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  • Popular Contributors

  • Posts

    • I know this is old, but just seen it. The circle with the letters GPS and a line through it means SYNC has lost communication with the GPS satellites.   Several possibilities include:   1. The car is in a area blocking the signal (garage, tunnel, dense tree canopies, etc. (Try again making certain your car has a clear view of the sky.) 2. There was a electronic crash or a corrupted software update. (Try a soft reset. Press and hold the Audio Power button and the Seek Right / Fast Forward button (→) at the exact same time. Hold down for 10 seconds until the screen goes completely black. Release the buttons and the system will reboot. It will show the Ford logo and reestablish a satellite handshake.) 3. The privacy settings in your car's menu may have accidentally toggled the GPS location permissions to "Off". (Try a software refresh. On your screen tap "Settings". Tap "FordPass Connect" and then "Connectivity Settings" {or just Connectivity if your SYNC doesn't have FordPass.} Locate the "Location" slider and turn it Of. Wait ait 10 seconds then turn it back On.)   If after you follow the above fixes and the crossed-out GPS icon, it means there is probably a hardware issue.   Couple of possibilities inclue: 1. The GPS antenna failed (or the blue coaxial wire has come loose under the dashboard.) 2. Or the APIM is failing.    
    • 1. Summer air is better because it makes your tires look sexier. 2. Winter air causes tire shrinkage on hot payment. 3. Winter air makes your tires look like blocks of ice. Summer air gives them that sleek, curvy look that makes all the other cars in the parking lot "jealous." 4. Winter air is way too heavy in the warm months, and creates massive rolling resistance. Premium summer air is lighter and molecularly "streamlined." It makes the tires roll noticeably smoother. It improves fuel economy by at least five miles per gallon. (Summer air literally pays for itself in gas savings.) 5. Summer air catches the light summer breezes and helps the tires to roll faster.   Of course y'all know all this, just "preaching to the choir."   .
    • Unfortunately, I can only hear the idle video but it sounds really nice.  The drive by video it keeps telling me to sign into microsoft, but I don't do microsoft anymore.   And, you are right.  Local muffler shops, if you find a good one, are better priced than named local shops ( ie; Midas for one, ) you get a better price and a much better install.
    • At one point Roush made some very nice tips that they sold separately. They were supposed to fit a mustang but my local shop said they would fit. My best advice would be to have a local muffler shop do the work. I think I paid $200-$300 for the work. Plus its all welded up and is very nice. It has the MRT mufflers and the xpipe was one that the local muffler shop made. Ask a shop you may be surprised on how affordable it may be.      
    • Is Summer air more expensive than Winter, Spring or Fall air?  
    • Change brake fluid, engine air filter, cabin air filter, spare tire pressure, pwr steering fluid, coolant, replace air in tires with summer air, check blinker fluid, etc. 
    • I may have found the fix in the F150 forum, where they have seen simular problems.   The cause of the problem is most likely a failing Transmission Range Sensor.   When your Edge reaches operating temperature, heat expansion causes an electrical open circuit or glitch inside the sensor. The TRS completely loses track of what gear the car is in, which triggers all three of your symptoms simultaneously.   The symptoms may feel like they are separate issues, but they are all tied to this particular sensor.   The PCM uses the signal from  the TRS to know which gear is selected.  Because the PCM is getting blank or corrupted data from the TRS, it cannot output a gear position (P, R, N, D, S) to the digital instrument cluster.   Also, when the TRS signal drops out while you're driving, the PCM gets confused and drops hydraulic pressure which causes the transmission to slip out of gear. If the TRS starts working again, it generates a signal the the PCM and the PCM will attempt to re-engage the transmission. This will cause  lurching).   The reason the rear camera activates is when the TRS is corrupted, its outputting a false reverse gear signal, which causes the BCM to believe that the transmission is in reverse;  and turn on the backup camera display.   The reason the dealer didn't find any codes is probably due to, when the 6F50/6F55 TRS faults, is usually doesn't set a "permanent" code, such as a  P0705 or similar. The code it dies set, is reset when you cycle the key. By the time you drive it to the dealer and they scan it, the system doesn't retain a code.   Since the dealer cannot reproduce it, you need to alert them to this possibility and tell them that you suspect an intermittent internal "Transmission Range Sensor / Leadframe" fault that occurs only at operating temperature.   The technician will need to drive the car with a factory scan tool hooked up, specifically monitoring the "TR_D" (Transmission Range Desired) and "TR_A" (Transmission Range Actual) PIDs. They'll watch for the signal to drop or turn to eith Fault or Unknown when the vehicle gets hot. (Make certain when you take it in you have a full tank of gas as it may have to be driven many miles before the test begins. Or before the module faults.)   You can also record a video the next time this happens. Showing this video to the  service manager bypasses the "cannot reproduce" problem.   .  
    • Did you start at the OBD-II port and follow the harness back? 
    • My guess is the whirring sound you are hearing is probably  coming from the car's ABS pump.   When your car sits for a while,  the hydraulic pressure inside the ABS system slowly bleeds down. When you get in and press the brake pedal, (even if the car is not runnung), this triggers the ABS control module to wake up, run a self-test and prime the system.   The 5-second whirring you hear is the internal electric pump motor building hydraulic pressure. Taking your foot off the pedal cuts the electrical circuit, stopping the pump.
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