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2019 Edge isn't going anywhere, except vacations.   Tried to get some pictures of the flipping of green to gray, but it is just green.  

I have a 2024 ST and just hit 11000 miles. I am planning on the the PTU and RDU at 15000 just to be safe. I am going to used Redline full synthetic because of all the good reviews it gets.  75W85 GL-5 for the PTU and MT-LV 70/75W GL-4 for the RDU.   

Nice car.   Time to update your profile signature.

My 3.5 powered Fusion Sport had the water pump let go at 159,000 miles, and filled the crankcase up with coolant and over heated, it a very short period of time. Not sure if it is fixable for reasonable or not.   So I went to look at an MKZ (and they had 2 MKX's that I wanted to check out as well). Not many of them around, and the 2017+ with the 3.0TT are pricy when they come up.   So I looked at 2013-2016 with the 2.0 (also available with the 3.7, no thanks).   This 2016 MKZ Reserve with the Technology Package and moon roof fit what I was looking for and price. I didn't want a moon roof because of how much head room they take, but not bad. Still warming up to the color, Guard Metallic with Cappuccino interior. 95,000 miles.   It is missing some things from my 2019 Edge SEL, like stop and go cruise (it has adaptive cruise, but at 12 mph it turns off) and lane centering. But it has a lot more options. Reserve includes: Ambient Lighting HD Radio™ Accent Light (in Headlamps) Electrochromic Exterior Driver Side View Mirror PowerFold® Side View Mirrors Daytime Running Lamps – Configurable Power Tilt/Telescope Steering Column Leather Seating Navigation with voice recognition Blind Spot Information System w/Cross-Traffic Alert Power Decklid with Soft Close Cooled Leather Driver and Front-Passenger Seats Heated Steering Wheel Heated Rear-Seats 110 V Powerpoint Embedded Modem And the tech package adds: Adaptive Cruise Control and Collision Warning with Brake Support Active Park Assist Lane Keeping System Forward Sensing System Auto High Beams Rain-Sensing Wipers   Already swapped SYNC 2 to SYNC 3, the 3G TCU to a 4G TCU, the spark plugs, air and cabin filter. Next up is coolant and transmission fluid, cleaning up some chips and the exhaust bezels (like the Edge ST, part of the bumper).

An old trick was to paint the link or tooth at each timing mark. Now you know how many links/teeth between cam marks ( used to have to align the distributor/oil pump also)and pre-mark the new chain/belt.

Having a V6 3.5 liters in your Edge you will be faced with a water pump malfunction sooner than later...I would say by 150000 miles at the most....if you are a good amateur mechanic (you have patience, attention to detail and dexterity) it is an "easy" job to do with leaving the engine in car.  There are plenty of youtube videos on it.  Here are my pointers:   - The power steering pump can be removed by unbolting its 3 bolts without doing a subframe unbolting....you need medium hands at the most and lots of patience and be able to work by feel, blindly.  There is a video on that on youtube.   - Having a good jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan....you have to lower the engine to remove a long bolt...a jack that would allow to make very slow lowering is reassuring in order to not let the engine lower fast and put pressure of the other engine mounts or have the ac compressor hits the frame.   - Removing the fender helps when you are leaning to handle parts in the front engine area.  Removing the power steering reservoir as well as the coolant and windshield fluid reservoirs helps for space when handling the timing chain cover removal and install (named also front engine cover).   - Be attentive to the timing with the RH cam dot at 11 o'clock, the LH cam dot at 1 o'clock and the crankshaft dot at 4 o'clock.  One trick I did to re-assure me was to pause a video where the timing was said to be correct and take picture of the camshafts and compare cams position with mine.  Also make sure cylinder #1 was at TDC by sticking a long shaft in the spark plug hole and rotating the crankshaft.  Have a camshaft locking tool to have peace of mind that camshafts are not moving once the timing chains are being removed and while they are removed.   - It is a no-brainer to change everything while you are at it: timing chains, tensioners, chain guides, even oil pump.  A high volume oil pump is probably not a bad idea.  I did not go as far as phasers except for their bolts.    

Changed the cabin air filter and engine air filter today. Old ones had been in for almost exactly 2 years. (Thats 16 years, in car years..... )   Took around 4 minutes for the cabin air filter, and around 10 minutes for the engine air filter.   Had a hell of a time getting the air box clips back on. Became a test of willpower. Almost had the back clip on and it decided to pop off and fall under the car where I couldn't reach it easily. Finally retrieved it with a grabber and we had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that using boot camp language. It still resisted until I got a pair of large plyers and humiliated it.    ... snort.   Finished up by printing labels with the date and sticking on filter covers (cause I can't remember shit about when I do maintenance.)    [  filter changed. ] [  04/16/2026.     ]

If you can lift the rear hatch open manually and it stays open, the struts are good.   If it's really heavy, or doesn't stay open after you lift it full open position, the struts are bad. (The struts are responsible to provide the main lifting force. If they fail, the motor will sense the overload and stop any attempt to life the hatch.)   If after you initiate an open procedure, you hear it unlock and hear the motor try, it may be the body control module may be out if sync. (If may actually forget how to open after unlocking.) To fix this possibility, disconnect the negative vehicle battery cable, and step on the break pedal for 30 seconds (drains the residual currents from the capacitors in the modules.) Leave the battery disconnected for another 10 minutes. The body control module will reset.    If after the latch unlocks but you hear no motor, its possible the fuse has blown. Think it's #7 in the fuse panel located in your engine compartment. (2013 Edge). If ok, then suspect the liftgate motor itself; or a wiring problem. The most likely location of a wiring break is the yellow wire that located in the rubber boot that connects the body to the hatch.   

I recorded a video yesterday but haven't posted it, yet.   We have owned this car for 11 years and and my wife hasn't noticed a problem with rain water until last year. I am thinking that a seal finally cracked.   After taking out the wheelwell, yesterday, I am starting to think that this car was in an accident prior to us owning it.    Hint of an accident #1. I noticed that there wasn't any sound deadening foam in the fender. That is usually standard from the factory. The passenger side has it.    Hint #2: After referring to ford's crowl parts, it seems like it is missing a couple of parts. However, it doesn't list a hose in the schematic. Perhaps, it is part of the fender piece, which is the one on the bottom right in the pic below.   It is likely that the person that fixed it didn't bother to replace the hose or the other 2 missing parts.   Going to go up to a local ford dealership to talk to them about ordering these parts for me. They might share some insight on the hose.    

If the door latch clicks open, can you raise the door by hand?   If yes, then your rear hatch motor may have failed, or you have a short somewhere in the power line.