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Probably not the issue, but something to think about or get ideas. There was a TSB for the 2013-2015 FWD 3.5 EcoBoost (link) that fixed the smoking with changing the PCV cover adapter. 

I posted here back in January. A handful of us have chatted within here, on other FB groups etc.  Something we all reported on was it was more apparent on consuming when the vehicle was idling or remote started.  I did 3 rounds of oil consumption tests paid for by the dealer. I noticed that the one time the vehicle lost half a quart, within a 1000 mile span. Otherwise everything was in spec on oil consumption. After tons of analysis and paying attention to when sometime the blue/white smoke is visible I noticed when the vehicle idles for say 30 mins. I can drive parking lot speeds and get some nice smoke, the smoke doesn't linger to bad, and is certainly not thick or alarming. I believe its a turbo pooling the oil then burning it. Why it's so intermittent I couldn't tell you. I reduced my idling and remote starts and haven't noticed the issue. Removed the catch-can just in case, no change, replaced the PCV valve, no change.  I've ruled out the easy things, a TSB exists for a turbo oil supply line for f150, been considering replacing my line but havent looked deep into it to see if the part changed at all for the Edge  

I think there have been discussions of paddle shifters working in D on this forum somewhere, but still, I agree that Ford likes to make things more complicated and obscure than you would expect for a car manufacturer of this size. 

Ford still does this today. They write features in the owners manual, but they don't actually exist in the vehicle. This can be seen in the 2019-2024 Edge owners manual with auto hold and the vehicle distance indicator. The solution to auto hold is that you need a FCIM with the auto hold button. The solution to the distance indication is a simple AsBuilt change. Because the feature is listed in the owners manual and found on the explorer sport, there is a very high chance that you can get it to work.

Hi Caden, thanks for the update. I did the same thing as you described - there are three pins missing in the connector that plugs into clockspring. And then you need to add wires from the clockspring to  etiher the shifter connector (which we did) or elsewhere down the line towards the PCM. However, I believe there should be a live in drive feature for the Edge sport with the 3.7 engine. At least the 2011 Ford Edge owners manual (https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/11edgog3e.pdf) indicates so on page 257: "Temporary manual control is provided when pulling the paddles with the gearshift in the D (Drive) position." The PCM for 3.5 and 3.7 should be the same hardware wise, however, there may be differences in software which I have not been able to identify. The wiring diagrams are identical for the 3.5 and 3.7 versions, with different parts of wiring being actually installed - shifter knob +- button vs the paddle shifters. The same exact pins on the PCM are used for up and downshifts for both versions of the engine, which leads me to believe that the only difference is in the software between the two and that this difference enables the live in drive feature. The sport version has the paddle shifters active in both the D and M gears. I spoke to HP tuners and they (about a year ago) did not have this feature tracked down and enabled for modification in their software, only for the turbocharged versions of the engine, which uses a different PCM (e.g in Ford Explorer Sport). Vlad

What I had to do was add pins and wires to the clock spring connector harness, then ran those wires to the respective ones on the floor shifter, the 2011-2014 didn’t come with live in drive if it had sport or manual mode that I know of so its just a matter of wiring it into the select shift wires in the floor as they can only send a signal in sport or manual! I did have a tech look in the pcm for it and there is no toggle for live in drive in the PCM. 

Could you elaborate on what are you trying to achieve? what youtube videos?

If you have the liquid cooled ptu you can remove the nuts and pry the cooler way from the ptu about 1/2 inch and drain the fluid. If you have the non-cooled ptu you could remove the cap where the cooler would be.

His would be the 2.7L V6 Twin Turbo.   I did my serpentine belt kit (belt, idler and tensioner) at 103K miles and would say that 100K miles is a good interval for this.

Update! A month or so ago, I was passing some trucks on the freeway, on boost, when the boost went away, the 'wrench' light came on, and cruise control would not work.  Got off the freeway, stopped for some coffee and on startup, the wrench went away, but the Check Engine Light (CEL) was on, and still no power or cruise control.    Forscan was showing me two codes, P0243 and P0299.  Both related to the turbocharger wastegate.    Okay, back to Ford service who, on two previous visits, gave me the 'no codes, no problem' blowoff and said something to the tune of, 'It's running normally'.  So now they acknowledge a problem with the 'wastegate solenoid', order a new part, and schedule the install.  They wouldn't give me the old part, but said I could look at it in the parts department.  So I did, and it did not look like any of the pictures I had seen of the vacuum based system everybody shows for the 2020 Edge.  I was p*ssed they just pulled something off the shelf to make the idiot customer go away.  But when I got home and looked under the car, sure enough there was a new version of the part they showed me at the dealer.  An electric motor version that looks like the 'control solenoid' is built in.  Researching that, it appears the wastegate controller on my engine is the same as that used on the 2021+ Lincoln Nautilus.  The build date on my car is December 2020, and the Edge and Nautilus are (were) built on the same assembly line, so it makes some sense there might have been some parts sharing, especially since that was the Covid era.   In the meantime, my brother, who bought an F-150 twin turbo brand new a few years back noticed some surging within a few days of taking delivery.  He took it back and the service manager said, 'no codes no problem', but he also said to try premium fuel, regardless of Ford and the manual saying it could handle the 87 octane bilge water.  He did that and the problem disappeared.   I did that too.  I am now running Tier 1 premium fuel, and with the wastegate fix, my car is running so good I am almost afraid to mention it, fearing I might jinx things.  Everything is better, the engine is smoother, even the transmission and its' goofy shift points and lockup strategy seems happier.  This is the car I was hoping for. Haven't checked the mileage yet.     Wish I could say which one of the changes did the trick, but I was desperate and the timing worked out that two things got changed more or less at the same time.     Next step is to scan things again myself to see if I can spot anything interesting.  But for now, this thing sure is fun to drive.   Good luck to you all