21" wheels or 20" wheels so there will be no issues.

Something seemed off last trip. My giant cup no longer required being pushed into the cup holder, and it wobbled.   Come to find out the bottom on the front of was sagging, the fingers pushed out, and the rear one was lose and the rubber bottom had the tab out of reach between the pieces. Driving through dust storms and living in the desert these piano black panels are terrible looking in a day.   So after pulling out the side trim of the center console, pulling up on the center console at the rear and front, and disconnecting the auto Stop/Start button, removed the cup holder section from the console. The sonic welded spots had all broken. elastic/silicone/rubber band that provides the resistance for the fingers that grip your cup(s) I just used a 2 part epoxy after roughing up the surfaces. I have the feeling I will be doing this again soon, I am going to get POM rivets for that now that I see what I am up against. Yes, I forgot to install the band before putting the bottom back on, so I had to get creative with it. These are $25 from online Ford dealers, so if I screw up too bad next time I will just buy a new one. But the posts and welds are pretty bad.

There won't be any issues ashe brakes are similar.

Made a little more progress today, but I had a set back that prevented me from finishing.   As some of you may know, the fuse panel under the dash is in a miserable spot and accessing it is a PITA.  There are three major wire harnesses attached to it.  Well, in my efforts to check and test for switched and constant power, I managed to loosen the latch lock to the middle harness and my issues eventually began.  The key fobs stopped working, the car went into battery protection mode, the car wouldn’t go into accessory mode or power on/engine off mode, let alone start.  I was beside myself.  I had to call my daughter to come get me and go get my battery charger and scan tool.  After doing my due diligence, I called a knowledgeable friend who walked me through a couple of things, one of which was checking a certain fuse in the panel, and that was when I discovered the loose connector.  The scan tool told me communication was lost to the BCM and the push to start button was stuck ON.  Couple that with everything else, and no flashers or horn, it was frustrating.  I snapped that connector back it and secured it and everything came back to life like it should.   Note to anyone going into that fuse panel under the dash… be mindful of those harnesses and double check they are secured properly before you call a tow truck.   I have signal wires hooked up, the power harness for the LOC ready to be plugged in, and power, ground and remote for the amp ready to be cut to size and plugged in.  Sub wires are also ran and ready to be plugged.  Last is the amp fuse.  Realistically, this is an hour or two of work and it will be running.  Hopefully there will be no more set backs or being pulled away to do something else and. It being able to get back to it.

If the amp and LOC prove to be an issue, I will move them to the cargo area.  I have installed amps under the seats of a 2014 Impala I once owned and never had any problems.  We shall see, good to know regardless.

Does anyone have experience with replacing a ST OEM 21" wheel (without the brake performance package) with a ST OEM 20" wheel?  Are there any clearance issues with brake components? Thanks for any input.

Tires and rims look great!! I always wanted to put a set of off-roaders on my 2011 but it was FWD.  My 2022 AWD ST-Line will soon be sporting a nice new set of Falken Wildpeaks.