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By jumpsteady · Posted
I got this notice as well for my 2015 Edge. It just so happens that the check engine light has periodically come on and off and am getting codes P2196 and P2198. Could this be a new Mass Air Flow Sensor or a new vapor canister purge valve is needed? Or could reprogramming the power control module possible fix this check engine light coming on? Any thoughts on this? -
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Legal Towing capacity is 1500lb no matter what brand or who installs it. Only way to legally increase capacity is to buy a different Edge that came from the factory with tow package.
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Awesome!!! Thank you!! So I'm thinking of going to a location on base here and seeing if they can bleed off the refrigerant for me. I can do that and drive it back home without damage to the compressor right? The compressor should failsafe seeing there's no refrigerant and not engage? Really don't want to buy an AC compressor. I'll have them recharge it when I'm done. Haz, I'll look over all the docs and make sure I get everything. Thinking through all this, would it be a problem going with the 210A alternator in place of the 175A? I would think that the car will only draw what it needs as it needs it. So that will be a cakewalk for accessories. Just trying to make sure there is not going to be any issue. I at first was wanting to make sure I got all the facts, now I'm wanting to see if I can facilitate the bigger alternator. One more quick question... So, the guy in that Ford Fusion video said the tensioner pulley bolt was reverse threaded, aka, righty-tighty actually loosened tension...is that the case or no? All this and now, I need to replace the brakes because they are grinding..... I need beer... Woohoo carworking weekend is coming!!! Seriously, if anyone wants to bring their Edge over and help me do all this and then I'll help them with work they have, we'll make a party of it!!
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17 2.0l here at 81500miles (bought new with 12miles) No issues and I tend to drive it hard. I see the complaints on the 2.0l but have not seen this on mine. Avoided the flywheel issue also. Had it checked when recall came out and tech found no issues. Contemplated trading it but passed on it and no regrets. The only real issue I have is what to replace it with if I loose it due to accident.
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It's now 2024, so I'm posting for future purchasers. I know it depends and can be anecdotal on which is better but now since a lot of time has passed since the 2.0 Ecoboosts have been out..I see nothing but issues posted about the 2.0. sure, the 3.5 duratec has it own issues, just going off of what I've seen. Most now say to stay away from the Ecoboost.
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Those are such valuable suggestions. I appreciate you responding to this post. I would probably be contacting some companies tomorrow to see what kind of rates they do give In one other comment, you mentioned that if I do an aftermarket installation, it would be 1,500 lb Max. In a case that I do go with factory installation, how much more weight can I carry? As for the self installation, I am kind of a DIY kind of a guy but the problem is that I have very limited time remaining and I need to move from Virginia to Ontario and I would rather pay someone to get the job done. Also, if I do the job I might do a much poorer job than some professional doing it.
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Without the factory tow package, your vehicle can pull a max of 1500 pounds. The smallest enclosed UHaul trailer is 850 pounds (4x8) so that means 650 pounds properly packed cargo (so that you have ~150 pound tongue weight). The smallest 4x7 utility trailer weighs 630 pounds, so 870 pounds load. Dealer installing it doesn't make it have tow package. Looking at the price it is likely the hitch that requires trimming of the rear fascia, but it also won't hang down lower than the bumper for a cleaner look. I don't think any aftermarket ones do that. Seems pricy to me, but I would do the work myself (I haven't installed a hitch yet on my 2019, but I have installed them on my Escape and Grand Marquis in the past) and possibly would spring for the through rear fascia one to look a little cleaner. Much cheaper ones are available aftermarket, and saving $750 by going with a different brand and installer seems like a no brainer, They install a lot of hitches, I guess you could get a bad installer, but these are all no drill, drop the fascia and muffler installs, less than an hour.
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I bought a used 2020 Edge SEL back in Sept. All good. After about a month I got a low tire pressure warning. Left rear. I aired it up and lasted another 2 to 3 weeks then low pressure warning again. So I started checking it more often(before a low warning alert). It has a slow leak. Well I finally removed the wheel/tire today to inspect for any punctures. Nothing in the treads I could find. So sprayed soapy solution all around the bead, both sides. Nothing. Checked valve stem needle....nothing. Turns out it's the rubber valve stem itself where it's mounted into the rim/wheel. I'm in my mid 60's and this is the first time I have seen a valve stem leaking like this. I was able to wiggle the rubber slightly and seem to stop the bubbling momentarily. Am I to assume about the only way to fix this is to take it to a tire shop for a new valve stem insert? The tires appear to be the factory tires. 47000 miles.
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Hey! Sorry for the delay, I forgot to update here. At the dealer, I got the same blank stare I always get when I ask a tech question. And then they tried to sell me an engine oil filter. Sigh... What I found online was SSM 47948. Google it, you will find it is a Ford service message to dealers instructing them to replace the turbo oil line screen any time turbo work is done. MacT did a video here:
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